[Scratch and dent]

Building this thread for specs that I encounter while replacing or repairing:


Oil capacity, filters, modifications
Low beam bulbs (Long term review)
Battery (stock size 26f and replacement alternatives)

[Scratch and dent]

Oil type
0w-20

Capacity
6.6 qt with filter
6 qt without filter change

Torque specs
Skid plate bolts 10lbs
Oil filter housing 18.44lbs (I usuallt tighten all the way down, then back it off right before the tab lock)
Filter cap bolt 10lbs
Oil pan drain plug 30lbs

Fumoto drain plug valve
Thread M12 - 1.25

Oil
Penzoil Platinum 0w-20
Prices 2022
Walmart 5qt 23.78
Home Depot 5qt 27.50

Resetting the maintenence reminder
-Key turned to accessory
-Odometer on trip a
-Turn key to off
-Hold odometer button while turning key back to accessory

Filter

Dimentions
Height 3.2
Inside Diameter 1.1
Outside Diameter 2.75

Current filter I use:
Fram
Synthethic
55 Pleats
XG10158
Walmart 14.50$

OEM
Toyota
Cellulose
42 pleats
04152-YZZA5
5$

Purolator
PBL25609
48 Pleats
20$

Toyota TRD
PTR43-00079
25$

Supertech (Walmart special)
MP10158
Cellulose/synthetic mix
56 Pleats
5.49$

Mobile 1
M1C256A
Cellulose/synthetic mix
15$

[Scratch and dent]

My long term review for the following 3 H11 bulbs:

Phillips H11LL 12362 LL (Long Life)
Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H11
Sylvania Silverstar H11

Factory installed bulbs
Phillips H11LL (Made in China)
Temperature 3200k
Output 1200 Lumens
Lasted almost 6 years (96k miles)

Replaced with Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H11 6/2022
Assembled in the US with global parts
Temperature 4100k
Output 1345
Lasted about 8 and 9 months (13k miles )
Just a note about Sylvania bulbs; they will not warrantee a bulb if it is bought on Amazon by a "third party vendor". The seller I bought from was a "third party vendor", so Sylvania did warranty the bulbs.

Replaced with Sylvania Silverstar H11 3/2023
Temperature 4000k
Output 1345 Lumens
Again, lasted about 9 months (11K miles)
This time I bought the bulbs at a parts store (Autozone) and Sylvania sent me a new set. I was out of state when the bulbs burned out, and decided to replace with the original Phillips bulbs. Time will tell if I have a headlight issue, or if Sylvania bulbs just don't last.

Replaced with Phillips H11LL 12362 LL "Long Life bulbs 1/2024
Assembled in the US with global parts
Temperature 3200k
Output 1200 Lumens
On the box and on the bulb these say they are made in Germany.

The reason I tried the Silverstars was due to the "whiter light" and more output (5th gen 4runner halogen projectors have a lot to be desired on dark freeways with oncoming traffic). The brighter light was noticeable, but not enough to compensate for the lack luster performance of the low beam halogen projectors on my 4runner. When I went down this road of trying to improve the low beams, I was driving back and forth between Denver and Montana. During the winter on sometimes 8 to 10 hour drives, I would be driving through Wyoming in pitch black with no one ahead of me and enough on coming traffic to prevent the hi beams being used.

Long story short, the upgraded Silverstars did not improve the low beams and the short life span of the bulbs was not worth the extra price and effort of swapping them out every year.

[fkheath]

Originally Posted by Scratch and dent

My long term review for the following 3 H11 bulbs:

For the low beam bulbs (H11) there is nothing better than the Lasfit Pro LED made especially for the 4Runner: Toyota 4Runner 2014-2020 Custom H11 LED Bulbs with Dust Cover | Pro-DC

Massive increase in light output, pure white color, and same beam pattern (flat top) as the halogen bulbs. A bit pricey but well worth it.

Since the high beam bulbs (9005/HB3) also double as the DRL, you can't replace them with LEDs. Thus, I got the Phillips high wattage (100 watt) rally vision bulbs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134605971875

I was disappointed that they didn't seem much brighter than the OEM bulbs, so I measured the electrical parameters of the OEM bulbs and they were 85 watts! What the ????. They are supposed too only be 55 to 60 watts, which is printed right on the base of the bulbs. Something is very fishy; I think Toyota is cheating a bit for the law doesn't allow that high of a wattage.

There is also the Hella 100 watt 9005/HB3 (Bulbs HELLA High Wattage) but I measure them as having "only" 95 watts. The Phillips do measure 100 watts.


Don't forget to get the OEM LED fog lights (https://www.ebay.com/itm/234936589516)

Much brighter white light compared to the original halogen 19 watt H16 bulbs. They are plug and play, so easy to install. Great wide flat top beam pattern.

[Scratch and dent]

Stock battery:
Panasonic 80D26L-MF
530 A CC
Group size 26F

260L x 170W x 200H

Lead acid flooded with individual caps to refill the water

Terminals are reversed compared to US batteries. 26 is a common battery size. 26f is not common with the positive pole is reversed.

Since a group 26f battery is not really available locally, most people go with a 27f battery. With a 27f, the CCAs are more than enough, and the capacity is better (This means the radio can be on longer without the car running). And besides that, a group 26 battery is tiny!

Group 27F
273L x 173W x 229H
Little taller than the stock Panasonic

Group 34R
260L x 173W x 200H


When my battery stops reliably starting my vehicle, I will be getting a batteries plus X2 group 27F deep cycle:
SLI27FAGMDP X2Power Premium AGM 930CCA
This is a rebranded northstar battery that is available locally (Denver)

On my 3rd gen 4runner, I had a optima yellow top, and it lasted 10+ years until I sold the rig. Too bad optima batteries are not made in the US anymore.


Battery testing
I have learned that in 50 degree weather, when my battery is testing at 250CCA, it will not start. Here are my test results using a cheap (but worth it) conductive tester from amazon (Topdon ab101)

Not starting the vehicle at 50 degrees
250CCA
12.15 volts
12.34 resistance

Barely starting the vehicle at 45 degrees
275CCA
12.23 volts
10.86 resistance

Normal starting the vehicle at 55 degrees
370CCA
12.37 volts
8.1 resistance

For reference, a new AGM group 34 700CCA test
842CCA
12.7 volts
3.56 (AGM batteries have a very low internal resistance)


Advanced auto parts battery chart:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

[KarissaMadden]

Replying for the updates.

[SafarPymN]

What factors do you consider most important when choosing replacement bulbs for your car lights, and have you faced challenges with discrepancies in wattage like the one mentioned in the discussion?

[fkheath]

Originally Posted by SafarPymN

What factors do you consider most important when choosing replacement bulbs for your car lights, and have you faced challenges with discrepancies in wattage like the one mentioned in the discussion?

Most important factors:
1. Brightness (lumens)
2. Color (white verses yellow/orange, measured in degrees Kelvin)
3. Life (hours)

Usually the brighter, whiter, halogen lights (Silverstar) have the shortest life so it is a trade off.

LEDs are usually the best because they have the longest life (near lifetime), the whitest light, and are brighter. But they can't always be used everywhere. LEDs are brighter because they are much more efficient -- light output (lumens) for power input, and less power gets wasted in heat.

Any lights that consume more watts than the law allows are labeled "for off road use only", but in fifty years of driving my Porsche with 100 watt H4 bulbs, I have never been stopped because my lights are too bright. Besides, I doubt that few people even know how to measure the watts going into a bulb.

If you are respectful of oncoming drivers, you should never have a problem.

Many of the halogen lights that claim to have whiter lights do that by having a blue coating that keeps the red/orange/yellow components in. Any coating that removes part of the light has to put out less light for the watts in.

Also keep in mind that blue lights are illegal except for emergency vehicles. A lot of the kids where I live, like to put blue coated headlight bulbs in because they think they are brighter; they are not. Really hard to tell which is dimmer: the headlight bulb or the kid's brain.

[fkheath]

Originally Posted by fkheath

Most important factors:
1. Brightness (lumens)
2. Color (white verses yellow/orange, measured in degrees Kelvin)
3. Life (hours)

Add another factor:

4. Pattern. You want lights that get the most light down the road without blinding oncoming drivers. That is why most modern lights have a flat top pattern: light below the line to get light on the road, and no light above the line to get in oncoming drivers eyes.

LEDs have a different pattern than halogen lights; LEDs emit light only out the face of the chip, while halogen lights emit light in all directions from the filament. That is why LEDs cannot always be used in headlight housings meant for halogen light bulbs.