Hi all, I just got my Shrockworks front bumper and have it almost completely installed. I rigged up a suspension system to the ceiling in my garage to suspend the bumper so I could install it without help and it's worked out great!

But I do have one issue with the turn signals that were included - they flash really fast, which I thought was the indication that there's a problem. All my vehicle's indicators illuminate correctly when the the turn signal is on and I wired it per the instructions (black to white, red to blue/yellow (passenger/driver).

What's weird is that when I put on the caution triangle, they flash at the normal speed. Does anyone else's indicators from Shrockworks flash at the wrong speed? Is that normal, did I do something wrong, or is the resistance wrong on the Hella lights?

mine did the same thing. To fix it I just changed which prongs I connected the wiring to on the turn signal. I think there were 3 prongs so you only have a couple of options. If this explanation doesn't make sense let me know and i'll go into more detail.

Sorry I don't have any answers to your question but can you offer any advice on things to look out for? Mine is probably going to be here in a couple of weeks and I will be installing it as well. Please advise.

I did get the pieces above the lights sent over early and have already had them painted at the body shop, so at least that is done and should be cool.

Thanks

mY QUESTION IS HOW DOES THE FRONT END HANDLE THE EXTRA WIGHT CONSIDERING THE NOSE DIE WHEN STOCK?
















My question is how does the front end handle the extra weight considering the nose dive when stock?













My question

Sorry for the caps. Did not know I hit that key.

I'm sure there are others who know much more than me, but some tips off the top of my head would be:

Edit: In hindsight, let me add a disclaimer. I take no responsibility for doing this. If you do not understand the safety risks involved in doing this incorrectly please do not try it.

1) Rig up a ratcheting lift system in your garage. Having my bumper suspended in the air in front of the truck made it so easy. I used some ratcheting tie downs I had to keep the bumper aligned while it was suspended and I can pull my vehicle right up into where it needs to mount. Once I saw how unwieldy the bumper was, I bought from Home Depot a $30 ratcheting cable pull rated for 1 ton, an D shaped ring rated at 3600 pounds (found in the automotive end cap- couldn't find anything heavy duty where the eye hooks or garage ceiling hangers were - and I think it was designed for being mounted in the bed of a truck, but it was the strongest looking mount point in the store) and a couple bolts and lock washers so I could mount the setup to a ceiling joist.

2) Figure out all the bolts/washers/nuts before proceeding. The directions really lack diagramming of the included hardware which for me slowed everything down because I was afraid I would use the wrong part too early and have to disassemble to get it back.

3) Be very very careful when moving the power steering line - if you don't have the proper tool you really can kink that line easily and make a headache for yourself.

4) The directions aren't always very good. Example: the directions I received state to use a bolt with a 10mm head to hold each support tab for the 2 paint-able upper pieces. However, the tab has a huge hole, so you need to use a washer, but of course since the parts aren't well accounted for on each step of the directions, it's hard to tell which washers might need to be used where. If you're simply following the directions you will have loose parts rattling around.


There isn't a lot that you can really mess up if you think about what each part is supposed to do. Getting the stock aluminum bumper off proved to be the hardest physical task. I had make a 4 foot breaker bar to get the bolts off. Before that everything I did was just rounding the heads off and they wouldn't budge. My 4Runner has seen a lot of water and mud though, so the bolts were in bad shape.

Same thing happened to me. This fixed the hyper-blink.

How difficult was it to adjust te gap for flex between the bumper and the areas below the lights? I heard it was a tough one to get just right.

Thanks! I got it figured out. The black connection goes on the shorter stub, the other wire can go on either of the 2 remaining points. Then the indicators flash at the normal speed.

I mounted the bumper first to figure out how much clearance I would have then went back. I wanted 5/8" above the deck of the bumper, so I once I saw what that looked like it was easy. Having the bumper suspended in the air helped with this.

Perfect timing on this thread. I'm going to be installing the Shrockworks bumper this Tuesday on my 4R and this is going to help out a lot. Hopefully SW didn't forget to ship the hardware with the bumper. I've heard that happening to a few people.

I never had any issues with the mounting. I also didnt have any issues with the fitment and making sure it was right. The bumper I got was tight enough on the mount brackets that with just a little wiggle from the shop monkeys (myself and best friend) it worked out good.

My only suggestion is....if you are mounting a winch to go with it....go to your local ace hardware store now and buy longer bolts, because the shrockworks ones are not long enough to fit through a fairlead, the bumper, and the winch.

I have so much extra hardware, I'm still wondering what I missed.



My winch came with 4 regular bolts and 2 bolts 1/4" longer in a separate bag with a warning label that said not to use them unless you're mounting them with a fairlead. They were the perfect length to go through the Shrockworks aluminum fairlead, the bumper and into the winch.

thanks for the tips!

definitely good advice, I needed longer bolts as well...