Getting a Front Runner Full Length Rack on a 5th Gen. Part 2!

After a few weeks and a thousand miles, the rack is still perfect! No issues!

Step 1: Remove the Old Stuff
Follow this post to help if you need it - DIY: Roof Rack Delete (w/ pics) Now decide if you will keep this thing, try to sell it, or recycle it.

You can remove the rubber stripping in the rain gutter. You will need the front sections later to finish of the front edge.

Step 2:Build the Rack
Build the rack! Nothing special, just follow the instruction that came with the rack. Use a blanket or two to cover the floor so you don't get scratches.

Step 3: Measure the drill holes
Ok this is the part that I did the hard work on. To be just like me, starting at the the end you will put nearest to the rear measure and mark 5", 7 1/4", 56" and 58 1/4. From the front measure and mark 3". You can follow my measurements above, but I would propose a change. Let me caution you, I have not tried these new measurements so no guarantees. You can stick with what I just told you and you will be fine. I honestly believe this change will make life easier, but i could be wrong. Now I will tell you what I wish I had done. Move every measurements 2" forward so 2", 5 1/4", 54" and 56 1/4 and 1" from the front. This would decrease the extra track in the rear and give a bit more length in the front. This may possibly solve the fact that my rack feet straddled the factory holes. Making it hard to insert the stud plates. My original measurements did this-



It's possible that moving the 2" will fix this issue above and allow for the front foot to actually tie directly into the 2nd cross bar and not between the 2nd and 3rd. I used the Front Runner Between Slat Foot Adapter RRAC021 to place the front foot between the 2nd and 3rd cross bars.





Step 4: Drill the tracks

Using a pilot bit first drill from the inside of the track, using the center line to help stay centered. A total of 5 holes on each track. I used a 11/32 bit as my final bit size. This was enough diameter for the M8 bolts.



Step 5: Customize your M8 Bolts

The heads on the M8 bolts will not fit in the track width. I used my grinder and squared of the heads so the fit. Just hold with a pair of liars and grind a few seconds on opposite sides, this will give you just enough space for the heads to drop into the track. You can see the heads edges in the 2nd picture in step 3. You will need 10 M8 bolts like this.

Step 6: Test fit and mark for front drill hole

You can place the tracks over the factory holes and install one of the bolts to hold it in place. Now push down on the front track and mark the location of your front drill hole in the rain gutter. I centered the mark in the gutter. Now take the tracks back off.

Step 7: Drill the front hole

This will probably be the most nervous you get, don't worry. I used a fresh 11.0mm Diameter Drill Bit and drilled the front hole. This is the exact size for the rivnuts I used. Made for a good tight fit when inserting the rivnuts. Only needed a minute on each side. Nothing appeared under the metal and the bit easily drilled. (I don't imagine any different result with the new measurements, but I have not drilled that exact location.)

Step 8: Insert Rivnut
OK I used the rivet tool that Front Runner provided. I had to grind off a half inch on each side of the M8 side to fit in the rain gutter. You could do this, or try a homemade rivet setup that you can find on the web. Just need something that will fit in the narrow gutter.



I strongly recommend that you practice a few rivnuts before you try for real! You don't want to not have a good seated rivnut and have to cut out a failed one. Learning the proper direction of force and the number or times you need to turn the rivnut to properly compact it is important. The type of rivnut can vary.

Before I inserted the rivnut I applied some marine grade silicone to the opening and around the edge of the opening.



OK Now Take a brake and have beer! Part 3 is next!

Getting a Front Runner Full Length Rack on a 5th Gen. Part 3 of 3!

Step 9: Install feet on rack

Install the upper half of the feet onto the rack, save the lower part for the tracks. leave the feet loose so they can slide during install on the roof. Back foot on the last rear slat bar , the one that hold the back edge. Another foot every 3rd slat. the front foot between the 2nd and 3rd slat using the Between Slat Foot Adapter.







Step 9: Install the tracks

The M8 Stud Plates for the feet (the things that slide into the tracks) are too thick to slide over the M8 bolt heads. I don't think an M8 bolt head is made that would allow it to slide. So you need to plan ahead! If you followed my original measurements you will need to slide 4 stud plates between the location of the front and rear factory rack mounts, and one stud plate between the rear and 2nd from rear bolts in the 2 1/4" space. The other two stud plate you can insert after you have the bolts screwed in as they can slide from he rear and the front. (If you go with the new measurements I believe you need 6 stud plates between the two factory rack holes.

I used spacer between the track and the screw holes like this:

Not sure they are really needed or make a difference, but it reduces the area between the holes and the tracks due to the rain gutter depth.

I applied marine grade silicone on each opening that was getting a bolt.

Cut the weather stripping that was originally in the rain gutters so that the front edge still fits and enough material goes back to just in front of the rivnut. You don't need the stripping in the rest of the area.



Bolt the tracks in, (Remember the Stud Plates need to be on the correct side of each bolt, if not you will need to remove the bolt to move the stud plates later) starting with the rear and finishing with the front rivnut. The front will get pulled down with the bolt installed.



Step 10: Install the lower part of the feet in the track

Install the lower part of the feet into the track into the stud plates. Keep the bolts loose so you can slide the feet to match the rack. Don't tighten any of the feet until you are happy with how the rack sits. You can now follow the rest of the front runner instruction to finish the install.

You will need at least one other person to get the rack on the roof, and if you can afford the beer more people wold be great! It's big and if you truck is lifted it is very tall!


Now go enjoy your new Front Runner Slimline II Rack!

I got my Icon Stage 5 Installed with over-landing springs and 285/70/17 KO2s! I will update with pics soon!

thanks for detailed write-up! confidence gained! time to go drill....

We rentend a Tepui / MOAB Fort XL trailer form Bivouac Camping Trailers for a long weekend. First we checked out Ashurst Lake and Kinnikinnick Lake near Mormon Lake. Than we went over to Dogtown Lake near Williams, with a day trip to White Horse Lake. Came home via the Perkinsville road through Jerome. Used our new Sunseeker awning with extension. The trailer was great!

Good job on the rack. Probably the way I would go if I did not have the GOBI.

And man I want a trailer bad.

Good start to the build.

I don't usually say this to dudes but, "Nice Rack."

Awesome build so far man! You're brave for drilling into a $40k truck. haha but it turned out awesome. Definitely excited for my new rack setup as well.

I had 3/4 Front Runner Rack which had some pros and cons for me, in the end I sold it and got GOBI Stealth. In my opinion gobi is a better rack but that's just my opinion. Enjoy your GOBI with no regrets

Awesome build so far man! You are probably one of the first ones to have to Full Length Front Runner Rack and im glad they gave in to going full length. Also Love the trailer

Nice write up ... not sure which way on the fence it put me, i was looking at the rack but seems like there is a lot of extra fab work involved. its either this or a K9 since this is not on there website what was the price tag if you don't mind me asking

Can you elaborate? I'm leaning towards the 3/4 Frontrunner and would love to hear your take.

I pm'ed you because I don't want to post big paragraph on why I chose GOBI after Fron runner in someone's build thread lol

Can you forward that PM to me?

Thanks.

From Overland Expo, did the course with no problems. New 23 Zero tent that survived the crazy wind! Also my custom made Maxtrax rack for the Frontrunner.

Love your rack @Gormo ! After much research, I'm leaning towards a full length front runner like yours. Bryan Rush at Front Runner said to check back soon for details on an official release for the 5th gen full length kit. I was originally looking at The Eezi Awn but the design elements of the front runner seem to be slightly better IMHO. I'm all about aluminum too. I've seen too many rusty Gobi's and steel racks, far too soon in their life.

Why did you choose front runner vs. K9?

Also without the XM shark fin on the roof, could your rack carry a table underneath or is there not enough clearance? I'm planning to relocate my XM antenna.

Thanks for sharing. Great stuff.