5th Gen Maintenance Documentation and Reference You can find this link in the "New Guy" sticky.

i guess i was hoping this would be referenced in the location you linked. this is going to become more and more common to replace the belt molding (aka window weatherstripping) as the 5th gens age.

Hey, nothing is stopping someone from adding it to that thread lol. The majority of people here want but are not willing to give. Present company excepted of course.

I have needed to replace front driver window rubber for a while now. Appears someone tried to get a coat hanger in to break in. Just found the piece on ebay for $48.78 and free shipping. This was the cheapest I have seen for the single part and wanted to share here. Search the part # 75712-35011 and you will see it.

Hoping it hasn't allowed enough water to get down in the door to damage anything. Anyone know if that is likely?

Many thanks to Chitown for this post. I had the same problem and this saved me a lot of hassle.

303 makes a weatherstrip protectant that comes in an applicator bottle similar to shoe polish.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0GmMzbZFMT3TG

It is unlikely you will need to replace the rear hatch window seal/weatherstripping. The weather stripping breaks in the thin, flexible spot. On the rear hatch weatherstripping this is protected from sun by hard plastic.

This part was only $20 at Camelback, but I suggest you check yours before purchasing this part.

Yes, avoid the rear hatch weatherstipping! It has a much more positive lock on the door panel and therefore is much more difficult to remove and much more risky than the other weatherstripping (you may damage the hatch body panel), and there should be no need to replace it!

I had already mangled the old weatherstripping a bit and was struggling with the decision to continue. I did get it off and it came off cleanly, but it takes force and commitment and it was scary. I started in the middle (both ends insert into the vertical side molding) and I applied a lot of force with my screwdriver inserted deep into the part.

AGAIN: I DOUBT THE REAR HATCH WEATHERSTRIPPING WILL FAIL BECAUSE THE WEAK, THIN PORTION OF THE RUBBER IS PROTECTED FROM SUN. AND IT IS MORE DIFFICULT AND RISKY TO REPLACE THIS PART.

First of all, thanks to all who contributed to this helpful post.

Just ordered all four belt moldings from toyotapartsestore.com. Price for all four was a little over $200. Just shipped yesterday so will put them on as soon as they come in.


As for the rubber on the liftgate release switch turning to mush, mine is actually dripping. I found just the replacement rubber (instead of replacing the entire switch) on amazon for $13.95. It's on order and should be in soon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...K8DDRQYKSTENMS

Just a word of caution.....A few days after I ordered the belt moldings from toyotapartsestore.com, I had some fraudulent charges on my debit card. Not accusing the website directly for the fraud, but there's a good chance they may have been hacked and customer info was stolen. Had to shut down my card and order a new one.

Hi all, quick question do I need to use some type of weatherstrip adhesive?

Just replaced all four belt moldings this morning. Took about 30 minutes. I wouldn't use any adhesive. If you have to replace them again, you may not be able to get them off.

Thanks for posting this. It was a great help. I didn't need a screwdriver, just used my hands. Whole job done in less than 15 minutes. I did the work in the morning so I will hold off on the adult beverage.

Thanks chitown616 for the photos and description, just replaced my driver side and doing the rest soon. Got it done quickly. I already had a set of plastic pry tools for working on interior and also applied masking tape on paint for a precaution. When I installed new part I applied some silicone spray to ease installation but it went in so easy I'm not sure that was necessary.
Thanks again.
2010 Trail.

For those looking to replace melted switch cover in rear hatch there is a page already in Forum: Help: Hatch Handle Melted

A YouTube video link is : YouTube

This can easily be done from outside.

A couple of updated tips...

1. Restating the above. - on side doors position your new tabs over the slots they need to fit into before you start pressing down to seat the entire belt molding. It presses on very easily so just get it aligned well right to left first.

2. A felt edge squeegee tool is ideal for this and including the rear hatch belt molding. Th e non-felt edge is soft and tapered. Once it is pushed up it will actually snap the side door belt moldings loose.

It will also pop the clip on the end of the strip right up. No issues at all. Just insert and push. You will hear the little snap sounds as you go. Then just slide it down the line. Then with both hands just pull up and roll forward on the entire strip.

3. Rear Cargo Door. Same felt squeegee but this time push it as far up as possible. You may hear a "snap". At that point the trim is still not loose bu the squeegee make a big space. Now with a wide pry tool wrapped in a rag push it up towards the roof and pry it a bit. You will hear a "crack" sound. Louder than the "snap". Do that the entire length.

Do not start in the middle. Start between the middle and either end. Do those areas. Then work towards the middle from both sides. The middle seems tighter for some reason.

My piece came off intact and could be reinstalled if need be.

On the front door pieces if you are saving them for emergency fix if they are not already torn up.... the point where strip joins the section with the rubber wiper will crack if you pry/bend it up very much at all.

So overall if you want to save these things or if happen to be doing junk yard pulls. You don't need to deform them much to get them off and the little 4" section with the clip will break where it joins the larger section with wiper so don't bend that area if you help it.

Possibly the easiest fix you could ever do. Here is the tool that seems designed for the job.

ebay link may expire. Just search plastic felt edge squeegee about $3 - $5. I suppose the plastics could vary. Mine was white and stiff but soft pliable tapered and rounded plastic front edge..... unlike the hard plastic auto pry tools.

On the rear hatch my big pry bar was actually a 18" metal one. But you don't really pry with it. You just want something wide with a somewhat dull edge ( wrapped in cloth ) and long enough to push upward in the gap the squeegee makes. It just pops those catches the last little bit.

https://tinyurl.com/yd5yagom

Thank You for this post. AZ sun has beat down on all my weather stripping and rear lift gate cover.