Sounds like he wants to install them the way he wants, not the way you want!

just sayin'

At first i told him, i wanted them ON when i turn the headlights ON. Then i went to grab a cup of coffee, then approached him. Asked him how about we add a switch to it. Thats what transpires the conversation above. It was my fault.

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Another markers from Amazon.



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Amber LEDs from Superbrightleds.com

Attached Images

 

I used these cheap amber LED "eagle eye" bolts from ebay, about $3 each when purchased in bulk. They have clear lenses with an orange shine.



When turned off, they reflected the sun and looked like shiny white spots during the day. They were also ridiculously bright at night when turned on, totally outshining the factory marker lamps.

To tone it down, I spray painted several layers of matte black Plasti Dip over the lenses, using a tiny strip of blue painters tape to partially mask off the middle...



The result is somewhat of a dark "stealth" look, but plenty bright when turned on.

Here's the view from afar:



Turned on:

secretskwirrel

Are those bolts threaded to fasten from the rear? Could you provide a link? I looked up Eagle Eye on ebay but it is difficult to tell how they fasten.

Here's a link to some on ebay. Looks like they're getting cheaper... less than $2 each...

10x 3K Amber Yellow 23mm 12V Motor Car 9W LED Eagle Eye Fog Driving DRL Lights | eBay



As far as mounting in the grill, for the two side LEDs, I used the head of the LED bolt against the front of the grill and a stainless steel washer (Plasti Dipped flat black) against the back of the grill, secured with a hex nut.

For the center LED, the head of the LED bolt didn't have anything to contact, so I added a black washer in front of the grill as well as the back. Here's a quick whiteboard diagram:



I also used same size black polyurethane washers where the stainless steel washers meet the grill in order to help absorb vibration and give the bolts and washers some extra grip. You can get them from the special hardware drawers at the hardware store or at a hobby shop.

Kinda new to all this electrical work. Most of the add circuits I find are 10A amp. Would this work or does it really need to be 15A amp?

Add up the total amperage for the lights you want to install, that should be your fuse rating.
On a 12 volt system, a 10 amp fuse will equate to 120 watts..., do these 3 markers rate at 40 watts each?

At 13.4 volts, a 10 amp fuse will equate to 134 watts..., do these 3 markers rate at 44.6 watts each?

I would think the answer would be no to both questions.......

You only need a fuse size the size of the amperage draw or slightly above.
Please correct me if I am wrong.


My LED LIGHT BAR is 120 watts !
DISCLAMER: I am not an electrician, so research the answer before you follow any electrical suggestion from me!!!

I bought 2 (Grand General 77650 Amber Thin Line 6-LED Marker and Clearance Sealed Light) which are the ones the original question was about. I didn't realize until after they were delivered that their was no info about the wattage. If your light bar is only 120 watts then something tells me these two markers would be safe on a 10A amp fuse.

Thanks for your help. I use your build thread a lot for inspiration as well as information!

You could do a test with an amp meter or....
wire them up OFF the vehicle, start with the lowest fuse you have and work up slowly until it does not blow the fuse.
I would start with a 1 amp fuse.

I don’t think Marker Lights mean what you guys think it does.



(My Ford F250, not 4R)

Just curious, has anyone used these on their 4R?

www.f150leds.com

Hmmm,
F150 parts on a T4R?

Blasphemy!

Lol!

I'm pretty sure the idea of lights in the grille came from the Ford Raptor lol!. Plus I don't think they are OEM Ford parts.