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Old 09-06-2012, 05:03 PM #1
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How much have you towed?

I have a 2011 SR5. I am buying a hybrid camper, that weighs almost 4200lbs dry, so with gear I will be 4700lbs or so. I am getting the electric brakes installed, but need to know if I should do anything else, being I will be close to max. The camper does have a swaybar/load distributing hitch. What is the most anyone has towed with there 4Runner?
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:31 PM #2
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This can help you, an entire thread

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Old 09-06-2012, 05:41 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter.mcgavin View Post
I have a 2011 SR5. I am buying a hybrid camper, that weighs almost 4200lbs dry, so with gear I will be 4700lbs or so. I am getting the electric brakes installed, but need to know if I should do anything else, being I will be close to max. The camper does have a swaybar/load distributing hitch. What is the most anyone has towed with there 4Runner?
See the thread posted above.

As for the weight, you are being quite conservative. If the dry weight is stamped 4200#, the trailer is most likely around 4400-4700# "dry". Manufacturers notoriously under stamp weights, and a lot are dealer options (i.e. propane tanks, etc) that they do not have to call "dry" weight. Camping gear adds up quite fast. My trailer for example is stamped 1800#, it is actually around 2100# "dry". Once generators, clothes, food, water, propane, etc is onboard I am easily 3000#
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:45 PM #4
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I tow my 3000 lb boat a short distance almost every weekend. It's hilly over here and high elevation and all combined I find it a little painful. Your hitch and trailer brakes should make what you are doing reasonable, but you won't be winning any drag races and you'll be burning fuel like you have a leak in your gas tank. You'll be happy if you go into your first tow with low expectations. You'll be smiling once settled in camp anyway.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:54 PM #5
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Thanks for the info. I pull my boat no problem, but its under 3000#s. I also towed a pop-up camper with slide out, and it was fine. However I am going up at least 1500#s more. I wont be going too far.... local campgrounds, and maybe 50-100 mile trips a couple times a year. Michigan is pretty flat, so luck out in that aspect too.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:43 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter.mcgavin View Post
Thanks for the info. I pull my boat no problem, but its under 3000#s. I also towed a pop-up camper with slide out, and it was fine. However I am going up at least 1500#s more. I wont be going too far.... local campgrounds, and maybe 50-100 mile trips a couple times a year. Michigan is pretty flat, so luck out in that aspect too.
Hello, I was towing a 4000# camper and traded up to a 5000#er last weekend. I have yet to figure out how to post pics. My 2012 4RUNNER is stock. I have CDL experience and no worrys about these weights. For me it's all about engine/tranny strain. I didn't notice any towing difference between the two trailers. I drive 55 mph towing in 4S and get 14.3 mpg here in the Indiana flatlands (cruise control on usually).
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:46 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggcrisp View Post
Hello, I was towing a 4000# camper and traded up to a 5000#er last weekend. I have yet to figure out how to post pics. My 2012 4RUNNER is stock. I have CDL experience and no worrys about these weights. For me it's all about engine/tranny strain. I didn't notice any towing difference between the two trailers. I drive 55 mph towing in 4S and get 14.3 mpg here in the Indiana flatlands (cruise control on usually).
Great info thanks!!! Helps ease my mind a little bit in my camper purchase. Dont want to ruin my 4Runner.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:24 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggcrisp View Post
Hello, I was towing a 4000# camper and traded up to a 5000#er last weekend. I have yet to figure out how to post pics. My 2012 4RUNNER is stock. I have CDL experience and no worrys about these weights. For me it's all about engine/tranny strain. I didn't notice any towing difference between the two trailers. I drive 55 mph towing in 4S and get 14.3 mpg here in the Indiana flatlands (cruise control on usually).
as soon as the T4R starts towing the race car + trailer it's gonna get a tranny cooler, diff cooler, and oil cooler. with those mods, a properly loaded trailer, and trailer brakes, I wouldn't have any qualms towing more than 5000#
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:03 AM #9
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When fully loaded you WILL be over the OEM tow rating! After one test/trip you will know whether you feel comfortable with your set-up. If not, invest in this system and don't look back (if you get lucky you can find a used one).

The Hensley Cub | Hensley Hitch Towable Products

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Old 09-07-2012, 10:49 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koz View Post
When fully loaded you WILL be over the OEM tow rating! After one test/trip you will know whether you feel comfortable with your set-up. If not, invest in this system and don't look back (if you get lucky you can find a used one).

The Hensley Cub | Hensley Hitch Towable Products

Koz
Koz,

Thanks for the info, I will know very shortly if I need a system like that.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:28 PM #11
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Don't forget that the tow ratings on vehicle are not really related to what you can pull, its more about what you can STOP!

Manufactures don't care if you burn up your motor/tranny, they are concerned about you wiping out the town at the bottom of that big hill though. IMO of course.

Last edited by Zeder; 09-07-2012 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:34 PM #12
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Quote:
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Don't forget that the tow ratings on vehicle are not really related to what you can pull, its more about what you can STOP!

Manufactures don't care if you burn up your motor/tranny, they are concerned about you wiping out the town at the bottom of that big hill though. IMO of course.
So...good trailer brakes, and I am good to go!
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:57 PM #13
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A few tips for you..

I did a 2200 mile round trip with 3800lb tent trailer (FULLY LOADED) up and down 6000ft vertical.(prairies-mountains-ocean and back). Wife, kids, dog, bikes, food, beer, propane(2x35lb), dual 12V deep cycles, etc, and found I got approx 5 mpg better when I left it in 4S(manual) than when I left in 5S(manual). Revs went from 2100rpm to 2700rpm and the MPG got BETTER! Yes, I tested this out 5 or 6 times. I had a lot of seat time to try this. Just reset your MPG gauge on the center consol for each mode and see what happens.

Also, transmission temps (via scan gauge) where 30-70 deg F lower when in 4(manual). They were lower in 5(manual) compared to full auto as well. Torque converter lockup engages when you use the manual mode, thus, less heat.

So bottom line, when you do the towing you should do the shifting too. You get to control when the trans shifts and work around the goofy cruise control that will downshift under full load like when you are in the middle of a hill and peg the RPM's to the roof. It was MUCH less dramatic for me to downshift into third before a big hill and much easier on the transmission too!

Read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/towing...evelation.html
Look here too! http://www.toyota-4runner.org/towing/

Good luck!
Z

I would highly recommend you get a $150 scan Gauge II so that you can monitor all you 4R's vitals while you are towing.

Last edited by Zeder; 09-07-2012 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:14 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9Hooker View Post
as soon as the T4R starts towing the race car + trailer it's gonna get a tranny cooler, diff cooler, and oil cooler. with those mods, a properly loaded trailer, and trailer brakes, I wouldn't have any qualms towing more than 5000#
+1

If I were going to tow anything remotely heavy I would want coolers and trailer brakes so you don't fry the truck.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:18 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guscottrosario807 View Post
hatsoff:

Gus what was your pic of?
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