I have a 2011 SR5 with a Toytech BOSS lift and SPC control arms. I planned on going with 285/70r17 tires and ordered the Relations Race wheels in 8’5” with -12 offset. Was the -12 offset a mistake? I’m not afraid to do a BMC, but I may be able to change my order since they haven’t shipped yet
I also ordered RRW wheels with -12mm offset, I did it for JBA UCA clearance. You probably did not need to, but the difference is less than half an inch. Unlikely that little bit is the difference between a BMC or not, but it could be.
I would have gone with 0 offset if it was an option for me, but it was not.
I ran across this video on YouTube about a guy fitting 34's on his 5th Gen.
He has TRD Pro suspension with spacer lift kit, aftermarket UCA's, and I think that's it. Looks like he will have to do a VERY minor trim to the front bumper, but he doesn't even have a BMC and he fit 34's without any issue.
Anyone have any input on this?
This guy is very long winded, so skip to 4:00 to get to the fitment.
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I ran across this video on YouTube about a guy fitting 34's on his 5th Gen.
He has TRD Pro suspension with spacer lift kit, aftermarket UCA's, and I think that's it. Looks like he will have to do a VERY minor trim to the front bumper, but he doesn't even have a BMC and he fit 34's without any issue.
Anyone have any input on this?
This guy is very long winded, so skip to 4:00 to get to the fitment.
I run a 295/70/17 on 2.5 front 2” rear and no BMC with no rubbing. It’s all about choosing the proper wheels.
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
I ran across this video on YouTube about a guy fitting 34's on his 5th Gen.
He has TRD Pro suspension with spacer lift kit, aftermarket UCA's, and I think that's it. Looks like he will have to do a VERY minor trim to the front bumper, but he doesn't even have a BMC and he fit 34's without any issue.
Anyone have any input on this?
This guy is very long winded, so skip to 4:00 to get to the fitment.
He doesn't exactly say it doesn't rub and didn't have issues. He'll be trimming more once he gets it off road.
I've run a couple sets/brands of 285/75's (Most are not a true 34 btw.)
And you need the following to be sure it won't rub: BMC, trim the fender liner, caster at 4* which requires UCA's, wheel offset will play a big factor in this too. (I didn't hear mention of how much caster he was running). Re gearing is subjective. I re geared mine and am very happy I did however it's not necessary.
Bottom line if you want 34's you need some cutting/trimming unless your rig is a pavement princess and you don't mind a bit of rubbing. It's far easier to stay on 285/70's and the gain going to 34's is negligible
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I have a question that more of an engineering question.
If you lift up your vehicle to fit 32.7" tires but could not fit them before the lift due to clearance issues with fenders/body mount, how's the lift make it so it fits? would the tires still not rub under full compression while at turning lock? Does lifting it just change the range of travel of the IFS?
from my understanding, the upper control arm limits the suspension droop. If you lift it, you reduce the amount of droop as you are forcing the suspension downward (unless you change the upper control arms), but then do you also decrease upward travel? If this is the case, would the (guesstimate) 10" of total wheel articulation be reduced due to the lift as it would limit upward travel by pushing the range downward to stop the tires from rubbing on the BMC/Fenders? Then this in turn is affected by the upper control arm binding?
The type of off-roading that I do is very tame. washed out fire roads, across fields, some ditch crossing, encountering mud, snow covered unplowed roads (got hung up this winter more times than I'd care to share). Looking for more clearance but trying to not lessen the articulation for washed out fire roads and ditch crossing. Also trying to get better approach and departure angles. looking at 2.5/1.5 or 2/1 mild lift for 32.7" tires.
2016 Limited with stock suspension, 265/70r17's at the moment.
I have a question that more of an engineering question.
If you lift up your vehicle to fit 32.7" tires but could not fit them before the lift due to clearance issues with fenders/body mount, how's the lift make it so it fits? would the tires still not rub under full compression while at turning lock? ....
yes that is my understanding, lifting will not help tire clearance under full compression if you are doing it by increasing travel. I would expect using spacers would help since that keeps the same travel .
Install the appropriate bump stops if you’re concerned about clearance at full compression.
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
I have a question that more of an engineering question.
If you lift up your vehicle to fit 32.7" tires but could not fit them before the lift due to clearance issues with fenders/body mount, how's the lift make it so it fits? would the tires still not rub under full compression while at turning lock? Does lifting it just change the range of travel of the IFS?
from my understanding, the upper control arm limits the suspension droop. If you lift it, you reduce the amount of droop as you are forcing the suspension downward (unless you change the upper control arms), but then do you also decrease upward travel? If this is the case, would the (guesstimate) 10" of total wheel articulation be reduced due to the lift as it would limit upward travel by pushing the range downward to stop the tires from rubbing on the BMC/Fenders? Then this in turn is affected by the upper control arm binding?
The type of off-roading that I do is very tame. washed out fire roads, across fields, some ditch crossing, encountering mud, snow covered unplowed roads (got hung up this winter more times than I'd care to share). Looking for more clearance but trying to not lessen the articulation for washed out fire roads and ditch crossing. Also trying to get better approach and departure angles. looking at 2.5/1.5 or 2/1 mild lift for 32.7" tires.
2016 Limited with stock suspension, 265/70r17's at the moment.
The answer is that with IFS - the lift makes no difference in tire clearance unless you modify your bump stops and reduce travel. There is a minor difference in alignment setting of the LCA tabs at different lift height. Assuming you're maxing out your caster - lift makes no difference unless you never flex the suspension. Every tire that fits with a 3" lift also fits with no lift. You can try it if you are curious and have adjustable height shocks. I have 34's and have run with every level of lift from 1" (lowest I can adjust) to 3". It's the same at any setting. And I did need a BMC. It wasn't even close to fitting for me. 32.7 and 33.0" tires (275/60/20) both fit nicely without a BMC. 285/75/17's did not.
I run a 295/70/17 on 2.5 front 2” rear and no BMC with no rubbing. It’s all about choosing the proper wheels.
What is the width/offset of your FX Pro wheels?
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
hello, great article. I just bought theRR5-S 17X8.5 relations race wheels with -12 offset and 4.28" backspace. Also getting the icon stage 2 lift, 2.5" in the front and 2" in the back. Do you think I can fit 285/70/17 KO2's with only trimming and not a body mount chop? the guy installed them was recommending 275/70/17 because of the offset
The problem is that every 4Runner is a bit different, so even if you had measured before, you wouldn't necessarily know for sure if your adjustments for caster would have enough left to help. So it really is one of those situations where you kinda have to just try and see if it fits.
To add another wrinkle - the higher you lift, the less caster you have. It's just the way the geometry of the A-arms work where the upper control arm pivots at an angle compared to the lower one. So... the lift height will have an effect on the measured caster angle even if the lower control arms is all the way forward. For example at stock height the same LCA settings for 4* of caster would only result in about 1.5-2* of caster at 3" lift. What that means for this situation is that you can't necessarily just assume that if you're set at 2* of caster now, you can go to 4. There might not be enough adjustment left. And the caster angle doesn't really directly translate to whether the spindle is adjusted forward. It can be all the way forward at 2* of caster in some cases and in others that would give 5* of caster.
That's why most lifts end up with replace upper control arms. They move the upper ball joint to get back the lost caster from the lift. BUT... they do it by moving the upper joint to the rear - effectively removing some of your clearance at the body mount area. So the need for upper control arms to have a good allignment can end up reducing your body clearance where you want it.
All of those factors plus a very close fit result in a lot of confusion over whether a certain tire size fits or not. And that's kinda why we always end up with the answer being - maybe, maybe not - depends on your vehicle. How much lift, what control arms, what wheel offset, what tire size, and even what tire tread pattern - some are just a bit wider than others.
I think you can pretty safely assume on most 4Runners that 285/70/17's will fit with trimming the front bumper and removing the mud flaps as long as your wheels are stock offset. Wider offset causes problems and so do larger tires. You can pretty safely also assume that 285/75/17 being 1.3" taller than 285/70/17's will not fit in almost any instance without cutting the body mount. On mine it was not close to fitting. Other sizes like 255/80/17 being narrow tend to fit better than wider ones, so you could have a bit wider stance on the wheels.
And - finally, I think we all dream of a day when we can just slap 35's on without a lift or rubbing like the JL wranglers. Come on Mr. T - give us some tire clearance in the next edition!
I've read and tried to digest your points on Castor angles and moving forward away from the rear flap/body mount. You seem to know quite a bit about alignment.
I just recently had a Dobinson 3" lift installed including UCA's, and 285/70's. No rubbing, othere than the occasional in reverse on the left front against the back liner. My question is on my alignment numbers. I have a 1.3 on LF and 1.1 on RF. I know they are out of spec due to the lift, but would you have them go back to the drawing board on it to bring them foward it little and possibly mitigate any more rubbing?
I've read and tried to digest your points on Castor angles and moving forward away from the rear flap/body mount. You seem to know quite a bit about alignment.
I just recently had a Dobinson 3" lift installed including UCA's, and 285/70's. No rubbing, othere than the occasional in reverse on the left front against the back liner. My question is on my alignment numbers. I have a 1.3 on LF and 1.1 on RF. I know they are out of spec due to the lift, but would you have them go back to the drawing board on it to bring them foward it little and possibly mitigate any more rubbing?
With aftermarket upper control arms, you should be able to get to the 4* mark for caster. Whoever did your alignment didn't know how to properly align a lifted 4Runner.
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
I've read and tried to digest your points on Castor angles and moving forward away from the rear flap/body mount. You seem to know quite a bit about alignment.
I just recently had a Dobinson 3" lift installed including UCA's, and 285/70's. No rubbing, othere than the occasional in reverse on the left front against the back liner. My question is on my alignment numbers. I have a 1.3 on LF and 1.1 on RF. I know they are out of spec due to the lift, but would you have them go back to the drawing board on it to bring them foward it little and possibly mitigate any more rubbing?
There's a lot going on with alignment and lift. The lower control arm is where the alignment adjustments are made. It has two cam bolts that ultimately mean that the lower ball joint out at the end of the arm can move to anywhere in an elliptical shape area. Within that area is a range of available caster that will also be within spec on camber.
Some alignment shops will effectively cut corners by only adjusting the rear cams on each side. Generally you can get camber within spec by adjusting only the rear cam bolts, and not the front. That will usually not get the best alignment overall. If you can take a photo of the cam bolts position on both cam bolts on each side, I can probably tell you whether you should go back for a fix at the alignment shop or if you have something else to fix.
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