Originally Posted by Axix23

Does anybody just skip the drain valve part and just take out the entire oil filter and drain that and then put it back? I don’t even mess with the small o ring valve bc it’s too tight to get off and the entire oil filter canister moves when you loosen it.

Originally Posted by Axix23

Does anybody just skip the drain valve part and just take out the entire oil filter and drain that and then put it back? I don’t even mess with the small o ring valve bc it’s too tight to get off and the entire oil filter canister moves when you loosen it.

Originally Posted by Axix23

Does anybody just skip the drain valve part and just take out the entire oil filter and drain that and then put it back? I don’t even mess with the small o ring valve bc it’s too tight to get off and the entire oil filter canister moves when you loosen it.

Originally Posted by Bmnorm2

Torque for the drain valve plate is ~ half of the canister torque. Your’s is just over torqued.

10 ft-lbs for drain valve
18 ft-lbs for housing.

Originally Posted by AC Orange

.
Yep, I always do the filter change that way. Not really that messy doing it like that.

Originally Posted by JAXJeremy

Last oil change was done by the dealership under the toyogard plan and I was coming up on needing one. I'd previously purchased the metal filter housing and an EZ flow drain valve and filter, so all I needed was the oil..

The entire process took a bit longer that expected. For one, the tech who installed the plug at the last change must have really cranked down on it, the crush washer was pretty well stuck to the pan. Also, I've got an RCI front skid, so that had to come off to install the EZ flow drain valve..Otherwise, everything went super smooth and will take a fraction of the time on the next change..

Did have a question for anyone who has used the EZ flow valve..They have an o-ring on them instead of a gasket..I didn't put a new gasket on, just cleaned the surface and used the o-ring..no leaks, but wanted to see what other have done..thanks.

Originally Posted by stiles_s

I think I am going to avoid ever having the dealer change the oil. They seem to always damage something while they are in there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Bmnorm2

Torque for the drain valve plate is ~ half of the canister torque. Your’s is just over torqued.

10 ft-lbs for drain valve
18 ft-lbs for housing.

Originally Posted by TheGrinch911

any way to remove the "photo bucket" mark that is obscuring a clear view of the pics?