There is a ton of questions about suspensions systems and what people should get to run what tires. I put together this bit of information more as a beginning for people just starting out in the suspension modification game. Hopefully this can help end some of the threads that get started everyday then get a "use the search function" put in them.
First you need to identify what suspension system you have.
Regular:
What I’ll call regular for lack of a better word, comes with “regular” shocks and springs. It’s a coil-spring independent double-wishbone front suspension with stabilizer bar in the front and a coil-spring 4 link with lateral rod rear suspension with stabilizer bar in the rear.
XREAS:
You can identify this by looking at all the shocks, they will have a hose coming off of it. This is a full system dependent on each corner, shocks are cross-linked creating a X pattern, thus the name. More information here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/perfor...uspension.html
K.D.S.S.: from Harper7 via the service manual.
In the KDSS (Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System), a cylinder is installed to each of the front and rear stabilizer bars. The front and rear cylinder upper chambers and the front and rear lower chambers are each connected by a pipe. The hydraulic circuit is filled with high-pressure suspension fluid. The stabilizer control ECU controls the stabilizer control solenoid valves according to input signals from sensor.More info and links here:
Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and see post #2 from Harper7
You can have a combination of K.D.S.S. with either “regular” or XREAS, or you can have XREAS or K.D.S.S. separately. If you have XREAS and want to keep it you are limited to the spacer lifts.
I’ll start with cheapest to most expensive on the lifts.
Spacers Addition Lifts: - these either go on top of the coil-spring and under the mounting plate or are top mounted.* The general consensus in that the ones 2” or below are better under the mounting plate and the ones 1” or below are ok on the top. You can combine them by using a 2” under spacer with a 1” top spacer to obtain a 3” lift. Some people use these to get rid of a the factory rake or just to help with the driver’s side lean.
Daystar – 1”, 2.5”, *3” in the front, and 1.5” in the rear . Typical kit is 2.5”/1.5” and can be bought all over the place including Amazon.com
Toytec – ¼”, ½”, 2”, 2.5”, 3” in the front, and 1.5” in the rear
Kit with front 3“ spacers and Rear 1.5” spacers:
3" lift / leveling kit for FJ and 03 up 4Runner - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
Kit with front 3” spacers and Rear 2” superflex springs:
BEST SELLER! 3" FJ Lift Kit w/spacers and rear ToyTec coils - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
There are countless people on eBay and on the internet that sell lifts similar to these.
Suspension Replacement Lifts: These are the “best” and most expensive lift kits.
ARB Old Man Emu lift kits – a lot of times sold as light or heavy, but can be pieced together to create a more custom style pending on what the actual needs are or what you want.
Front – lifts include #90010 strut and either 884,885,887 springs
884 – use with stock weight – no bumper or winch
885 – use with either a bumper or a winch (70-180lbs extra)
887 – use with a bumper and a winch (180-230+ lbs. extra)
Rear – Lifts include #60080 or #60081 rear shock with either 889, 898, 899 springs – buts some also use 895 (15mm shorter than 889) or 895e (25mm shorter than 889)
889 – medium load use #60080
898 – heavy (440lbs extra) use #60080 or #60081
899 – extra heavy (880lbs extra) use #60081
Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit – pretty popular on the forum – has coil over fronts and spring in the back – and it’s all built on a Bilstein 5100 setup. Link:
FJ Cruiser/4Runner Ultimate 3" lift package - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
Radflo Coil-over kits - These can be done all different ways and be custom to how you want them and are completely rebuildable, when you see people talk about OW or OLW or
Overland Warehouse kits that’s what they are talking about. Typical kits are either a 2.0 or 2.5 with 600, 650, 700 lbs spring in the front and 2.0 or 2.5 rear shocks
with a spring in the rear. These aren’t really an out of the box kit anymore with OW out of business, but toytec.com or metaltech4x4.com both can get you set up if Radflo is the way you want to go. Metaltech4x4.com also has a long travel 5th gen running these, so I bet you could do that too if you have the cash.
Icon Vehicle Dynamics Kits – probably the most versed kits for the 5th Gen – they offer “Stage” 1-6 starting at around $1500 to over $5,000. Everything is customizable and you can mix and match to create a custom kit.
Stage 1:
2010 - Current Toyota 4Runner Suspension System - Stage 1 - 53061
Stage 2:
2010 - Current Toyota 4Runner Suspension System - Stage 2 - 53062
Stage 3:
2010 - Current Toyota 4Runner Suspension System - Stage 3 - 53063
Stage 4:
2010 - Current Toyota 4Runner Suspension System - Stage 4 - 53064
Stage 5:
2010 - Current Toyota 4Runner Suspension System - Stage 5
Stage 6:
2010 - Current Toyota 4Runner Suspension System - Stage 6
I’ll also be adding to this soon including info on UCA’s and other lift options – I just ran out of free time for today. I'll try to add pictures and examples of each, also how to install thread links. So don't be hating just yet. Also I did all this from my iPhone so I'll clean it up and shorten the links when I get home.
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