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Old 02-18-2014, 07:03 PM #1
Helix26404 Helix26404 is offline
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JBL Amp Wiring Diagram

I'm looking to install a new amplifier inline with the JBL amplifier, but need a wiring diagram to see which lines to tap for the high-to-low level converter. Does anyone have a diagram or know where I can find one?
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:21 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helix26404 View Post
I'm looking to install a new amplifier inline with the JBL amplifier, but need a wiring diagram to see which lines to tap for the high-to-low level converter. Does anyone have a diagram or know where I can find one?
See if this helps
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File Type: pdf Navigation System (2010 4Runner) .pdf (267.1 KB, 1733 views)
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:01 PM #3
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This is fantastic! Are there any notes available for what the abbreviations mean? See picture.
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:41 PM #4
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I'm going to hazard a guess informed by looking the image in the context of your post.

TWL+ = Tweeter left positive
LH = Left hand side
RH = Right hand side

I would caution against wiring a second amp inline with your existing amp especially if stereo schematic abbreviations are foreign to you.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:40 PM #5
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It's pretty straight forward. F = front. These are the front door speakers. TW = tweeter. These are on the dash. R = Rear and/or Right but it's pretty clear which one. The only area that is a little confusing is the Front Right speaker. I did not have this diagram when I did mine but now I think either I screwed mines up a bit but it doesn't matter or i got lucky and spliced before any of the other lines that run to the Telematics Transceiver (what the hell is that anyway?). Everything works perfectly fine so I probably preserved the wiring to the Telematics crap when I spliced.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:41 PM #6
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Thanks for all of this. I *think* the telematics receiver connected to that speaker is the Bluetooth cell phone speaker interrupt when you get or place a call? In my vehicle I get audio only from the front left dash speaker. I am assuming this is what the telematics controller is doing.

I am assuming I cannot get a line-level signal from the HU here, completely bypassing the amp? I'm afraid it would affect my Bluetooth, etc. With the equipment I'm using (JL Signal Summer and DSP), I can take the high-level, shape it, and output it correctly, but it would be nice to have it coming as a low-level signal...
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:42 PM #7
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Also one more thing. I see other posts that reference the front speakers being connected in parallel. This diagram doesn't reflect this, UNLESS those connections are being handled internally in the amp??
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:49 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helix26404 View Post
Also one more thing. I see other posts that reference the front speakers being connected in parallel. This diagram doesn't reflect this, UNLESS those connections are being handled internally in the amp??
The non premium systems speakers are in parallel.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:34 PM #9
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Thanks. Do you know if the front dash speakers get full-range signals? I didn't think they would be full-range until I saw the bass blockers on them, which confused me since the signals are coming on discreet wiring from the amp...
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:49 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSchool1959 View Post
I'm going to hazard a guess informed by looking the image in the context of your post.

TWL+ = Tweeter left positive
LH = Left hand side
RH = Right hand side

I would caution against wiring a second amp inline with your existing amp especially if stereo schematic abbreviations are foreign to you.
With respect, I know exactly what I'm doing. In order to keep the factory HU and all associated factory features (AUX inputs, steering wheel controls, Bluetooth audio), I am taking the amplified signals from the JBL amp and placing a JL CleanSweep Signal Summer inline to achieve summed F&R stereo outputs.

From there, I am routing the summed signals to the JL CleanSweep DSP, which will normalize the EQ and provide me with true full-range outputs to send to a JL amplifier. The JL amplifier will output back into the factory wiring where passive crossovers will ensure the right output frequency range to the right speakers.

Thanks for your help on the abbreviations. I should have caught those myself, but as it turns out was staring at the wiring diagram for too long too late into the night.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:26 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helix26404 View Post
Thanks. Do you know if the front dash speakers get full-range signals? I didn't think they would be full-range until I saw the bass blockers on them, which confused me since the signals are coming on discreet wiring from the amp...
Dash speaker receives high pass signal only. Bass blocker on speaker is for the tweeter. Is that what you were referring to?
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:46 PM #12
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Yes, thanks. I think what I will have to do then is sum the front 4 speakers into one unified stereo front to ensure I get the full frequency spectrum.

The only negative I can think from this approach is that I will have the phone calls in BOTH driver-side front speakers, rather than just the dash speaker currently. I'm not sure this is even a negative.

Thanks for your help here. I am planning on writing up a full, detailed how-to on this for those who want to keep their factory nav HU, but want the added flexibility of an external amplifier and full-range outputs so that component system users can have exactly what they need to get the sound they want.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:48 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helix26404 View Post
With respect, I know exactly what I'm doing. In order to keep the factory HU and all associated factory features (AUX inputs, steering wheel controls, Bluetooth audio), I am taking the amplified signals from the JBL amp and placing a JL CleanSweep Signal Summer inline to achieve summed F&R stereo outputs.

From there, I am routing the summed signals to the JL CleanSweep DSP, which will normalize the EQ and provide me with true full-range outputs to send to a JL amplifier. The JL amplifier will output back into the factory wiring where passive crossovers will ensure the right output frequency range to the right speakers.

Thanks for your help on the abbreviations. I should have caught those myself, but as it turns out was staring at the wiring diagram for too long too late into the night.
I sure didn't mean to offend. Sounds like you have it handled. Good luck with the process and enjoy the new sounds!
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:50 AM #14
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No worries! Thanks!
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:58 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helix26404 View Post
I am planning on writing up a full, detailed how-to on this for those who want to keep their factory nav HU, but want the added flexibility of an external amplifier and full-range outputs so that component system users can have exactly what they need to get the sound they want.
that would be a really nice addition to the forum knowledge-base. looking forward to your writeup.
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