I think I may need a new Alt. My Alt. shows 13.7-14 when I start up in the morning and soon after it drops as low as 13.3-13.4.
I just needed to replace my main battery and did a parasitic draw test and was only registering appox. 20-60ma.
I let a relative use the car and then it wasn't driven for 5-6 weeks. It had to be jumped again and again and wouldn't hold a charge. I don't know what was done as I wasn't there. I had to come back from work to get it going. ( I travel and work car shows around the country). When I got home I tested the battery and it only shows only 6 amps.
I have the 130 AMP Alt.
I took it to two different Advance Auto stores. One said everything was working fine. Second store it wouldn't register the Alt.

Any suggestions or help would be great.

My recommendation? Lets start with proper english. ;)

"What is your battery voltage when the engine is running?"

There are a lot of factors here, too many to give you a consistent answer. In all seriousness on my recommendation, go to a proper automotive electrical repair shop or one that sells a lot of batteries and have them test it. Not the untrained idiot pushing the battery cart thats in unknown condition at Advanced Auto Parts.

I hope things work out for you. Let us know what you find.

Hi ejason,

I think Keith is spot on point! You need to have a proper test to determine what's going on, but my best guess (w/minimum parasitic current leakage) ...I'd say that your battery is shorting internally; draining between the cells.

Have it tested at a legit shop and go from there. Rgds!

Just about every Asian vehicle I've owned read 14.2v - 14.3v with engine idling first thing in the morning.

My 2014 Tacoma SR5 reads 13.9v doing same test and it has been this way from day 1. Not saying I believe there's an issue, just pointing out my findings.

You mention the vehicle being inactive for a good period of time; then bring up a parasitic draw test? In my humble opinion, there's no relation.

Real parasitic drain deep sixes a battery quickly....overnight to maybe a couple of days or slightly more.

In my experience, parasitic drain is the result of post-purchase electrical add-ons/swap outs....radio/alarm/etc.

Those voltage readings are normal. Did you replace the battery or not? (I can't tell from your post). It is not uncommon for an automotive battery to have no charge after 5-6 weeks of the vehicle not being driven. It sounds to me like your battery is dead from a lack of maintenance and charging. That's not the alternators fault if the truck wasn't driven for over a month.

As others have said - go to a reputable shop and have them check the whole charging system. There are testers that can check your battery, charging system, load the alternator etc. It will determine if you have a problem. Auto parts stores do not have this kind of equipment.

IMO parasitic draw is defined as electrical draw form systems that never shut off. The clock for example - or devices with volital memory. If you have an add on device connected to the battery side of the system and bypass the ignition switch it will be powered all the time and cause draw from the battery too.

How old is this vehicle and battery? Batteries are good for 3 - 4 years generally.

Thanks for some of the responses. It is a brand new Diehard platinum. I had the old battery tested and is was bad.
I thought the auto zone/ Advance Auto test was good enough. I will now take it to a shop for a better test, thanks for the advice.
The reason I asked about what other 4runners are registering was because I wanted to get a range to gauge my truck. I was curious if anyone else was registering mid or low 13's.
I travel for work most of the year hitting car shows ( Good Guys, NSRA, and such). I've left vehicles for months before and usually never have a problem.
I brought up parasitic draw to show nothing is pulling on the battery.

I will be back in NJ at the end of the month and get it checked out.