I agree, doesn't bother me either. I actually like the canister filter better. I like that I can look at the filter media and make sure there is nothing on it besides oil. With aftermarket skids like the RCI skid, there is a window so you don't have to drop the skid to change the oil. When reaching through the window on the skid to remove that plastic thing from the filter housing, you're all but guaranteed to smash your wrist on the skid when it finally pops out lol. This should alleviate that all together.

So I just changed out my front and rear diff fluids yesterday with only 18K miles and I'm glad I did cause they were both nasty. The rear was the worse, very dark in color almost black with a minimal amount of metallic shavings on the magnet both front and rear. Replaced fluids with Mobile-1 75W-90.

You used Synchromax? That fluid is for manual transmissions and is as thin as 30 wt motor oil. Definitely nowhere near the viscosity of 75 wt gear oil. I'm not doubting it's working for you. How often do you 4 wheel? How easy is it to get in and out of low range? Are you concerned about wear?

It's working fine and I four wheel plenty. It's listed as an equivalent to Toyota LF gear oil by Royal Purple as well as working in transfer cases and I know several others run it. I did this over 1 year ago and have probably 10,000 miles on it now. No problems. You can also use Ravenol MTF-3 synthetic.

Finally got around to changing differential oil, T-case oil, and greased the driveline yesterday. Used Mobil 1 75W-90 in the diffs, and Toyota LF 75W in the T-case.

Everything went smoothly aside from bashing the back of my hand while breaking loose the rear diff fill plug, and accidentally putting the T-case fill washer on the front diff fill plug... caught that mistake after filling the T-case and luckily the aluminum washer wasn’t the least bit deformed after using it on the wrong plug.

Measured the leftover Mobil 1 and Toyota LF oil once I was done, and both were within one ounce of factory fill specs.

Contrary to what some others have found, I was quite surprised about how clean my oil looked, especially given almost 90K miles on it. There was a bit of metal paste on the drain plug magnets, but the clarity of the oil was quite good. The T-case oil essentially looked like the new oil I put in. Diff oil was definitely a different color, but that may be because Mobil 1 75W90 is very light in color. Of course, the condition is simply a guess without a proper UOA!

It seems pretty much everyone finds the transfer case oil is super clean when drained, even with high miles. Unless you have AWD or run in 4WD regularly, your front diff will also be very clear. On a part time 4wd vehicle pretty much all the load is on the rear diff so that oil is going to wear the fastest.

Thank you. I was able to get the bolt off by using a hammer to shock the bolt. Then used pliers and it came right off. Ordered a 6 point socket and bought the new bolt. All set now! Thanks again.

This will be my first time replacing diff fluid and using a washer on it. What is the correct orientation for the copper and silver washers?

Thanks guys!

Okay, so I recently learned about the low rear diff breather on my 4Runner. Having recently gone through some puddles on a trail that were up to the bottom of my doors I decided to do the breather mod and change the rear diff fluid out. Now for the nervous part... I ordered the OEM Toyota LS GL-5 75w 85 from Amazon. I ordered 4 "LITERS" just to be safe (having read the specs as needing just under 3 quarts or 3 liters). Thank God I am OCD when it comes to my rig because I somehow noticed that one of the cans was "LX" not "LS" like the other 3. I think the LX is for transfer case. So I put the 3 liters of LS in after draining the old fluid for about 45 minutes. So it took all 3 liters. Now there was a tiny bit that dripped out but I am not sure if that was from me adjusting the pump hose or if I got it filled all the way like it's supposed to be when some drips out. And it actually took all 3 of the cans so I didn't have any more to pump in to see if it started coming out right away again.
Question is... Is 3 liters enough either way? I mean it has to be pretty darn full even if it wasn't right up to the fill plug right?
I have been driving it for a few days now and it feels and sounds fine. Should I order another can and make sure it's topped off? ($45 per can BTW.) So to open one only to find out it needed one or two pumps to start pouring out would kind of suck, but the peace of mind would be worth it. In the meantime the delivery would take a few days and I need my truck for work every day.
*Is it safe to drive with 3 liters in there?
Other question I just remembered...
The cans I got say Toyota on them and look like the same cans I have seen used in YouTube videos. But they don't say "synthetic" anywhere on them. I'm hoping that Toyota doesn't make a non-synthetic diff oil and so the cans I got are the right ones. So please anyone who has used the OEM old school cans can you tell me if they actually said synthetic anywhere on them. I googled "synthetic Toyota diff fluid and the cans I found look like the ones I got.
Please help my chill the f#*k out guys!

You're most likely fine. The factory spec calls for 2.65-2.75L so you may actually be overfilled if you filled it while your 4Runner wasn't level. For peace of mind, grab another fill washer, pull the plug, and check that the level is within 5mm of the bottom of the fill hole. If so, you're within spec!

I assume you bought the Toyota LT diff oil, since I don't think I've heard of LS? Only difference I see between the LT and LX oil is that LX has limited slip additive, but the are both supposed to be fully synthetic. A bit of LS additive in there isn't going to hurt anything, but I'd let the Amazon seller know so that they can send you what you ordered.

I may have already responded with the following. Don't feel like reading a 30 page post.

My '14 4R called for a given amt. of diff fluid. I always fill the diff 'til it just starts to come out the fill hole. When I used the qty. specified in the owners manual, it was nowhere near the top. It took an extra 1/2 qt. to get it there.

Maybe the specified qty. in the owners manual is OK. I decided to fill the way I stated above and have continued to do so.

Oh yes. LT. My mistake. Thanks for the answer. I was 100% relaxed until I read the next reply which basically says the opposite. Not in a debate way. Just that he had the same experience but always fills to the hole.

Thanks!

Thanks for the help. It was actually on a lift when I did it. And it was the kind of lift with the 4 separate lifts that cradle the tires not the center of the rig. The 4 lifts are supposed to be perfectly synced as they raise/lower, but maybe they were slightly off.

The easy way to remember is the "squishy" (rounded) side goes on the more irregular surface i.e. the diff.