06-18-2012, 11:48 AM
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#1
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Opinions on Aluminum vs Steel Skids
After wheelin' up above Glenwood Springs this weekend (pics to come in another thread once we all share our photos) it became clear that it is time to invest in some skids. (as a side note, all of the other mods I've done - lift, tires, winch plate, winch, CB, all got tested and performed flawlessly )
What are the opinions here (I'll take facts too, but happy with opinions) on aluminum vs steel skids? I've decided that I am going to order a set from Bud and trying to decide if the extra expense of the aluminum is worth it. I would imagine the pro being that it is lighter (but how much?) and the negative being it wouldn't be as strong (but enough that it matters?).
I've reached out to Bud to see if I can get more info on the weight difference between the two but in the meantime what do you guys think? I would love to keep the weight down on the truck but not sure if it's the right decision here.
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Silver 2010 TE w/KDSS, OW 2.5, LR UCAs, Konig Countersteer Type X, Duratrac 285x70x17s, Rockyroad sliders, Bud Built winch plate, Warn M8000 Winch w/ Wireless control, GOBI Stealth rack, Rigid Lights - 16" center spot/flood, dual 6" flood front, dual 6" S/R lights rear, OTRATTW custom switches, BB Skids, Kodiak Dual Battery.
Coming soon - ARB Twin Compressor (waiting for a bracket)
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06-18-2012, 12:00 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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Real Name: Patrick
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I think in order to keep the same strength, the weight difference is not huge difference (iirc around 60 lbs.)..but the down side is once the aluminum is dented, it can't be straightened like conventional steel.
I tried repeatedly to contact BB about this same thing to no avail...good luck.
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06-18-2012, 12:40 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanpat57
..but the down side is once the aluminum is dented, it can't be straightened like conventional steel.
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Ahh yes, I had forgot about that . . . good point.
__________________
Silver 2010 TE w/KDSS, OW 2.5, LR UCAs, Konig Countersteer Type X, Duratrac 285x70x17s, Rockyroad sliders, Bud Built winch plate, Warn M8000 Winch w/ Wireless control, GOBI Stealth rack, Rigid Lights - 16" center spot/flood, dual 6" flood front, dual 6" S/R lights rear, OTRATTW custom switches, BB Skids, Kodiak Dual Battery.
Coming soon - ARB Twin Compressor (waiting for a bracket)
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06-18-2012, 12:56 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SF Bay Area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanC
After wheelin' up above Glenwood Springs this weekend (pics to come in another thread once we all share our photos) it became clear that it is time to invest in some skids. (as a side note, all of the other mods I've done - lift, tires, winch plate, winch, CB, all got tested and performed flawlessly )
What are the opinions here (I'll take facts too, but happy with opinions) on aluminum vs steel skids? I've decided that I am going to order a set from Bud and trying to decide if the extra expense of the aluminum is worth it. I would imagine the pro being that it is lighter (but how much?) and the negative being it wouldn't be as strong (but enough that it matters?).
I've reached out to Bud to see if I can get more info on the weight difference between the two but in the meantime what do you guys think? I would love to keep the weight down on the truck but not sure if it's the right decision here.
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IMO, for desert roads, and occasional boulders, the steel skids sold by BB and others are over the top and very heavy. If you are rock crawling and constantly bashing the skids against big rocks, then that is a different story and would justify the heavy steel skids.
Aluminum in a similar thickness with the correct design would be adequate protection for most of the people that "wheel" their 4runners.
Adding another 200 lbs of steel skids to the truck is not the best setup if you are just running desert roads and getting over occasional boulders that would take out a plastic gas tank or the ultra thin steel stock skids.
Rally cars use aluminum skids that cover the entire bottom of the car, I have seen them take some incredible hits and come out OK.
Most desert race rigs run aluminum as well.
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06-18-2012, 01:10 PM
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#5
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Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigander
IMO, for desert roads, and occasional boulders, the steel skids sold by BB and others are over the top and very heavy. If you are rock crawling and constantly bashing the skids against big rocks, then that is a different story and would justify the heavy steel skids.
Aluminum in a similar thickness with the correct design would be adequate protection for most of the people that "wheel" their 4runners.
Adding another 200 lbs of steel skids to the truck is not the best setup if you are just running desert roads and getting over occasional boulders that would take out a plastic gas tank or the ultra thin steel stock skids.
Rally cars use aluminum skids that cover the entire bottom of the car, I have seen them take some incredible hits and come out OK.
Most desert race rigs run aluminum as well.
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I would agree with most of what is said.
If you are seriously rock crawling, steel is the only way to go.
If you you need to cut weight (racing) aluminum is the only way to go. Remember that rally cars are protecting from bottoming out on gravel roads (even the huge X game jumps) and not a big jagged rock that could slice thru or crush aluminum. Also remember that race rigs (trucks or rally cars) will replace a badly damaged aluminum skid.
If you want that light weight (weight and protection) due to the type of wheeling that you do, then aluminum is a great option.
Personally, the type of wheeling that I do, I need steel and would not consider aluminum. I have bent my 3/16" steel belly skid and have pounded it back into shape. Due to the span between the frame crossbraces, there can be a lot of force when sliding over a boulder.
My gas tank skid is a fully welded pan made from 3/16" steel and holds up great on the rocks (3rd gen only).
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06-18-2012, 01:50 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerdo
I would agree with most of what is said.
If you are seriously rock crawling, steel is the only way to go.
If you you need to cut weight (racing) aluminum is the only way to go. Remember that rally cars are protecting from bottoming out on gravel roads (even the huge X game jumps) and not a big jagged rock that could slice thru or crush aluminum. Also remember that race rigs (trucks or rally cars) will replace a badly damaged aluminum skid.
If you want that light weight (weight and protection) due to the type of wheeling that you do, then aluminum is a great option.
Personally, the type of wheeling that I do, I need steel and would not consider aluminum. I have bent my 3/16" steel belly skid and have pounded it back into shape. Due to the span between the frame crossbraces, there can be a lot of force when sliding over a boulder.
My gas tank skid is a fully welded pan made from 3/16" steel and holds up great on the rocks (3rd gen only).
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I absolutely agree, I was just trying to bring up points that I think are important that I don't see people talking about.
My style of wheeling is high desert fire roads, some areas get tight and there are boulder sized rocks in the 1-2 ft size that you have to get over. And sometime ledges as well. When I am going over these things, I am going slow. I usually try to pick lines that don't have me dragging the undercarriage over large sharp rocks.
Everyone's needs are different. But aluminum should not be ruled out if your needs are not full-tilt rock crawling and rock bashing.
Race vehicles are good to look at in the following respect: They have to weigh the trade-off of weight vs. protection. The heavier the rig, the heavier duty the protection is needed. Rally cars still have a chance at bottoming out on cobble sized rocks are high speeds. Yes, the skids get replaced when damaged, but a small dent here or there is not a big deal in my opinion.
If you start adding a ton of weight to your truck with skids and other accessories, you will have to start upgrading other components like axles, brakes, engine horsepower, suspension, steering, etc. If you keep your rig relatively light weight with lighter weight skids, bumper, etc, you will not have to outfit it with more robust equipment because you are less likely to break/damage something.
The same philosophy can be seen in backcountry climbing and other sports. Light and fast vs. heavy and slow, etc, etc.
Most people running 5th gen 4runners are using them as daily-drivers and going exploring / wheeling on a few weekends. The added weight of heavy-duty protection in the long-run will be more detrimental to the reliability of the truck than trying to keep it light weight when adding off-road protection.
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06-18-2012, 10:05 PM
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#7
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Generally speaking I am a fan of the fast and light theory (especially in the back country) but not sure that it is the best strategy for me and this particular theory.
I haven't heard back from Bud yet (nor am I holding out hope that I will) but I think I am going to go with the steel sliders. While lower weight would be great, I just don't think the difference will justify the cost. Combine that with the fact that my friend who I wheel with up here has steel BB skids on his FJ and they have taken some serious abuse.
If I am going to try and keep up with him I expect much of the same . . .
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Silver 2010 TE w/KDSS, OW 2.5, LR UCAs, Konig Countersteer Type X, Duratrac 285x70x17s, Rockyroad sliders, Bud Built winch plate, Warn M8000 Winch w/ Wireless control, GOBI Stealth rack, Rigid Lights - 16" center spot/flood, dual 6" flood front, dual 6" S/R lights rear, OTRATTW custom switches, BB Skids, Kodiak Dual Battery.
Coming soon - ARB Twin Compressor (waiting for a bracket)
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