I have been searching all around and I can't find much info on alignments with stock suspension and stock size tires.....Basically my 4Runner has been taxing to drive from day one. It takes a million little corrections to maintain straight and level and this is only worsened by bad roads or wind etc (basically wandering all over the place). So after researching a bunch, I decided to get an alignment done and ask for the castor to be set much higher than it currently was. Before and after are as follows:
Caster:
Before (pattern repeated)
LF: 2.7 RF: 2.4 (out of spec 2.5 min)
After
LF: 2.8 RF: 2.6

Camber:
LF: -0.1 RF: -0.2
LF: -0.1 RF: -0.2

Toe:
LF: 0.0 RF: 0.05
LF: 0.05 RF: 0.05

After the alignment my disappointment came when I was told that the tech "didn't want to go too high because it would rub" and it was set a whooping .2 higher. So my question is, how high can I go without rubbing using the stock suspension (if that's even possible). According to my little printout from the shop, +4 degrees is within Toyota spec and I don't feel like they would spec it to +4 knowing it rubs (stock). So what do you guys think? Can I go higher W/O rubbing (knowing that the shoulder of my tire is more aggressive but still stock size - lol may be impossible w/o looking)?

The good: I would estimate that the car wanders less by around 15% and (my favorite part) the steering wheel is now straight! I also have the lifetime warranty so I can get it redone when ever I want.

The bad: I cant find alignment specs for people without lifts or suspension work...And the small adjustments made were not what I was hoping for and did not correct my problem.

Any help would be muuuuuch appreciated!

Set it to +4 caster and don't look back, you will almost positively be fine as far as rubbing goes

Agreed - from the factory mine was terrible. Doing 70 on the freeway, the wife asked what was wrong with the steering and said she flat didn't want to drive it. Took it in for an alignment and specifically told them to set the castor as close to 4.0 degrees as possible.

Factory spec calls for castor: 2.5 – 4.0 degrees
Castor from the factory: 2.8 degrees Left and 2.5 degrees Right
Castor after alignment: 4.0 degrees Left and 3.9 degrees Right

This helped one hell of a lot, but it still wanders more than I would like, especially with tongue weight while towing.

I'm running standard size BF Goodrich T/A KO's, KDSS, and stock (not lifted) suspension. The tires have a more aggressive shoulder than the stock tires, and I have no rubbing on the suspension - just a marginal amount on the fender liner at full lock - but nothing on the suspension itself. You should be good.

I don't think this is an alignment issue. I think it's a sway bar issue. My 2000 Tundra had a wandering problem and I was able to fix it with a Hellwig rear anti-sway bar. I think I will try that next (it already has new Michelin tires and Bilstein shocks, and alignment).

I do have my Bilsteins set at .85 with OEM size, P-rated tires. But from all I've read, you'll not have a problem.

I had exactly the uber-annoying wandering characteristics you describe, and the +4 caster setting completely fixed it. Not sure I'd have kept the 4R if that couldn't have been fixed.

Tell your shop to just do it, and you'll accept the responsibility to correct any rubbing.

Given that your camber did not change any, I'd guess the tech set the toe and tilted the alignment heads on the front so you would see a change on the printout. Look at the LCA bolts to see if there are any marks from a wrench or socket. Probably not. They probably did not want to spend the time to do it right. You may want to familiarize yourself with the process (maybe on youtube?) and watch whoever does it next time. I'd also ask to see the final numbers before they pull the alignment heads off the wheels.

You shouldn't have any problems with rubbing being all stock. Get it as close to 4° as you can while still preserving good camber.

FWIW, my 4th gen is about 4.5° and feels pretty good on the road.