I do recommend the oil filter wrench and drain device if you plan on doing a lot of oil changes. I was too cheap to spring for all three but this $3 funnel from Walmart screws into the oil filler neck. It looks like it’s been slightly redesigned so I no longer guarantee fit.
Hyper Tough Flexible 2 piece automotive funnel, 10717PDQ8HT - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

C'mon. Anyone know if the little metal tab on the filter housing is something that can be purchased? My is missing (not broken off). Must've fallen off since my last oil change. Thx

You don’t need that tab. You torque the oil filter housing to 18 ft-lbs no matter where the tab lines up. The oil filter drain plug gets torqued to 9 ft-lbs.

This is great information - Thank you!

I do not torque that filter cap to 18 ft lbs ... also you have to oil the O ring on the cap ... install the filter cap to a point where the cap is binding then that is it.. if you torque that to 18 ft lbs if will be a problem to remove that cap on the next oil changes . I use the cap socket and I remove all the covers and inspect for all the leaks and drive train fluids ...

strap wrench will break off the metal tab... and crack the plastic fingers...

See the picture. It is worth a thousand words.

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Oil Pipe Discharge.pdf (124.9 KB, 388 views)

Right, it's that cap o-ring that causes most of the friction/resistance when removing once the cap is broke free, especially considering the amount of land that the o-ring needs to slide against when unscrewing -this is one o-ring you absolutely don't want to consider using twice- so it helps -a little- if it's well lubricated.

Good stuff. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see it before I did mine last week.

For some reason, one of the bolts under the drivers side front of the skid plate on mine came off fine, but putting it in I noticed it just spins. So I swamped the bolts and same thing. So either the nut is stripped or my bolt is stripped. I left it out for now.

Wonder if I can get a similar bolt from the Home/Lowes/Depot

Did you try the suspect bolt in another skid plate location? You can also visually determine if the threads are damaged by comparing it to a good one. Most likely the bolt is OK but the nut in the frame was stripped by the dealer. You can probably tap it for a larger bolt diameter size. If you’ve never done this before a good buddy with the tools or mechanic could do it for a small fee.

BTW, Check out this thread for more info:
Front skid plate bolt size?

Yah, I put the bolt on the passenger side front of skid late and it was fine. Actually both bolts were fine on that passenger side.

I'll check out that link thanks!

Thanks for the post. I just performed my first oil change at 920 miles using OE Toyota synthetic oil and filter. At this mileage, I knew it was overkill, but glad I did:
1. Found that the factory had not installed a drain plug gasket. Wasn’t leaking, but HOW does this happen?!?
2. Found tiny metal shavings in the filter and at bottom of housing. The filters job is to prevent these from circulating, but happy to get it cleaned out.
Wanted to pass along for anyone considering early oil change or for a reason to do it yourself.

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Just FYI, the "frame" that the skid plate bolts onto that has the nut is actually a replaceable part that is bolted onto the main vehicle frame. Driver side & passenger side each has one. So if they get stripped out and you want to keep it all OEM you can just those parts.

on our new vehicles and do the first oil change some metal particles will be in the engine ... then it goes into the oil filter. normal ..
On my new GM vehicles, I do the oil change at 1000 miles... then the Toyota engines have the same particles .
I did my Toyota oil change at 3,000 miles new .. then I inspected all the drive train fluids and greased the drive shafts and slip yokes...
I had to change the rear diff gear oil ... looked dark and had particles in it .. 3 yrs later last nov the gear oil looks like new..rear diff has a 1500mile breakin ..then change the rear diff gear oil ..many on the forums had to do it..

...just another voice in the crowd. Mine went smooth and clean. Put a 2' section of vinyl tubing on filter drain valve, straight to waste pan. Used the metal filter cup and taller filter pipe in lieu of OEM plastic cup. Didn't concern myself with metal tab on old cup. Replaced oil pan drain plug with, '
Votex - DP006 Stainless Steel Engine Oil Drain Plug with Neodymium Magnet (M12-1.25) - MADE IN USA' from RocketMan's Amazon site.
Also, as I have on all my oil changes of other vehicles, I pre-filled the filter/cup prior to install. I do this so this is little chance of dry sump first few seconds of re-start. Oil changes now at 5000miles. Synthetic oil- conventional oil, oil is oil and oil gets dirty. Dirty oil is a huge contributing factor to engine wear, so 5000miles is my comfort zone for oil changes. 3500 was my break point for conventional oil. One last item, I bought this 2018 4Runner from a dealership w/21,500miles on it. So who knows if they really did the scheduled maintenance on this prior to sale. I will tell you the oil was black as could be, every bolt I had to bump w/impact, including plastic filter cup. The only easy off item was the filter drain plug. All in all, cleaner and easier than expected.

Thanks for this guide! Changing the oil on my 2020 TRD is 💩. Has anyone managed to do a oil filter relocation mod on their 5gen? I can’t seem to find much guidance on it.