[Duckdawg1]

Going to level out my wife’s ‘14 limited and torn between larger tires on the 20’s or going trd pro rims with 275s. Maybe going 5100’s all around or spacers in the front. I’m on a budget and doing tires on the 20s is definitely cheaper. Options and pics appreciated. Thanks

[DesertCanyons]

Get a set of Trail Edition rims. They're 17x7.5", which is 1/2" wider than the TRD Pro, FN wheels and SR5 rims. They're better suited for the 275/70/17 tires.
I'll be selling my four stock rims and the spare in about a month. August, 2015 with 25,000 miles. Drive them for a while and then replace the tires with whatever you want. They do okay off road and they're a lot better than 20" rims for rough roads or airing down to get more traction off road.

[Jhalko]

You could look here,
20 inch wheels on LIMITED

And maybe here,
Ride quality of 20 vs 17 inch wheels?

[Duckdawg1]

Thanks for the quick replies

[Jetboy]

275/60/20's - Cooper HT-Plus.

Quiet. Smooth. 43lb each. $125 ea. What's not to love?

Also they're 119T rating at 50psi - so they're rated for more weight than a 265/70/17 E rated tire at lower pressure and also have a T speed rating. Many 275/70/17's don't have a high enough speed rating to match the OEM tires - like the BGF KO2's are only "R" speed rated, so they're less than OEM and some shops won't put them on. I only go over 100mph in school zones, so it's not too big of a deal for me, but mostly an issue at some shops.

They're limited offroad because you can't really air them down much. They're fine for fire/mining roads where most of my dirt road miles end up. When I'm into winch/rock slider territory I swap to the 17's with offroad tires.

Rides a lot better than my 285's on 17" wheels. Mostly due to street tires vs ATs. They're also tall than a 285/70/17 by about half an inch. The lower pic is side by side with a 285/70/17 Toyo AT2. It's fairly worn even though it has less than 20k miles on it. I'm kinda hard on tires.

[Toffees]

Originally Posted by Jetboy

275/60/20's - Cooper HT-Plus.

Quiet. Smooth. 43lb each. $125 ea. What's not to love?

Also they're 119T rating at 50psi - so they're rated for more weight than a 265/70/17 E rated tire at lower pressure and also have a T speed rating. Many 275/70/17's don't have a high enough speed rating to match the OEM tires - like the BGF KO2's are only "R" speed rated, so they're less than OEM and some shops won't put them on. I only go over 100mph in school zones, so it's not too big of a deal for me, but mostly an issue at some shops.

They're limited offroad because you can't really air them down much. They're fine for fire/mining roads where most of my dirt road miles end up. When I'm into winch/rock slider territory I swap to the 17's with offroad tires.

Rides a lot better than my 285's on 17" wheels. Mostly due to street tires vs ATs. They're also tall than a 285/70/17 by about half an inch. The lower pic is side by side with a 285/70/17 Toyo AT2. It's fairly worn even though it has less than 20k miles on it. I'm kinda hard on tires.

Yes, but... does it rub? That's the... err... rub on 20" tires, since going above 275/55/20 will often cause fit issues unless you've lifted substantially.

[Jetboy]

Originally Posted by Toffees

Yes, but... does it rub? That's the... err... rub on 20" tires, since going above 275/55/20 will often cause fit issues unless you've lifted substantially.

They rub a little less than 285/70/17. No major mods required. But you'll probably have to trim the bumper some and remove or trim the mud flap. They might fit without, but I already did the trimming for 285's. The wheels have a little bit less offset and the tires are a bit narrower so both of those help with clearance.

Mine actually rub a little on the upper control arm on the inside of the tire at full steering lock. But I have JBA control arms - they didn't rub on my previous set of tubular control arms or my stock ones. The JBA ones have a different design that I'm going to need to do some cutting on to make a few millimeters of extra clearance.

[bamma]

Keep in mind that the stock 20" wheels are only 7" wide, and I believe any tire wider and at least as tall as the stock size recommend a minimum rim width of 7.5".

Keep in mind this minimum is set based on general tire manufacturing guidelines based on size, not any testing on the particular tire itself. So if you go with a bigger tire, you will have to decide if you are ok with running a tire .5" wider than recommended for the 7" stock rim.

That said, after a lot of research I determined that running LT275/55R20 w would be fine for me. I am running LT275/55R20 tires on my stock 20s, and they are wearing evenly after 30k miles and fit with no bulging or other issues. That is not to say every tire will have the same result.

There are a lot of threads on T4R that discuss this topic in detail.

[Toffees]

Originally Posted by bamma

Keep in mind that the stock 20" wheels are only 7" wide, and I believe any tire wider and at least as tall as the stock size recommend a minimum rim width of 7.5".

Keep in mind this minimum is set based on general tire manufacturing guidelines based on size, not any testing on the particular tire itself. So if you go with a bigger tire, you will have to decide if you are ok with running a tire .5" wider than recommended for the 7" stock rim.

That said, after a lot of research I determined that running LT275/55R20 w would be fine for me. I am running LT275/55R20 tires on my stock 20s, and they are wearing evenly after 30k miles and fit with no bulging or other issues. That is not to say every tire will have the same result.

There are a lot of threads on T4R that discuss this topic in detail.

I mean, I guess, but Toyota says otherwise...

I know this has been debated countless times here, but that doesn't mean the horse isn't dead

*That's for 2016, so other years could be different. And it could be incorrect, but I don't see where the information has been redacted, recalled, nor amended.

[Duckdawg1]

Originally Posted by bamma

Keep in mind that the stock 20" wheels are only 7" wide, and I believe any tire wider and at least as tall as the stock size recommend a minimum rim width of 7.5".
.

I run 35x12.5/15 on an 8” rim on my Tj so .5” larger doesn’t concern me as much. My biggest concerns were rubbing and weather to run spacers. I’m new to this forum and really not familiar with this search function format. Thanks for all the valuable info

[bamma]

Originally Posted by Toffees

I mean, I guess, but Toyota says otherwise...

I know this has been debated countless times here, but that doesn't mean the horse isn't dead

*That's for 2016, so other years could be different. And it could be incorrect, but I don't see where the information has been redacted, recalled, nor amended.

The actual wheel sizeis stamped on the inside of the wheel, and it is 20x7J on the newer style too (I looked at buying a pair but went a different route). So I am guessing the literature is incorrect, but you can verify buy looking at your spare or looking inside the wheel.

[Jetboy]

I have physically measured a wheel. Also just to clarify, I do know how to measure a wheel.


The 20" wheels are in between. They're roughly 7 and 3/8" wide. Why they ended up that way I have no idea. I would label them a 7.25 if I had to pick something to call them. I don't know if there is an industry standard for nominal sizing to run a little big or small. If a typical 7.5 nominal size measures at 7.25 - they're a "7.5" nominal size. If a typical 7.0 runs about 7.25, they're a 7.0. If neither is the case - they're just a weird size that's half way in the middle.

Also - apparently there are some replicas that are 8" wide. Someone locally had them for sale and the paint was flaking off. They claimed to be replicas from ebay. I have no idea what they were, but the quality of paint was not good. Don't know about the wheel its self.

[Toffees]

Originally Posted by Jetboy

I have physically measured a wheel. Also just to clarify, I do know how to measure a wheel.


The 20" wheels are in between. They're roughly 7 and 3/8" wide. Why they ended up that way I have no idea. I would label them a 7.25 if I had to pick something to call them. I don't know if there is an industry standard for nominal sizing to run a little big or small. If a typical 7.5 nominal size measures at 7.25 - they're a "7.5" nominal size. If a typical 7.0 runs about 7.25, they're a 7.0. If neither is the case - they're just a weird size that's half way in the middle.

Also - apparently there are some replicas that are 8" wide. Someone locally had them for sale and the paint was flaking off. They claimed to be replicas from ebay. I have no idea what they were, but the quality of paint was not good. Don't know about the wheel its self.

I think I should add that not only do I not know how to measure a wheel, my reading comprehension is limited as well

[Chriseb444]

Originally Posted by Duckdawg1

Going to level out my wife’s ‘14 limited and torn between larger tires on the 20’s or going trd pro rims with 275s. Maybe going 5100’s all around or spacers in the front. I’m on a budget and doing tires on the 20s is definitely cheaper. Options and pics appreciated. Thanks

I just replaced my stock 20in rims with these from Gear: 740B ? Gear Alloy Wheels with custom paint and new Nitto Tires: Terra Grappler G2 All-Terrain Light Truck Radial Tires
as well as pulled out the crappy XREAS system and replaced with Bilstein 5100's.
It rides better than before and I think looks great.

[Jetboy]

Originally Posted by Toffees

I think I should add that not only do I not know how to measure a wheel, my reading comprehension is limited as well

I figured someone would say "you measured wrong." Usually when I get a measurement that's not what I expect my first thought is that I did something wrong in how I made a measurement or calculation. And a lot of people probably don't know that the measurement is inside bead surface to bead surface. If you measured outside to outside of the bead lip it would be another 22mm wider on a J wheel and end up with some in between sizing. If it were a true 7" wheel the outside measurement should be about 7.9 inches. On J or JJ wheels it should be 11mm from inside seat surface to outer rim lip, but I'd guess many aftermarket wheels don't conform to that convention.