05-27-2014, 05:54 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Green Guy
I haven't heard or felt anything. Just noticed it after cleaning the wheels. I suppose there is a very good probability it happened during installation. My mechanic has years of experience from a Toyota dealer, but maybe not the same tools and lifts to do things more cautiously. I don't know. Just would hate to keep spending money on things and then this problem pops up again.
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Welp, I guess you are all fine then. You posted asking seeming concerned, I said I have seen this before and was letting you know "why" you`re coil is contacting the UCA, and how to eliminate through process of elimination. Now twice you have already came to you`re own conclusion as to "why" or "how" when you we`re the one who posted this thread asking for help. Seems you should have just went to you`re Tech from the get go and save us all a bunch of time...
Fix it, leave it, hmmm, what sounds good for dinner....
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05-27-2014, 07:46 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Green Guy
I haven't heard or felt anything. Just noticed it after cleaning the wheels. I suppose there is a very good probability it happened during installation. My mechanic has years of experience from a Toyota dealer, but maybe not the same tools and lifts to do things more cautiously. I don't know. Just would hate to keep spending money on things and then this problem pops up again.
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The Green Guy, replied on your home page (5/21), the factory upper control arm would rub spring under full droop, not a big deal, but changing UCA's to aftermarket would gain you additional control arm to spring clearance, not to mention additional alignment adjustability (mainly caster).
Bet when they did alignment they were only able to get 0 degrees of caster at best...................
How do I know, been there, done that! Installed my Daystar kit 2 years ago, had the same exact issue of spring rub. Decision for replacement UCA's came after alignment shop couldn't get any where close to factory specs (scary to drive at highway speed).
After installing LR UCA's, ball joint set to "D" setting, caster was able to be set at +4 degrees, truck drove great! I know there a few people in this forum that have had issues with LR, so far mine have been fine, but if you wanted something different check these out Camburg Upper Control Arms Set - 310040 "Ball-Joint"
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05-27-2014, 10:35 PM
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#18
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Join Date: May 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthWest 4R
Welp, I guess you are all fine then. You posted asking seeming concerned, I said I have seen this before and was letting you know "why" you`re coil is contacting the UCA, and how to eliminate through process of elimination. Now twice you have already came to you`re own conclusion as to "why" or "how" when you we`re the one who posted this thread asking for help. Seems you should have just went to you`re Tech from the get go and save us all a bunch of time...
Fix it, leave it, hmmm, what sounds good for dinner....
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Thanks for the help. I appreciate your willingness to reply to my thread. My tech has no idea what happened. Nor do I. I've heeded the warnings of others on the forum and any future suspension work will include new UCA's because I like to do things right the first time, but when get so many different accounts of how installs go its hard to say what will be the results until you try. Some say no need, some say must have. Oh well, thanks again.
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05-28-2014, 12:12 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Age: 48
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Sometimes I post a question, then I read a bit and post thinking out loud what could be an answer, nothing wrong with that in my mind. When you know enough to be dangerous you seek people that know more and have experience, there are so many smart folks on here that are amazingly helpful (if you search first). I suppose a post doesn't give tone and thought process and some could interpret it in a way not intended.
Anyway, I know nothing about why a spring would rub but I figure if
@ 1engineer
isnt making a crack or search comment you are doing just fine.
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2011 Silver LE, 3rd row, 285 GY Duratracs, Elka remote with adjusters/Icon Overland springs, SPC UCA's, RCI skids, Shrockworks step slider with OE Trail rockers, CBI rear bumper, Indel B fridge, SPOD, and more...
Build link:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...el-thread.html
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05-28-2014, 07:16 AM
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#20
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Moderator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Green Guy
Thanks for the help. I appreciate your willingness to reply to my thread. My tech has no idea what happened. Nor do I. I've heeded the warnings of others on the forum and any future suspension work will include new UCA's because I like to do things right the first time, but when get so many different accounts of how installs go its hard to say what will be the results until you try. Some say no need, some say must have. Oh well, thanks again.
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If you want to do things right then leave it stock, especially when you have to depend on the guys you have doing the install. Every vehicle is different though and there are cases, very few mind you, that you could not get positive caster without going to an aftermarket UCA. Most of the time you are going to lift it up a few inches, a good alignment shop is going to do a good alignment and bring you to 2.5-3 on caster, the install shop will know their asses from a hole in the ground and have done a good install and everything is good. Reading your original post led me to believe you were currently having a problem, not trying to do forensics on an already solved problem. The reason you were rubbing is a comedy of errors, not the wrong UCA. As a matter of fact if they HAD installed LR UCA's it could have really f'd up your day.
Last edited by 1engineer; 05-28-2014 at 07:18 AM.
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05-28-2014, 08:00 AM
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#21
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Thanks again guys.
I panicked when I saw the spring. All I could think of is I have to fix this. The reality of it is it drives straight, its stable on the highway and despite a lazy alignment shop with no print out and a mechanic who may or may not have been responsible for the spring hitting the UCA, I'm pretty damn lucky that there is nothing seriously wrong. Sorry if I wasted anyone's time. I appreciate all the input.
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05-28-2014, 09:48 AM
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#22
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Did you ever jack up the side in question to see if it is contacting? Then you will know if it was caused during install or not.
P.s. My 2cents, I suspect it is still contacting at full droop right now.
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05-28-2014, 12:15 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthWest 4R
Did you ever jack up the side in question to see if it is contacting? Then you will know if it was caused during install or not.
P.s. My 2cents, I suspect it is still contacting at full droop right now.
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Yes it did make contact at full droop. I also put it back on alignment machine to find camber at 1.0 both front and toe of .85 left and .45 in front. After they just did it on Friday. Shop owner was really understanding and we worked on it to get it into spec.
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05-28-2014, 06:53 PM
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#24
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Sooooooooo, what was the caster setting
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'12 SR5, Blizzard Pearl * Factory (style) Fog Light Switch-Fits knock-out! * 30" BD Stealth LED Light Bar, Upper Grill '12 SR5 * Reverse Light Mod-SR5 Factory Bumper * FN f(x) Pro Wheels - Custom Coating * LLumar Paint Protection/Tint, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Bilstein 6112/5160, LR UCA's, AirLift w/Load Control, 285/70/17 Nitto TG, LW's D2S 4.0 HID low beam mod, V-LED Interior/Reverse/LMZ High Beam/Turn Signals/V-6 DRL Lights (all 5000K), Kappa Dash/Doors/Hatch Speakers, CompuStar Remote Start, B&M Trans Cooler, Devil Horn Emblems, XB LED Fogs, Dongle Mod, TRD CAI, DC 270-XP Alt
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05-28-2014, 09:25 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryhiram
Sooooooooo, what was the caster setting
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It was 2.2 when we put it back on the lift this morning. After some guidance from forum suggestions we were able to achieve this...
0.2 camber left and right = 2.9 caster left and right
Toe .05
Any lower camber resulted in much lower caster.
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Last edited by The Green Guy; 05-28-2014 at 09:30 PM.
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08-07-2015, 12:48 PM
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#26
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but Green Guy, what ended up being the issue, & how did you get it fixed? Did an alignment fix it, reindexing coils, or new UCA's? I'm having the same problem now!
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03-28-2020, 10:40 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maulihiwa
Sorry to revive an old thread, but Green Guy, what ended up being the issue, & how did you get it fixed? Did an alignment fix it, reindexing coils, or new UCA's? I'm having the same problem now!
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Sorry for bringing this back from the depths but did you solve your issue? I'm having it too after removing the sway bar
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09-27-2020, 11:53 PM
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#28
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I'm having the same problem now as well. Are new UCA's necessary?
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