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Old 07-11-2015, 02:36 PM #1
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Trailer running lights/fuse question
Does anyone know what fuse would affect trailer running lights? Been chasing an electrical problem and it looks like the 4Runner plug isn't putting power to the running lights pin but can't figure out which fuse corresponds to it.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:57 PM #2
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I don't know the location number off hand. It's a 30 amp in the engine bay fuse panel.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:00 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mc813 View Post
Does anyone know what fuse would affect trailer running lights? Been chasing an electrical problem and it looks like the 4Runner plug isn't putting power to the running lights pin but can't figure out which fuse corresponds to it.
Check to see if any of the pins on your trailer light plug are bent. I've had bend pins back into position before.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:01 PM #4
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Does anyone know what fuse would affect trailer running lights? Been chasing an electrical problem and it looks like the 4Runner plug isn't putting power to the running lights pin but can't figure out which fuse corresponds to it.
The fuse you're referring to is under the hood (Engine room) and labeled Towing tail fuse 30A. it would seem to me that if that fuse were blown, not only would the 'running lights' be out but ALL trailer electrical function would be disabled; would it not?

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Old 07-12-2015, 01:45 AM #5
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thanks guys; brake lights, turn signals, etc all work, except running lights. Hooked it up to a buddy's truck and it worked no problem. I'll check the fuse in the AM.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:23 PM #6
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Let me know if you figure out the issue. I just had this same issue start over my vacation. Of course I was towing a trailer to figure the issue out, but it made my need to avoid driving in the dark a major issue. Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:55 PM #7
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I went out and checked, it was a blown fuse. It's a green 30 amp in the second to last row away from the battery. Good luck.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:18 PM #8
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I was installing a set of backup lights today and noticed one of the wires was dead (harness was removed and didn't check the pins yet, checked the reverse wire with a multimeter), 1 checked the pins and one was bent in touching the reverse pin, 2 checked the towing reverse light fuse and it was blown.

Wouldnt hurt to peek into the 7 pin socket to see if you have a bent pin. Towed my trailer earlier this week and everything seemed normal, I forgot to check the reverse lights.
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:08 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeDreams View Post
I went out and checked, it was a blown fuse. It's a green 30 amp in the second to last row away from the battery. Good luck.
Yep, blown 30A fuse in the box in the engine, "towing tail" as rigtec said. Replaced (it was blown) and everything works again.
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:30 AM #10
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Update here, blew the dang fuse again when putting my boat in the water. Apparently this is just something I am going to have to deal with. I would just not plug the connector in to the hitch, but then I would have to strap the reverse pin in place which is next to impossible to get it to stay in correctly. I can't find anywhere that water is getting in to exposed wires....this is frustrating to say the very least. The fuses are about $4 each and not so easy to find in bulk for a decent rate.
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:39 PM #11
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Update here, blew the dang fuse again when putting my boat in the water. Apparently this is just something I am going to have to deal with. I would just not plug the connector in to the hitch, but then I would have to strap the reverse pin in place which is next to impossible to get it to stay in correctly.
If you only want to connect the 'Brake-light' pins (HOT/GND), pick up a trailer hitch extension kit ($6.00) from AutoZone, cut the other wires that are Un-needed; leaving only the brake lights functional. Cap off the unused wires and plug in the extension.

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"...I can't find anywhere that water is getting in to exposed wires....this is frustrating to say the very least..."
Water is probably NOT causing a dead short across the hitch plug, as a 30A current draw would be hard to imagine at 12V through water... ...I would look for something else that may be shorting to Gnd.

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Old 07-28-2015, 02:57 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec View Post
If you only want to connect the 'Brake-light' pins (HOT/GND), pick up a trailer hitch extension kit ($6.00) from AutoZone, cut the other wires that are Un-needed; leaving only the brake lights functional. Cap off the unused wires and plug in the extension.
I probably wasn't clear enough, sorry. I am not as concerned about the lights as I am the ability to put the truck in reverse and not have my compression brakes on the boat trailer prevent me from backing up. In order to prevent this, you only have two choices use a trailer plug adapter that has a 4 pin connection (4th being the one that controls the brakes) or manually insert the metal stopper in the compression slide on the trailer to prevent it from compressing and engaging the brakes and stopping any movement in reverse. Thanks for your insight as well!
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Old 11-08-2020, 02:56 PM #13
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im having problems with the driver side trailer lites on my 2000.any thoughts where to start. thanx
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