So, I can't find this on the forum and apparently I don't know how to search for it online. I've seen a few things here and there, but nothing very clear.

So I got this super gay and AWESOME OPT7 LED Interior light kit Amazon.com: OPT7® Aura LED Glow Interior Lighting Kit - Full Color Spectrum - 4 Smart-Color? Strips - Plug n Play - E-Z Remotes: Automotiveand installed it in the minivan for the kids (okay... for me too). They don't know it yet, but when we take our trip I'm going to surprise them by cranking the music up and hit'n the lights on... I digress.

My question is when I install those on my Pro how do I tie in to the dome light so when I open the door the HIDs come on?

Isn't there an easy way to do this. Could I just use the same fuse as the dome, or do I need to tie into the actual wire for the dome light?

Hi kittyhawksurf,

In this case (unfortunately), there's a bit more to "Accessory circuit layering" then that. Tying your new lighting kit into the 'Courtesy/Dome' fuse 'Alone' Will Not provide simultaneous operation of the 'Opt7 kit' and 'Dome circuit'. Because your truck's electrical system is built on a Ground-side-switching platform, you'd need to tie your kit into the 'Dome circuit' Gnd switch.

The other problem that I anticipate is... The new accessory's Load size, and the way that the 'ON/OFF' switching here is done. The courtesy circuit (if you've noticed), doesn't just switch ON, switch OFF as is done in more conventional automobile lighting systems. These days, Toyota (as well as many other sophisticated luxury vehicles), is implementing a 'Proportional process' (soft start) lighting system; which means your interior lighting e.g., Instrument cluster, Courtesy circuitry, map-lights, foot-lights, dome, spotlights... will RAMP upwards and downwards; as opposed to 'CLICK-ON/CLICK-OFF' as they have done in the past.

I took a look at the Opt7 kit that you've posted; nothing wrong with the brand... I'm more concerned about it's power consumption. There is a limit to how much 'Current/Amperage' you can place directly atop of any existing circuit, and this circuit's 'ground-side' is 'Completely' managed by the 'Main body ECU network' processor board. I would have suggested using a 12V 'Load baring' relay; which could be 'triggered' by the dome light circuit but there's that 'proportional processing' (variable voltage)...

Case and point: ...I believe that there is a way that your plan can be executed, but perhaps a little more... 'exploration' would prove profitable, Rgds!

Wow. Thanks so much for taking the time to post that explanation. I'm going to have to read it several times just to totally understand it and digest it. I will reread, reread and do more research. Thanks again.

Hi kittyhawksurf,

I'm glad you'll take something away from my 00.2 cents; not meant to be disappointing or discouraging! Just one thing to keep in mind when approaching 'Ground-side-switching' electrical systems... The 'Load' i.e, Pwr Window, Pwr Door-locks, or your Headlights, will be 'HOT AT ALL TIMES' whether on or off; provided the main power supply is made available. So tying another accessory to it's designated power supply line (power wire) will prevent any 'OFF CYCLING' of the new accessory Indefinitely!

Cheers

Right on man. Okay. So I just watched a video on "Ground Side Switching." That makes so much sense now. Learning some of this side of it is going to help me tremendously when I take on the challenge of adding a LED bar or other lights.

Hi @kittyhawksurf ,

If you haven't begun your Dome light/LED project yet, this may be helpful. The link below is a 10-30Vac/Vdc x 10A 'relay-in-a-box'; which I believe may be suitable for dome light circuit triggering. I don't know the current draw spec on your LED accessory circuit, but if it's more than 10A you can 'Piggy-Back' a larger relay on top of the one in the ad below to use as a redundant trigger device, or choose a different one. I'm leaving you with the Courtesy light wiring diagram to illustrate a simple scheme that 'should work' w/o complication; "See tie in drawing at the bottom".

http://www.functionaldevices.com/pdf...ets/RIBU1C.pdf



If you have any trouble following my tie in drawing, just hit me up here or shoot me a PM!

Rgds!

Whoa! So cool!! Thanks for posting that. I got all my interiors switched to LEDs but I haven't installed the Opt7 kit yet for 2 reasons:

1. I was still stuck on how to trigger it with the door.

2. When the second Opt7 kit came in the mail I installed that one in our minivan too. So I have 8 LED strips in there. I surprised my kids with it the day before yesterday and the loved it. It's like a dang rave party in there!

I'm out of town right now but I'll see if I can comprehend this drawing when I can access it through my laptop.

Thanks again @rigtec !

Super nice man.

So glad to hear that it's all coming together bro! Now there's just one other thing... Where are the photos? "...considered mandatory around here..." LOL!

Cheers

Any updates on your project? I'm working on something similar. Picks would be great!

I actually installed it in my wife's minivan (2009 Honda Odyssey), but then we just bought a new 2016 Odyssey a few months ago.

I loved the way the lights worked out. I actually bought two OPT7s and installed one in the front and one in the back section. The wires were very well hidden and everything worked as expected EXCEPT the lights that were supposed to change to the music. I still loved it thought and so did the kids. I wasn't 100% top quality, so I didn't put it in the 4Runner, but I still think it is a great kit.

I don't have pictures, but there are a bunch on youtube. Here is the link to see the kit on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh, but never installed it to work with the door. Just turned it on and off as needed and used the fuse that made sure it wouldn't drain my batter if left on. Only worked when ignition was on.