I got 4+

With about 2.5” of lift I was at like 2.9-3.5ish which was great. Once I replaced my coilovers and went up 1/2” I couldn’t get to 1, they had more built in just not enough. Remember every truck will be a little different. They were solid though, all the winters and off-roading and once I cleaned them up they looked great. Earlier Camburg uca were more notorious for not having enough caster built in from what I’ve read. Mine were at least 6 years old.

I believe my caster is just about 3.5. I don’t think my alignment shop even adjusted that as I recall the as found and as left being pretty much the same on caster. This was when I installed this early 2017 and took it in for alignment. Agree the Camburb have been very solid with zero issues.

I got 3.5 caster also with the Camburg balljoint UCA.

Today I had them removed and had JBA UCA installed. My passenger side balljoint had play and was making a clunky noise going over bumps. The JBA makes the front end much tighter and feels stiffer at the steering wheel. I could of just replaced the Camburg ball joint but my Camburgs seen it's last days. It was time to replace the UCA's. My Camburgs rubber bushings were in good shape cause I always sprayed them with silicone spray. My balljoints were shot. Only had 16k miles on them.

Gotta go for new wheel alignment, I bet I get 4.0-4.5 with the JBA.

@propain , what JBA did you go with? The regular or the HD? Any input on wheel clearance difference between Camburg and JBA? I haven't done my research on JBA for longevity, but considering possibly making the switch. I like the idea of easy to replace ball joints, but only if they are fundamentally stronger than Moog.

I went with the JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms for Toyota Tacoma "05" Plus, 4Runner "03" Plus, FJ Cruisers "07" Plus.

JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms for 2005-14 Toyota Tacoma, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser

I am on a 2-1/2 to 3" OME BP-51 lift with stock TRD Pro wheels (7"), running 285/70/17 Firestone M/T2's. It's kinda tight but I am not rubbing at full lock and do not require the 1.25" spidertraxx wheel spacers i purchased. I am going for my new wheel alignment tomorrow.

If you have no rubbing issues with the Camburgs now, you shouldnt have any issues with the JBA's. You may lose 1/4 of an inch if that due to the fins on the JBA, but i think you will be fine.

@Gclark949 , what size are your tires?

@propain
I am on stock size tires with FN wheels which have I think 4.5" back spacing. I am sure I would be fine according to their web site, but never like the idea of getting too close to the tires for reasons of snow/mud whatever that builds up on the tires during wheeling. If I ever put chains on those would go on the rear anyway.

265/70R17 Equal 31.6".

Any tire that is 32" diameter and smaller there is no fitment problem. You'll be more than fine. You will instantly feel the difference from the Camburg to the JBA. Much better feel from the JBA.

I have Camburg upper arms in my ‘03 and trying to release the ball Joint from
The knuckle is proving to be impossible, a pickle fork won’t even budge it.
I guess the third attempt I make in a few days I will try beating the knuckle with a hammer.

I am quite disappointed that even though I have a lift my truck it never sees off road and yet in 30,000 km (18,000 miles) I need to replace a ball joint.
I thought Camburg UCA’s would adjust the ball joint angle to release the pressure on the upper ball joint but they really don’t, they eliminate the interference between the stock upper control arm and the spring but they don’t adjust for the ball joint angle.

I don’t feel like paying mechanic $100 to replace a ball joint when I have all the tools to do it.
If I get the ball joint out of the knuckle is there a trick to getting it out of the arm? I saw a video where the mechanic cut the shaft of the ball off which seems really dumb to me.
Also, if I can get it out of the knuckle I can take the control arm to the machine shop I work at and use the hydraulic press to remove it.
Any thoughts on getting it out of the knuckle first?

its a taper fit. like every ball joint ever. smack the sh1t outta the knuckle with a 5lb hand sledge. make sure you leave the nut a thread or two on the ball joint so it stays connected when it finally releases. yes, they can be a pain.

to remove the ball joint there will be a circlip/snap ring. after that you need a big socket to fit over the ball joint so when you hit it, it's applying pressure equally, that will press the ball joint out of the control arm. otherwise a press works better.

when you install the new ball joint make sure you coat the inside of the cup it sits in (the round piece on the control arm that the ball joint goes into) with anti seize, or else you[ll have a heck of a time removing it next time)

your ball joint being at an angle doesnt matter. they have more articulation than the suspension can handle. it's just part of the game of running aftermarket parts.

and yeah, i've done my Dirt King ball joint control arms a couple times as well. if you dont think you have the tools to press out the ball joint, take the arm somwhere. you dont want to be stuck working on it sunday night at 10pm needing the car monday at 5am. lol

(pressing the new one in is simple tap it in with the appropriate socket and deadblow/hand sledge)