as the runner ages the plastic cap does move a 1/2inch or so past the tab.

the tab and cap are not a perfect exact location ...
when the cap starts to tighten up then just go past the tab less than 1 inch .. all is good.

oil the O ring is very important .. if not lubed the next oil change will be hard to remove the cap.
I remove all the covers and inspect all the drive train fluids and keep covers off for a few days , because I inspect for any leaks...

the new engine oil spec is now SN PLUS .. so read the back of the oil bottle .. SN is the old spec...use SN PLUS engine much quieter on a cold start up.

Yup mine goes just a little past the tab too. Always has, never any issue.

Definitely put oil on any O rings. I usually run around the block after letting the engine warm up and then button it up if no leaks are detected after an oil change and check the dipstick otherwise.
Tighten to far past the tab and it’s really hard to remove the cover next time it’s due for a change. I always hand tighten my screw on filters and never have had a problem, so I am reluctant to go past the tab.
Lately it’s been the oil drain bolt that’s given me trouble not coming loose, so that O ring has not been replaced for an oil change. Next time I change my oil I will need to see my neighbor to use his vice to remove that piece from the housing.

So I’m thinking of getting the RCI engine skid for ease of oil changes and am wondering if you have access to the drain plug when just replacing the front engine skid. My understanding is that the front skid replaces the two steel pieces and the plastic trim at the front, does it cover the drain plug? How far does it extend?

Just did my 1st oil change on my 2018 SR5 since purchasing it (used). A few things to note:

The plastic front cover only has 5 10mm bolts (plus the center push pin). They must've changed the design since AntMan's model year. The "wings" don't have a bolt or hole.

Also, I replaced the plastic filter housing with a metal one. I did have to swap the center "core" from the original housing into the metal housing. When I reinstalled and torqued the housing & filter, the position tab ended up about 45 degrees past the original position (where it sat with the plastic housing).

And finally, when you insert the plastic drain tool/nipple to drain the filter, you've gotta push it in with purpose! Quick and forceful. If you do it gentle and slow, oil will seep/drip around the edges and make a mess.

Another reason why you don't let dealerships change your oil- I did mine yesterday for the first time at 31,500 miles (bought it at 28,000 miles). The plastic housing was on with probably 40 ft/lbs of force, but the drain plug at the bottom of the housing was probably on with 80 ft/lbs. I had to spin the whole unit off and put it in a vice (tried a wooden vice first, it wouldn't hold it) and the use a breaker bar on the 3/8 wrench to get it to break free. I am guessing they have just pulled the whole thing for the past few oil changes instead of fixing the mistake. I ended up swapping to the metal filter housing while I was at it.

probably used a battery powered gun to do the plug/filter on/off...
my 2016 runner , no problems because I do all the maintenance .

Years after you wrote this, but I appreciate the write up

Jeez, just read through this for the first time, what an absolute ordeal to change the oil on this engine and kind of an unbelievable amount of steps to get there ...makes me really appreciate the ease of the 1GR

Thanks for putting together the detailed DIY


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

It is not bad. Looks harder than it really is. Filter location is the only thing that'll slow you down. Add 15-20 minutes more compared to 4th gen oil change. Don't sweat small things like this.

This kit made changing oil a breeze, not a drop spilled and the filter drain tube is awesome!

Attached Images

 

So I've been referring to this thread every year since I started changing my oil on my 2011 SR5. Today while pulling out the filter housing I noticed that the metal tab is gone. It must've rattled loose somewhere during the past 10k miles. There's nothing wrong with the cover, and I changed the filter and put it back together knowing where to line up the filter housing. But it's my understanding that the tab is meant to hold the housing from moving. Even though I doubt it'll ever move or loosen, does anyone know if just the tab can be purchased? I found the metal replacement housing and stock OEM cover part numbers. Hoping to pick up just the metal tab though.

What is the funnel with the tube for?

My new 4R oil change wasn't messy. Having an oily funnel and tube thing doesn't sound like any fun. I was happy when I got rid of the drill driven pump and hoses I used for my MB when I sold the car. Just a mess.

It's a funnel that locks into the filler tube threads so it doesn't fall over when you start pouring oil.

The funnel screws into the oil filler so you can pour away and not spill a drop.
The tube goes into the oil filter so you can drain it and again, no mess that most get without