11-20-2012, 11:24 AM
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#1
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Aluminum Skid Plates?
Hi all,
I'm looking into some skid plates, and have noticed that there are both stainless and aluminum options available. I'm assuming the advantages are avoiding rust and weight savings, but are they durable? I always thought aluminum was soft probably not good for applications like a skid plate were it will bend on rocks.
Does anyone have these or have any advice? Thanks!
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11-20-2012, 11:30 AM
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#2
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x2
I don't have any info for you but I've been extremely curious about aluminium options for our trucks. If anyone responding to the OP can post up some info on brands/vendors, that'd be great!
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11-20-2012, 11:30 AM
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#3
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Heres a start for ya-
Alum. plates will "grab" a bit more on the rocks. They hold up to some severe abuse and can be bashed back into shape alittle easier than steel. Cost more. Will weaken with cont. bending, and crack- if you can weld alum. this can be repaired. Lighter. If your a serious basher i think i would stick with steel, mild weekend warriors might benefit from the lightness of alum.
If your using Budbuilt you can mix-n-match. Steel front plate with alum. elsewhere if desired.
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11-20-2012, 11:36 AM
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#4
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As another lighter option, I have been looking into the ARB skids as well, with maybe something a bit heavier gauge on the rear dif and gas tank
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'01 SR5 Sport. 2nd gen TRD S/C, URD plugs (URD 7th and 2.2 on the way), B&M Tranny cooler, full length 5"height BajaRack, toytec ultimate front coilovers, ome 891/bilstein 5150 rear, toytec dif drop, SS panhard, shrockworks front with piaa 510 and IPF 900 (converted HID), 265/75r16 duratracs, 55w 4300k HID's, smoked LED tails, 20% film on all windows (except windshield), bluetooth/android obd2 reader/gauges.--- SOLD
2010 Shoreline Blue TE. KDSS, ARB, Warn 9.5xp, OME, Duratracs. TONS more to come on this one
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11-20-2012, 11:49 AM
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#5
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I run an aluminum front bumper on my tacoma. Its crazy light and plenty strong. I also have a full set of aluminum Budbuilts on the way. If you're careful with your lines aluminum should be fine, if you tend to smash your truck up go with steel.
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11-20-2012, 04:24 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrande
I run an aluminum front bumper on my tacoma. Its crazy light and plenty strong. I also have a full set of aluminum Budbuilts on the way. If you're careful with your lines aluminum should be fine, if you tend to smash your truck up go with steel.
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Who made the Tacoma front bumper?
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11-20-2012, 04:36 PM
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#7
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His signature block says, Relentless ( Relentless Fabrication), which according to the website does not make a 4Runner Bumper.
I am looking for an aluminum front bumper. Last week, I asked Aluminess in San Diego if they had a Gen 5 front bumper or would make one, and the answer was, no. They said, "Toyota was not very kind with the design of the new model and making bumpers for them is very difficult. When and if we can figure out a way to make them in a way that is affordable to the consumer we will put out a press release."
If you get any leads, please post them.
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11-20-2012, 10:07 PM
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#8
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Thanks for the info on the aluminum skids...now the question I have is would the BudBuilt Lite Steel skid plates be the best of both worlds for weekend warrior-to-moderate offroading? Lighter than the full thickness steel plates but without the added cost of Aluminum and since they're steel they wouldn't "grab" as much but still provide some protection (at least that's how it make sense in my head).
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11-20-2012, 10:41 PM
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#9
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Hofs05 and I just put in a big order with Budbuilt, their customer service was fantastic. I know a lot of people on here weren't fans of the the Budbuilt 4runner bumper, but I think once some see what we ordered they'll change their minds.
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2011 DCSB TRD Offroad, kings front and rear, TC UCA's, All Pro leafs, Timberin bumps, Relentless front bumper, CBI rear bumper and sliders, and other goodies
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11-21-2012, 10:17 AM
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#10
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Thanks for the replies. It seems steel is more suited for off road application. I wonder why aluminum an option when it's not meant for the abuse that the undercarriage takes. I too wonder if the Lite Steel from Budbuilt would be fine for occasional or light off-roading. I'm not sure how that thickness compares to stock skids?
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11-21-2012, 10:37 AM
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#11
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These are the stock skids; I'll take the extra weight of steel for the replacements.
I 'fixed' the dent in the gas tank skid plate, but will be switching to Shrockworks skids.
If you are going to be driving over rocks/boulders, I can't say I see a whole lot of sense in aluminum skids, but that's just my two cents.
Okki
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
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11-21-2012, 11:16 AM
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#12
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Like Okki, I can't see the point of Aluminum skids. Aluminum is roughly 1/3 as strong as steel so you need 3X the thickness to make them as strong as steel. Unless you are only worried about sand, soft dirt or loose gravel I can't see them being any benefit over stock ones. I've even gone to the opposite extreme of ordering custom 3/16" stainless steel ones for the added strength of stainless and no maintenance.
Okki,
Was that a souvenir from Ouray or somewhere else?
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11-21-2012, 11:27 AM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantK
Okki,
Was that a souvenir from Ouray or somewhere else?
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Yeah... Scraped up the support bar on the passenger slider and dented the gas tank skid. Didn't tell the wife about the size of the dent until after we got home LOL otherwise the fun would likely have been over in Ouray. I still got the "you can dent the crap out the gas tank, but you complain when I park at Walmart!" speech LMAO.
the FJ Summit was awesome though. it was great meeting a bunch of the guys from here and the people overall were very nice and a blast to hang out with. I highly recommend it to anyone whose looking to get some trail time in who needs a little support to get started.
Okki
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
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11-21-2012, 01:13 PM
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#14
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Have any of you actually see/handled aluminum armor? Its very stout.
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11-21-2012, 01:52 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrande
Have any of you actually see/handled aluminum armor? Its very stout.
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I have not personally handled it, but from a metallurgy standpoint, there are a few disadvantages to aluminum. mainly that it tends to crack instead of bend. meaning that while it may provide protection from a boulder once or twice, getting it back into shape is where your problem comes into play.
I'm not knocking the product; just saying that you should evaluate the pros and cons. Once i do that for my situation, the small increase in distributed weight for the steel SW plates over stock is worth it.
Everything about our truck is a trade-off and compromise. You just need to decide which of the choices is most applicable to your specific situation/demands and offers the least draw backs.
Adio3x switched to the aluminum plates from steel if I recall correctly. If he can just roll it over a tree stump like the steel plates, then we'd have a pretty good real world comparison
Okki
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Okki's Build Thread - 2010 Limited: Shrockworks Rock Rails & Full Skids, Gobi Rack, OPT7 LED Roof LIGHT Bar, Rigid E-Series Bumper Light Bar, Hella Horns, Auxiliary Fuse Box, Cobra ST75, TRD Rims, Discoverer ATP LT265/70R17, Rotopax, ARB Twin Compressor, Cargo Area Pressure Gauge and Chuck, Icon billet trailing- and A-arms, Dobinsons Shocks/Coils, Fumuto Oil Valve, Northstar Group 31M, CBI Front & Rear Bumpers !!!
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