I didn't want to make a new thread, so I searched "5th gen toytec boss" and this was the first link, so I'll post my review and experiences with it so far.

Pre-lift I was running the SW bumper and Duratracs 285/70/17 Load D. Going reverse with the steering wheel fully locked to the left I would rub on the SW bumper's windshield washer fluid reservoir (my sister in law running the stock tires with the SW bumper does not rub). I purchased the Toytec Boss kit to get rid of the rubbing.

Post-lift and LR UCAs, the rubbing is gone. I just have the front up 1.5" and the back up 2". The body roll is less noticeable than before, after switching to the Duratracs it was also less noticeable, but with the lift it's even more less noticeable. Still there if I take corners really fast, but I don't do that normally, just testing the limits of the lift safely when no one was around. Overall, I feel very planted during my normal driving routines. I've made the trip to IA to TX to IA prelift and mods in the 4R, the 4R after all my mods definitely feel more stable driving on the highway (not that it was dangerously unstable before all the mods), crosswinds take a little more to push me to the side.

After a round trip from IA to TX, back to IA, I noticed a squeaky noise and automatically blamed the LR UCA. I thought the squeak was from the cold, or some dirt/salt from the roads got stuck somewhere. So on a nice day after a snow storm, I took it to a car wash, sprayed the two front fenders and hoped it would go away. Drove probably 50 feet and nothing! Then it started making the squeaks again And this was after a wash, and on a nice day! So it wasn't from dirt or the cold. The squeak got more consistent and louder, my wife drove it and described as driving a 100 yr old car.

I took it into the dealer who did the install and they found out the sway bar was actually rubbing on the coil I asked if it was because I had the caster bumped up to 2.9, and they said it shouldn't be the reason. I dont' think anyone with a SW bumper is running the Toytec Boss kit, so would it be because of the bumper?

They suggested to shave a little off the sway bar and I reluctantly agreed because I didn't want to lift it higher because I like the way my cv angles look, and I know guys even take off their sway bar with upgraded shocks and coils, so I assumed I should be ok if they shaved a little, if anything I could take them off? So they shaved a little off the sway bar and no more squeaks. I asked them to show me where it was rubbing and the sway bar is definitely very close to the coil, I couldn't even get my index finger in the space, I have big hands...for an Asian lol so basically average size hands for the American population.

It's a little too late to really do anything about the shaving part, but do you guys think it was plain stupid (after @1engineer 's "stupid" rant, I'm afraid of what he has to say but I still welcome it) to shave a little off the sway bar? I know I am messing with the engineering of the factory 4R so that in itself is a caution. I plan on touching up the shaved area with some rust protection. But any other advice/insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Did you install spacers for the sway bar? IIRC, all of the front end lifts for non-KDSS have sway bar spacers.

Ahh crap, I have no idea, probably a dumb question but can you point me into the right direction where to look for the spacers, I didn't do the install (no garage, rather spend time with the kiddos-they grow so fast!) but I can follow instructions Thanks Jeremy, you've always been very helpful to me!

Look for the silver bracket in the front of your wheel-well:

So the mechanics decided that the proper fix was to grind off a section of sway bar eh? Can you take a picture of where on the sway bar?

I just installed this lift (with the swaybar spacers) and have no rubbing, popping, creaking, etc. Everything is perfect. But it has only been driven a few days and there has been no off-road flexing. It has negotiated the winding mountain roads of Colorado, though.

You should have got those spacers with the lift, but if not, contact Toytec and I'm sure they can send you some. You aren't far from them, so shipping should only be a day.

Make sure to paint whatever section of swaybar was ground off, as well as anything it rubbed paint off of on the coil.

Yea, you need the spacers. Night and day difference before and after I installed mine with the noise issue. I would also recommend getting longer links for the rear sway bar too if the rear is lifted.

No spacers installed. I called Toytec and they are sending out the parts this afternoon. They were kind and polite about it. No questions asked.



Well, I am "that guy" with the stupid mistakes To my untrained eye, it looks like a little shaving, not compromising too much the integrity of the swaybar, correct?

I think at this point this is all I can really do. Will wait till the spacers arrive, then I'll paint over the exposed sections, and other rust areas while I'm down there. Thanks again.

I'll have to look at the rear sway bar too. Thanks for the advice.

Good to know that the lift is working out fine. Can't wait to have this resolved and just enjoy the 4R. Can you possibly take a pic of the clearance of the swaybar and coils so I have a point of reference when it's installed with the spacers?

Well, I was hoping Toytec would reimburse me for going through the hassle of getting it diagnosed and "hacked". But it was a no go. And I can't blame them, it was partly my fault for not checking if I got all the parts or not. I guess I was expecting when I buy a kit it would come with everything, especially when you pay over 1k for it. The reality is you still should check anyways, so that's my fault.

The dealer charged me for the labor, I can't blame them too much, because they didn't know they were missing a spacer. If I would have been patient and checked with you guys first, I would have avoided some labor charges. Once again, I'll take the blame on that.

I just hope others can learn from my mishaps and
1. check your order for the completeness of it, mistakes happen so hope for the best and expect the worse
2. Go with your gut feeling, hacking the swaybar sounded wrong, but I still went ahead with it because well, I'm pretty stupid Check with this site with any questions before you get it installed, the help I received was super fast from you guys and if I waited a little longer before letting them hack up the swaybar, I would have avoided some labor charges.

Just trying to put a positive spin on it, life is too short to be negative about everything.

I'll update once it's all resolved.

Thanks for the help everyone!

I mean look at the bright side, at least they ground down the sway bar and not the coil, lol. What's done is done

@eddiebx is absolutely correct @whodat lol. I think your swaybar should be ok. Good luck and keep the thread updated.

When you fix the spacer issue you may want to also add some paint (black and red) to the respective parts to cover up the rusting/dings created by the rubbing. Just a thought.

I can take a pic for you later today.
Away from my baby, right now.

The swaybar spacers should also come with a set of spacers for the frame braces as well. When you move the swaybar, it will hit the frame braces if you don't space them down. Also, make sure the bottom of the Coilover is spaced towards the rear of the vehicle since they should come with a thicker and a thinner bushing.

I would build the ground down portion with bondo and wrap it with duct tape just to be safe!