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Old 01-02-2016, 12:31 PM #1
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Rear window operation without accessory power

Happy New Years all!

I am wondering if there is a way to wire the rear window up and down switch to work without the key needing to be in the ignition. Since you can operate the window using the key lock on the back door, that would tell me that the rear window motor is always hot??? Could it be as simple as bringing a wire from the battery directly to the up/down switch???

Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:41 PM #2
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You can lower and raise the rear window with the truck off by putting your key in the back, turning, and holding it.
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Old 01-02-2016, 04:47 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radicalwillie View Post
Since you can operate the window using the key lock on the back door
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Originally Posted by camerontopa View Post
You can lower and raise the rear window with the truck off by putting your key in the back, turning, and holding it.
We did it! Great job, guys. Let's pack it up and move on. Case closed.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:37 PM #4
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Nailed it
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:48 PM #5
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Pull the interior switch out, check to see what wire is hot when key is on in ACC at that connection.

Disconnect that wire and connect +12VDC to that pin on the switch, your switch will then work at all times, regardless of whether your key is in the ignition or not.

Be forewarned, this is an easy way for people to steal whatever's back there! If you have a big sub box that won't fit though the cab and front doors, having that switch always hot will allow a thief to break in, roll window down, open tailgate and steal anything large back there.

EDIT: LOL! I thought this was a thread in the classic forum! Disregard the last paragraph about the tailgate!!!
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Old 01-02-2016, 10:59 PM #6
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Trade in on a Limited. It will work with the key in your pocket.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:40 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinhawaiian01 View Post
Pull the interior switch out, check to see what wire is hot when key is on in ACC at that connection.

Disconnect that wire and connect +12VDC to that pin on the switch, your switch will then work at all times, regardless of whether your key is in the ignition or not.
I was hoping it could be that simple, may have to pull apart the center console and give it a go.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:23 PM #8
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"Just a word of caution:"

The fifth gen 4Runner (All trim levels) power windows, power door locks, regulators, and integrated security system are completely managed and controlled by the Multiplex Network Door ECU and can-BUS systems. This system is also predicated on a Negative Switching Platform and so finding a 12VDC power supply at a switch doesn't tell you that it's coming directly from the battery or fusebox.

It's source is likely already flowing through a load (light, motor, circuit board... "hence the phrase 'HOT AT ALL TIMES'") and seeking a proper ground from the ecu and through the switch to complete that circuit. To feed it a 12V (bastard) line source from the battery or fusebox may burn the fuse, cause the ecu to lock-up, or much, much worse!

"Easy does it!"

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Old 01-04-2016, 09:10 AM #9
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Quote:
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"Just a word of caution:"

The fifth gen 4Runner (All trim levels) power windows, power door locks, regulators, and integrated security system are completely managed and controlled by the Multiplex Network Door ECU and can-BUS systems. This system is also predicated on a Negative Switching Platform and so finding a 12VDC power supply at a switch doesn't tell you that it's coming directly from the battery or fusebox.

It's source is likely already flowing through a load (light, motor, circuit board... "hence the phrase 'HOT AT ALL TIMES'") and seeking a proper ground from the ecu and through the switch to complete that circuit. To feed it a 12V (bastard) line source from the battery or fusebox may burn the fuse, cause the ecu to lock-up, or much, much worse!

"Easy does it!"

rigtec
Interesting insight, thanks for the explanation!
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:13 AM #10
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Yeah, Rigtec is definitely correct on this. No easy way to bypass the mpx system and really not worth the work to attempt.

You'd be better off putting a new center off dpdt switch in the dash, then trying to tap into the rear key's switch wires to do this. It would require you to either run new wires to that switch in the tailgate, or if you're lucky, find those wires to tap into somewhere up front.

Still not sure if you could do that either, as I have no idea what that switch looks like or how its tied into the system.
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:12 PM #11
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Why don't all the windows work without a key turned to accessory? Actually it won't even work on access. needs to go full ignition. If there is a logic behind this I'm failing to see it. How convenient that would be. This a nanny control thing?
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