I use 80 on my wheels and Spacers........seems to work fine.

Every time a shop touches any of the lugs on any of our cars, first thing I do when I get home is get out the breaker bar and loosen them all about a turn, then retorque to 85.

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I used to work at Discount Tire back in the day. i also went there a couple days ago to pick up a set of Methods(i still get a discount). They torque the lugs at 85 ft-lbs. i remember from i worked there(2004-2007) and its always been 85.

The reason to torque is multifaceted.

1). You torque to ensure that you don't overtirque and sheer off a stud, which is very easy to do with anything more than a 3/8 drive ratchet.

2). You torque so that you verify even load on the lugs. With one piece rotors, you don't want to torque much more than 80 lbs because it runs the risk of snapping studs but also deflects the rotor which leads to feeling like you have warped rotors and uneven wear if some of them are overtorqued and some are not.

With a 6 lug layout you don't need as much individual load as a 5 or a 4 lug setup.

On my Ford the lug specs are 119lb-ft which is nuts but it's a two piece rotor and meant for harsh duty and continuous race use. No one wants a wheel failure at 140 mph and not only are the stresses more but the vibrations and chance of mechanical action loosening greater.

With off-roading I'd check before and after but I wouldn't torque more than 85 on an OEM one piece rotor with skinny studs

Hi Everyone - I just acquired a 2008 4Runner Sport and excited to be a part of the group!

Vehicle came with locking lug nuts that I do not want. I bought a set of Dorman lug nuts to replace all the lug nuts and locking lug nuts. I noticed that the the OEM nuts come with washers. The Dormans do not have washers.

Are washers necessary on the lug nuts?

Show us the photos of your wheel (rim) and lug nut (old one and new one). The factory lug nuts have washers on them.

Been reading a lot on the correct torque for our wheels. 83 seems to be the norm many go by and just to make it easy, many set their wrenches to 85. I have no issue with this. Makes perfect sense.

I'm running the TRD Pro alloy wheels. PTR20-35110-BK.
My 2018 owner's manual states the following (page 472):
Steel wheels: 83 ft•lbf (112 N•m, 11.4 kgf•m) Aluminum wheels: 76 ft•lbf (103 N•m, 10.5 kgf•m)
So I figure I should probably go with 76ft.lbs. Right? But then I research some more and find a specific Toyota pdf on the Pro alloy wheels and they suggest 83 just like a steel wheel.

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/inst...110%20issb.pdf

What the heck? Why the disparity Toyota?

Somewhere between 80-85, have had certain shops go higher (they probably used an impact and called it good.)

FSM for my '01 4Runner Alloy Wheels says 83ft lbs.

Honestly, higher than 90 feels like I might stretch a stud...

I snapped 1 lug stud off torquing to 85 ft-lbs and another lug was stretched and ready to snap.

Fortunately the studs were easy to replace. Too bad they are so weak.

I never snapped a stud on my 12yr old 2nd gen Tacoma with the same torque values.

Either your lug studs were damaged or your torque wrench is really out of calibration. There is no way 85 ft-lbs will be enough to shear off the stud. Someone over-torqued and over stretched them.

I'm not doubting you had issues but you have got to be kidding. That's what most people torque at. That's ridiculous. It's pretty much average. I could see stretching and busting off studs at over 100. But since they already suggest 83. It's almost hard to believe that 85 would be over torquing.

Very Productive post keep posting like this on regula basis.

1st of all Everyone, this is a really old thread!!!

Just got home from a major tire shop in town and they used impacts to tighten my lugs??

I've been searching my manuals then went to the internet to find an answer to lug nut torque specs. Came on to this thread.

Antman... I completely respect your opinions. Whenever you comment, I listen.

I totally agree with what you said here but want to add for those listening to me: MOST fastener/clamp load failures, particularly those in a dynamic state are due to an "Under Torque" condition. Too loose.

We can talk about going beyond the elastic state of a fastener. I think Antman gets this.

I'm hearing 85Ft/lbs for a 5th Gen. Does that still hold true for a 2021?

Have torque on the ground and ready to do the do over.

Sorry,
I just noticed there's a Sticky on this.
I'll go back to my cave,,,