[Friggin Idiot]

Air Lift Contd

To run back to near the tailgate I kept the line above the frame, zip-tied in a couple different places. I had to pull a couple screws, and push aside the underside strake to get the line where I wanted, but it worked nicely. I made sure to tap check where I wanted the line and drilled from the top down (simply because it's 100x easier given that location). The valve clears and isn't even visible with the liftgate fully closed.





Before putting the wheels back on and everything back together, I did follow Air Lift instructions and liberally spray a water/soap combo looking for leaks under pressure, thankfully finding none.
Once everything was reinstalled and cleaned up, I did a quick test run out to get lunch at 25psi. It felt a little too bouncy over uneven asphalt. I dropped it to 15psi and it felt much smoother, and nicer than stock even. Of course there was an electric dryer in the back of the truck for the whole install and running around. I'll post if I change to anything else with a mostly empty truck for my daily commuting and occasional towing needs. So far $80 and 4 hours well spent.
I did think ahead and order a better pressure gauge.

EDIT: As a daily driver, just me and my lunch, I tend to leave the air bags inflated to 10psi. It probably only needs 5psi on a regular basis, but I don't like having to drag out the compressor to air up while also adding the trailer. At 10psi that the rear doesn't drop when the trailer is on it, but not so bouncy during daily driving that I can't stand it. I do take it up if required, a trip to Tennessee required 15psi to ride evenly, but I was carrying half a dozen guns and 1200rds of ammo in addition to the other more traditional supplies.


More LED's
Finally got around to replacing the reverse lights with LED's. I don't know how I missed these or lived without them so long! What a huge difference using JDM ASTAR 921/912.

[Friggin Idiot]

Originally Posted by sp8ball

[Surgeon General's Warning: Modding your Toyota 4Runner can be dangerously addictive, and should not be attempted by people with compulsive disorders or other mental problems. (see: Sp8ball) Modding your 4Runner is a sickness, and should not be handled lightly. Clinical help may be required, or at least a call to A&E's "Intervention" television show. Wives should be involved in the process to moderate the spending and complexity of the project if these conditions exist. People with high cholesterol or a history of heart problems should not mod a Toyota 4Runner. Call your physician for any mod lasting longer than 4 hours.]

LMAO! So true. My life is lacking a better half, so there's not supervisory control on mods or spending. Unfortunately that means there's been a recent shopping spree, and my bank account is starting to feel the pain.

I had joined in on the DC Power Engineering Group Buy. Yesterday I had a local shop do the alternator swap and big three upgrade using 0 AWG. It was more than I was willing to take on. I'm pretty happy with the job they did, looks nicer than I would have worked out. I'll put in a bigger gel type battery later on, likely Die Hard.






I also am in on the Southern Style Offroad Slimline Hybrid Bumper Group Buy, which I had just missed out on last time. Of course, what bumper is complete without accessories? I decided to put off the winch purchase for now and get some good lights going, as I anticipate a need for lights sooner than winches. So there will be a Baja Designs OnX6 20" Driving/Combo almost flush mounted in the bumper.
In doing light bar research I had stumbled across the Baja Design Fog Light Kit for the 4Runner. With the front bumper already off for the bumper install, that should be a breeze. So the kit was tossed into the cart, along with a set of Baja Design Squadron-R Sport in Wide/Cornering Amber. This post explains why I selected these fog lights. ETA on bumper and lights is mid December, hoping I can convince family to help me do those installs while they're visiting for the holiday.

The light bar will be off-road and deserted back road use only, but the fog lights are street legal. But I've never been satisfied with the light output from the factory headlights, so I took advantage of the October sale at XenonDepot and picked up the Xtreme HID kit with Philips 4300K bulbs. They showed up Monday, and I should be able to knock out the install in an afternoon next time I get near my tools in storage.

As if that wasn't enough, I decided that I no longer like the nose low look of the 4Runner rake. So there's a Pro-Comp 2.25" Leveling Kit on the way, and an appointment at a local suspension shop to install it.

Upgrade addiction temporarily satiated. The winch will find itself later when I'm ready for it. I promise pics and descriptions as the upgrades come. Until then someone keep me off this forum so I can stop spending money!

[Friggin Idiot]

29Oct16 51,553mi
Given their recent degraded wet weather performance and consistent rough ride on E load, I gave up on the KO2's. Today the local Discount tire installed a set of 5 Cooper Discoverer AT/3's in 275/70R17 C load. They look a bit more soccer mom than the KO2's, but after my KO2 learning experience, I decided looks aren't everything. Of course the way @1engineer raves about them and his THIRD set, I was all but convinced I might crash in the snow without them! /sarcasm
Look for ride report updates as the mods continue.

This also caused a learning experience. I failed to consider what would happen with the air bags and spacers on the rear axle, and they shifted around some while the axle was at droop for the wheel removal. I convinced the guys in the shop to use a floor jack and lift it so I could rearrange things a little after I had deflated the bags. The bags didn't budge in the springs, but the spacers were easy enough to put back centered. I'm thinking I'm going to have to put some super velcro or double sided tape on them to hold them in place so I don't have to worry about it every time.

I also need to remember to deflate the bags prior to the shop getting it on the lift. If I leave the bags inflated then when the coils of the springs expand more of the bag fits between the coils and there's a chance they could be pinched or torn. If I deflate them I think any shift during drop and re-compression should work itself out as it drives once re-inflated. Upon re-inflation of the Air Lift to 15psi there was quite a bit of rear end lift, which lead me to think that is what was causing the seeming excessive 3" rake. I'm guessing I probably didn't need a lift (who really NEEDS a lift?), but should have just let some air out of the bags. So after the short drive home trying to gauge the different feel of the newer softer tires, I dropped the pressure to 10psi. I'll leave it there for a while to see how I like the ride. Since I already paid for the lift, I might as well install it (no returns on special order parts) and it's a small local shop. So I may be using the bags to level out the rear with the front. But more on the lift after install. Pics below taken with pressure at 15psi.

[Throwback]

Wow, those KO2s look like they have a ton of tread left. Can you elaborate on the wet traction issues please?

[LandCruiser]

Originally Posted by Throwback

Wow, those KO2s look like they have a ton of tread left. Can you elaborate on the wet traction issues please?

I think he's expecting too much from a tire that's on the MT side of AT.

[Friggin Idiot]

Originally Posted by Throwback

Wow, those KO2s look like they have a ton of tread left. Can you elaborate on the wet traction issues please?

Yeap, 12-13/32 of tread left, so they at least wear well. The wet weather concerns are in the 21k mi review of them I posted the other day.

Originally Posted by LandCruiser

I think he's expecting too much from a tire that's on the MT side of AT.

That may be possible, the only AT tire comparison I have is the old style Dick Cepek FC II's that were on my Bronco. I would consider them more MT style than the KO2 though. The FC-II didn't feel slick while cornering/braking on wet asphalt the way the KO2'S did, they didn't fair nearly as well on ice though.

[Friggin Idiot]

11/8/2016 51,938 mi

Reference: HID upgrade, which one to go with?
Part(s):XenonDepot's H11 Xtreme HID Conversion Kit +Philips 4300k Bulbs, no CANbus
Time: 1-3 Hours (depending on your cable management needs)
Cost: $180
Tools: Hook pick, 10mm box wrech, 10 & 12mm socket, 6+" socket extension, drill w/1" hole saw or dremel, small wire snips
Shop supplies: Zip ties, Extreme Velcro


Let's just say this mod was done as a result of seeing other pictures online, and feeling a lack of illumination when out in the middle of nowhere. Hence this is just step one in generating more light to project, some will be on road legal, some will not be.

I'd read good things about XenonDepot's H11 Xtreme HID Conversion Kit in the reference thread above, they always seem to be on sale and more than willing to support customers. I called twice with questions before ordering a kit, and then once when looking at the rather nondescript instructions included in the package. Every time I called, I was able to speak with a person during normal business hours and all my questions were answered with intelligent and in depth answers.
EDIT: I installed the XenonDepot HID kit in the Outbacks my mom & sister have, one of which didn't want to wait for the back-ordered Philips 4300k Bulbs. There's a noticeable difference in them. The Philips are brighter and the pattern more full, worth the extra money IMHO. [/edit]

So here goes, start by removing the radiator cover (step 1 one most anything on this truck). I'm getting better and better at it, using a small curved pick tool to pull up on the center tabs so that they are easy to reuse. Disconnect and remove battery (10mm wrench), unscrewed the weather covers over the headlight bulbs.
Drill a 1" diameter hole in roughly the center of the weather cover. I used a hole saw, but only because I had one in my toolbox, otherwise a dremel/rotozip might work well.



Do not touch the glass of bulb with anything, if you do wipe it off with rubbing/isoprophyl alcohol. Remove the plastic protection case and spacer from the bulb, run through weather cover, and install all in vehicle. The rubber grommet on the bulb wiring fits nicely in the 1" hole, but a 7/8" hole might be a more secure fit.



Now there are a thousand possibilities as to where to install your wiring. The Xtreme Kit includes the bulb/rubber grommet wiring, a ballast (grey metal electronic box), and a relay (small black plastic) (other users say this is optional).
Correct wiring (each side):
Factory plug to blue/black grommet wiring (inside weather cover)
Blue/Black grommet wiring (outside weather cover) to white/black wiring on relay
Relay connector to ballast connector
Ballast 2 piece connectors to bulb
The relay also has ring connectors to go to Battery Positive, and Body Ground

I strongly suggest connecting everything once bulbs are installed and verifying that it all works before continuing with mounting or using zip ties. I had no troubles, but better to find them before you get everything permanently mounted.

I decided I wanted to hide as much of the upgrade as possible. Out of curiosity I removed the rubber seal and plastic trim piece from the fender on both sides and found plenty of unused space to hide everything. To remove theses you need to slide them towards the windshield and gently pull a little to get the corners from under the lip of the fender. The retainer closest to the windshield in the wiper tray is the toughest, but still easy enough.

EDIT: How to remove/reinstall the fender trim/hood seal pieces
Removal
1) Remove radiator cover, the big plastic piece on top of the radiator
2) The very front of the hood seal tucks under the fender, push down on it and slide it towards the center of the vehicle. You just need to get it out from under the fender.
3) Then there's a recessed part of the plastic trim piece closest to the windshield, slide that towards the windshield first then up.
4) Slide the remainder of the hood seal piece towards the windshield

Reinstallation
1) Start with the recessed piece closest to the windshield, slide it on the post
2) The remainder of the long plastic trim, slide onto the 3 posts. It's ok for it to flex a little. It's also fine if you need to gently push aside the rubber hood seal to see and line them up. I found it's best to start closest the windshield and work forward. It may take a little sliding back and forth with pressure in the right areas to keep it down on the posts. Usually I will just barely start the rear post, and push down on the others to get them past the top of the post and started. Then pull the whole piece forward.
3) Don't forget to tuck the front end back under the fender
4) Reinstall Radiator Cover [/edit]

Then it's just a matter of connecting everything and running the wires where you want them. I elected to use the relays and connect the batt+ and body ground to them, even though other users suggest they aren't required. There's two body grounds (10mm) easy to get at on the driver's side next to the battery, so that side went very easily. From windshield to front, ballast, relay, and ballast bulb side box. The whole install is all but completely hidden once the fender seals were put back in place.




The passenger side body ground is a royal PITA with that pump in the way. So I used the 12mm socket and extension to remove the bolts holding the pump in place, and lifted it out of the way until my install was complete on that side. Reinstall the bolt at the fender windshield side first when putting it back in. Also have a magnetic retrieval tool ready in case it drops down underneath the tray the pump is mounted on. The passenger side not as hidden because of the run to the batt+. I elected to run mine across the back side of the center bumper instead of along the radiator support, heat and wires are a bad combination. So the relay is hidden using extreme velcro underneath the radiator support near the rubber bump stop for the hood. That limited where I would put the ballast, although I used the same location for the ballast bulb side box as I did on the driver's side. Zip ties on supports are easier and cheaper than extreme velcro.

[Friggin Idiot]

Since I knew I was going to be doing this I stopped the previous night at the mouth of the driveway with the front wheels in the gutter pushing against the curb. The lights are aimed low that way, but it gave me a physical feel to get to the same spot for a follow up picture. I didn't get the aim point exactly the same on before and after, but the distance should be the same to a few inches.

The pics are cell phone pics, but you can see there's a difference. The amount of that difference won't come through with auto exposure, so you're going to have to take my word it's more than what you see here.
Sorry I can't help the weather. It was cloudy and rainy for the after pics, also meaning there's some city light reflecting off of the clouds making it not as dark as the before pics.


Pics in order top to bottom
Stock Low
XD HID Low
Stock Low + Fog
XD HID Low + Stock Fog
Stock Low + High
XD HID Low + Stock High

[TRDZEB]

I did the same kit with the philips bulbs too. Could not be happier. I did have to aim them down a bit as I was getting flashed way too often.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Friggin Idiot]

11/17/2016 52,274mi

As posted above, I did end up ditching the E load KO2's and got a set of C load Disco AT3's instead. Since mounting them, on cold mornings on a rough section of road I'd noticed a large vibration at 60mph. I did have the shop re-balance the tires again (one had thrown a weight), but the vibration still existed. A bad shock was the only thing I could think of that would produce that much vibration, luckily I had already ordered the below. This weekend should tell whether or not a strut/shock was the problem.
EDIT: Strut/Shock was not problem, still have a wicked vibration at 60mph when tires aren't warm. Now I have to get up and go to Discount Tire early tomorrow to get them balanced for the 3rd time.

While I had previously been going down the road of some Pro-Comp 2.25" spacers for the front to eliminate the rake, I wasn't sure that was right for me. After some good discussion with @3wbdriver I was planning on going the OME route (shocks & 884's). But this level of suspension work is above my comfort level and tools I have on hand. I talked with a couple different local lift shops, none of which would install an internet purchased set nor carried OME. So instead I ended up with a new set of Rancho struts & shocks.

Rancho QuickLIFT RS999913/RS999914 for 2" of front lift
Rancho RS999305 for the rear shocks
Rancho rear spacer kit not ordered/installed due to the Air Lift kit I had already installed, which allows height/spring rate adjustment based on load.

Leaving my daily driver and only vehicle with the shop for a day I can deal with. Unfortunately one of the shop mechanics pretty much abandoned his job, leaving the shop behind schedule. They didn't even start on my truck until after noon the day after I dropped it off. So after several unplanned Uber rides for previous engagements, I managed to pick up the truck from the shop after hours last night. I then drove it up the highway 20 miles for an evening out, blinding people with headlights that just got the HID conversion and hadn't been adjusted for the lift.

I'm not going to comment much on ride difference until I have some miles on these. I'll be driving down to the TN mountains for the holiday and trying to break them in on a couple "roads" while there. The truck definitely sits better and rides differently. The nose dive tendency is diminished, and I feel a little odd not looking down at the road anymore.
The truck does pull to the left a little, and an alignment was first on the list of things to do today. Apparently Firestone Complete Auto Care is doing a big sale and it's going to be Saturday before I can get the truck in there.
Thanks to this thread for keeping me from flipping through the manual trying to figure out how to aim the headlights. I aimed them down at least 4" while in a shady spot, I'll check aim again in the dark after work tonight.

EDIT: 1k mi Ride quality update
Taking a few things into account here:
-the front struts are adjustable and were installed at the stiffest setting
-the front springs were replaced with the struts and are probably still not yet broken in
-rear springs were not replaced
I expect this will actually be a good modification for the truck. I like the front lift and level look, and this is the first vehicle I've ever done it to. The ride in the rear (empty or loaded) is very nice, stiffer than stock with less sag under weight, yet still responsive and smooth. The front is still stiff for the previously mentions reasons, however, I did feel a difference in ride after turning the struts to the lowest (softest) setting. I don't know that I would be able to feel a difference between any intermediate settings, but going stiffest to softest setting is noticeable. Given the performance of the similar series shocks on the rears, I expect the front will be similar and I will enjoy it even more once the springs wear in a little more. Until then there's still an occasionally jarring hit on a pothole, and some stiffness. I would compare it to going from the stock P Dueler's to an E load tire at 42psi.

[Friggin Idiot]

Took mom out for a peaceful drive through the deserted mountains of TN, even let her drive a bit of the easy downhill stuff. We both had a good time, at least until we got back to her house and had to pull half of a tree out of the driveway to get home (too dark for pics).
Google Route by no means a challenge for the 4Runner or me, but nice to get out and exercise the 4WD and 4Lo for a bit.










Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Friggin Idiot]

I pulled some things off the dashcam after the trip to TN

Driving along the light trails from the previous post, I wanted to test the 4LO settings. Although it looked a little steep, it was very dry, so it turned out to be much easier than anticipated, no slipping or spinning.


Just for reference this is coming down my parents' driveway daytime, then night. Night has a stop in the middle where mom picked me up after clearing some downed branches. Headlights are XenonDepot Xtreme HID and PIAA Xtreme White halogens for highbeam.

[Friggin Idiot]

12/26/2016 54,292 mi
@Southern Style Offroad
2014+ Slimline Bumper

@Baja Designs
OnX6 20" Driving/Combo (#452003)
Toyota Fog Light Kit (#447110)
Squadron-R Sport Wide/Amber (#587815)

I finally got a day where I had help, space, tools, and even warm weather to install the SSO bumper I picked up out of the last group buy. I've wanted one of these bumpers for about a year, and while there's no pressing NEED for one, who in this forum really NEEDS half of what we put on our trucks. That said I'm very pleased with the look and fit of the bumper. I didn't have time to fiddle with running the harness through the firewall for the OnX6, so it's not connected yet.
EDIT: BD Wiring harness switch install

I did get a jump start on the install, putting the light bar into the bumper a couple days before, along with a parts inventory. This meant I only had to bug someone for help for as long as it took to install the actual bumper. The OnX6 is a deep light bar, and I have some concerns about how close it may be to the winch when I get it. But I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. The guys at SSO were great at answering questions from pre-purchase through issues and install, even calling me Friday before Christmas after I had written an email late Thursday night. I'm always worried about how things will go when making a major purchase from an online company I haven't dealt with before, but can honestly say that SSO stands behind their product, and is great about product support too! A great big thank you to everyone at @SouthernSS I really wish that everyone would do business like they do!

The SSO directions did seem a little vague at times, and of course I also elected not to follow them at other times. @greatape , Removal of the existing plastic bumper is not optional, but it is a little easier than the instructions make it to be. Mine popped right off the truck as soon as I got the both corners near the wheel wells free. Reinstalling was a little more complicated, but basically it was just line up about there it goes and push the tabs you can't see back into place until they click. That part actually wasn't that difficult using the headlights as a guide for reattachment. I did end up removing and reinstalling the bumper a couple times due errors in my fog light installation, it looks no worse for the wear.

Check for all of your tools before starting. I managed to leave my dremel tool at my apartment 90 minutes away from my sister's house where I was doing the install. (I had used it to polish the trigger on a friend's AR) I realized this the night before my install and managed to borrow my brother's Dremel Trio. Unfortunately it didn't have the proper shim for the 1/8" shank for the ripsaw blades. I ended up putting the bit into a regular drill and dealing with it instead of running to the store to buy another dremel or adapter. @NutZac This made me more nervous about cutting the bumper, I certainly would have felt better if I had a proper dremel.
There were some things that helped with the nerves, make a few mental decisions prior to even putting the ripsaw blade into motion:
1- Plan a practice cut in the bumper, in the blank area behind what would be covered by the Silver Trail valance (sorry SR5 guys, not an option). That way if it wasn't controllable or really ugly I could always put the bumper cover back on and put it back together.
2- Cut small, cut inside of your marking, not on or outside of it. It's always easier to take more off than it is to try and put some back!
3- Only aim to cut about 2-3" at a time. This makes it easier instead of trying to worry about how straight that long cut will be.
4- Also consider that there will be some small errors which would be easily covered by the trim piece included in the kit.
5- I considered a glass of whiskey before cutting, but decided against it better to keep my fine motor control.

EDIT: As an extra precaution, I didn't cut a single thing until I already had the SSO bolted to the truck. That way if there were any issues with fitment or alignment I could remove it and reinstall everything OEM and deal with the bumper itself and not have a gaping hole in the front of my truck. You should also take a wire brush and a bottle of dish soap solution and clean out the front your A/C condenser while you have the bumper off.

The hardest part of cutting was actually the vertical cut along the edge of the bumpout. I made the cut, then went back and cut again and again to free the center section. Then had to flip the bumper back to the front and clean up the ragged cut. I would suggest adding a razor blade or sharp knife to the tools needed in order to clean up the rough edges, melted plastic, and smooth out any cuts that don't come out straight the first time. Most of all, go slowly! It's easier to make multiple cuts than to have the saw go wild and end up with a gouge somewhere you didn't want one. I thought about sanding the edge a little smoother, but didn't waste the time since it was covered by the edge trim.

I removed the baffles for the A/C condenser, and had every intention of cutting the bottom of them off so that they would work with the bumper. Unfortunately by the time I had remembered that I'd already put away my cutting tool. So I left them off completely. They weren't very simple to get off, there's a plastic pop-rivet in the inside center of each one that I didn't see until I went hunting with a flashlight for how to get them off. They also have two tabs each that go towards the rear of the vehicle to hold them in place. Also be careful because those lines in front of the condenser bend out of place very easily, I could see them breaking if you're too rough getting the baffles out.

EDIT: Take the time and cut the the baffles! After a year without them in my wheel well liners were getting pushed into the wheel well by the extra airflow resulting in tire rub. The A/C also runs cooler with them in place. You will need to trim off the entire lower arm for the passenger side, about 1/3rd of the lower section on the driver's side, and both sides require some trimming at the bottom rear (towards the frame and bumper mount). See this post for more information and pictures.

I had posted the question to SouthernSS about installing the steel bumper before re-installing the plastic bumper. They said that it is possible to do steel before plastic, but doing so increases the chances of scratching the factory paint. This is especially important if you ordered the bumper with a hoop. As I elected not to have the hoop, I thought I'd give it a try. It turned out to be much simpler to put the bumper in place and torque the bolts to spec without the plastic bumper in the way. I would certainly consider this route for any install, especially if you don't have the hoop to contend with. The reasons for doing this are mostly easier access to: The 4th (inside) bolt to the frame rails, side L-brackets and bolts. Honestly even with the hoop, as long as you keep the bumper upright and with the trim molding on, you shouldn't scratch the paint.

I had the shipping issue where the radiator bracket arms arrived slightly bent, but a big rubber mallet fixed that in a couple swings. I did discover that the bumper did not easily swing up and into place as described in the instructions if you put the radiator arm bolts into place first. I had to un-bolt them and remove the bumper. To install we had to slide the bumper almost into place, a little high, hang it on the small hooks on top of the flanges. Doing it this way also meant that the truck almost immediately took all of the weight of the bumper instead of having to wait to get a couple bolts in first. Then we just had to adjust the bumper a little here and there to line up the holes enough to start the bolts. I don't see that type of install going well with the factory bumper already back in place.

Where things got vague was the instruction for the included L-brackets. On each side of the bumper there are two threaded holes, the short sides of the L-shaped brackets bolt to those using the 3/8" flanged bolts (long side down). The long sides of the L-brackes should taper back and out towards the front wheels. The remaining 3/8" flanged bolts will bolt through the fender liner and factory plastic bumper holes into the threaded holes in the long side of the bracket. This requires that you remove the small plastic clip from the outside hole in order to have a hole big enough for the 3/8" bolt. It may take some fiddling to get them lined up, I had a heck of a time getting the outside bolts in (because the fender liner is a smaller hole), so I'd say start with these first. Honestly once you get to that point in the instructions you're pretty much done and it should be pretty simple to figure out, provided your alcohol consumption hasn't been too great!

Here's where I finally went back and mounted the cut factory bumper back on the truck finishing things out, leaving the fender corners undone. While the factory bumper was removed, my dad had unscrewed the factory fog light mounts and put on the Baja Designs kit. I hadn't tightened the mounting kit all the way to the light because I knew I had to aim them. This also required me to ops check the lights before putting everything back into place. My dad had wired the plug incorrectly for the one side, so we had to pull the adapter, re-wire it and put it back before aiming. I aimed them just below the headlights, and was surprised how easy this was to do. A little push at the top or bottom of the light to adjust while it was slightly lose, and the aiming point would change enough to see because I went with amber lights instead of standard white. I imagine you'd have to disconnect the headlights if you wanted to aim a set of white lights. Once aimed, just reached under with the allen wrench and tightened the mountings, then put the bumper all together. My dad joked about the seemingly massive heatsink on the back of the Squadron-R's but after having them on for a few minutes to adjust them those heatsinks were starting to get a little warm. The lights throw an impressive amount of light, easily dwarfing the stock fog lights, and easily visible even below the XenonDepot HID headlight conversion. The wide pattern is great for fogs. I now have to go do @Antman 's Fog Light Isolation Mod. For what it's worth the plastic housing that was over the stock fog light on the passenger side had no hope of fitting with the BD kit.

I was relieved when the truck was all back together, and had to triple check that I hadn't forgotten something. With the removal of that much of the factory bumper, cross member, and air dam (above the skid plate), I ended up with quite a bit of leftover hardware and parts. Overall the installation was simpler than I had expected, but that's no reason to go rushing things. I could see doing it as a one man job, with the exception of putting the steel bumper on the truck (hey neighbor, want a beer?). Having a second person around to help did make things go quicker handling the wide plastic factory bumper, as well as accomplishing multiple tasks at once.

@Wavechaser I had posted several options here in the original group buy thread. I considered several, but since I wasn't installing a winch or fairlead (yet) that left few options. I could have installed a fairlead and plate mounting bracket behind it, but couldn't make up my mind on which ones before the bumper arrived. So instead I went a simple route that would work without any special mounts.
2xK&J Magnetics Plastic Coated Countersunk Magnet
2x #10-32 3/4" Stainless Machine Screws
2x #12 Stainless Washers
2x #10-32 Nylon Lock Nuts
1x Piece of Black Felt
Machine screws go through the magnets, license plate, washers, and into nylon lock nuts. Then hot glue the felt to the back of the magnet over top of the bolt head. The magnets are strong (20lbs of pull each), but I don't know that I'd trust it to stay while going off-road. Magnetic means it's easy to remove, or re-position though. For now it also covers the fairlead hole until I find the winch I want to throw on there. I ordered the plastic coated magnets and used stainless hardware because I'm in the Rust-Belt and it's winter time.

[Baja Designs]

Originally Posted by Friggin Idiot

12/26/2016 54,292 mi
@Southern Style Offroad
2014+ Slimline Bumper

@Baja Designs
OnX6 20" Driving/Combo (#452003)
Toyota Fog Light Kit (#447110)
Squadron-R Sport Wide/Amber (#587815)

I finally got a day where I had help, space, tools, and even warm weather to install the SSO bumper I picked up out of the last group buy. I've wanted one of these bumpers for about a year, and while there's no pressing NEED for one, who in this forum really NEEDS half of what we put on our trucks. That said I'm very pleased with the look and fit of the bumper. I didn't have time to fiddle with running the harness through the firewall for the OnX6, so it's not connected yet.

I did get a jump start on the install, putting the light bar into the bumper a couple days before, along with a parts inventory. This meant I only had to bug someone for help for as long as it took to install the actual bumper. The OnX6 is a deep light bar, and I have some concerns about how close it may be to the winch when I get it. But I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. The guys at SSO were great at answering questions from pre-purchase through issues and install, even calling me Friday before Christmas after I had written an email late Thursday night. I'm always worried about how things will go when making a major purchase from an online company I haven't dealt with before, but can honestly say that SSO stands behind their product, and is great about product support too! A great big thank you to everyone at @SouthernSS I really wish that everyone would do business like they do!

The SSO directions did seem a little vague at times, and of course I also elected not to follow them at other times. @greatape , Removal of the existing plastic bumper is not optional, but it is a little easier than the instructions make it to be. Mine popped right off the truck as soon as I got the both corners near the wheel wells free. Reinstalling was a little more complicated, but basically it was just line up about there it goes and push the tabs you can't see back into place until they click. That part actually wasn't that difficult using the headlights as a guide for reattachment. I did end up removing and reinstalling the bumper a couple times due errors in my fog light installation, it looks no worse for the wear.

Check for all of your tools before starting. I managed to leave my dremel tool at my apartment 90 minutes away from my sister's house where I was doing the install. (I had used it to polish the trigger on a friend's AR) I realized this the night before my install and managed to borrow my brother's Dremel Trio. Unfortunately it didn't have the proper shim for the 1/8" shank for the ripsaw blades. I ended up putting the bit into a regular drill and dealing with it instead of running to the store to buy another dremel or adapter. @NutZac This made me more nervous about cutting the bumper, I certainly would have felt better if I had a proper dremel.
There were some things that helped with the nerves, make a few mental decisions prior to even putting the ripsaw blade into motion:
1- Plan a practice cut in the bumper, in the blank area behind what would be covered by the Silver Trail valance (sorry SR5 guys, not an option). That way if it wasn't controllable or really ugly I could always put the bumper cover back on and put it back together.
2- Cut small, cut inside of your marking, not on or outside of it. It's always easier to take more off than it is to try and put some back!
3- Only aim to cut about 2-3" at a time. This makes it easier instead of trying to worry about how straight that long cut will be.
4- Also consider that there will be some small errors which would be easily covered by the trim piece included in the kit.
5- I considered a glass of whiskey before cutting, but decided against it better to keep my fine motor control.

The hardest part of cutting was actually the vertical cut along the edge of the bumpout. I made the cut, then went back and cut again and again to free the center section. Then had to flip the bumper back to the front and clean up the ragged cut. I would suggest adding a razor blade or sharp knife to the tools needed in order to clean up the rough edges, melted plastic, and smooth out any cuts that don't come out straight the first time. Most of all, go slowly! It's easier to make multiple cuts than to have the saw go wild and end up with a gouge somewhere you didn't want one. I thought about sanding the edge a little smoother, but didn't waste the time since it was covered by the edge trim.

I removed the baffles for the A/C condenser, and had every intention of cutting the bottom of them off so that they would work with the bumper. Unfortunately by the time I had remembered that I'd already put away my cutting tool. So I left them off completely. They weren't very simple to get off, there's a plastic pop-rivet in the inside center of each one that I didn't see until I went hunting with a flashlight for how to get them off. They also have two tabs each that go towards the rear of the vehicle to hold them in place. Also be careful because those lines in front of the condenser bend out of place very easily, I could see them breaking if you're too rough getting the baffles out.

And here's where I took a turn away from the instructions. I had posted the question to SouthernSS about installing the steel bumper before re-installing the plastic bumper. They said that it is possible to do steel before plastic, but doing so increases the chances of scratching the factory paint. This is especially important if you ordered the bumper with a hoop. As I elected not to have the hoop, I thought I'd give it a try. It turned out to be much simpler to put the bumper in place and torque the bolts to spec without the plastic bumper in the way. I would certainly consider this route for any install, especially if you don't have the hoop to contend with. The reasons for doing this are mostly easier access to: The 4th (inside) bolt to the frame rails, side L-brackets and bolts. Honestly even with the hoop, as long as you keep the bumper upright and with the trim molding on, you shouldn't scratch the paint. This may be different if there's a winch in place though.
I had the shipping issue where the radiator bracket arms arrived slightly bent, but a big rubber mallet fixed that in a couple swings. I did discover that the bumper did not easily swing up and into place as described in the instructions if you put the radiator arm bolts into place first. I had to un-bolt them, remove the bumper. To install we had to slide the bumper almost into place, a little high, hang it on the small hooks on top of the flanges. Doing it this way also meant that the truck almost immediately took all of the weight of the bumper instead of having to wait to get a couple bolts in first. Then we just had to adjust the bumper a little here and there to line up the holes enough to start the bolts. I don't see that type of install going well with the factory bumper already back in place.

Where things got vague was the instruction for the included L-brackets. On each side of the bumper there are two threaded holes, the short sides of the L-shaped brackets bolt to those using the 3/8" flanged bolts (long side down). The long sides of the L-brackes should taper back and out towards the front wheels. The remaining 3/8" flanged bolts will bolt through the fender liner and factory plastic bumper holes into the threaded holes in the long side of the bracket. This requires that you remove the small plastic clip from the outside hole in order to have a hole big enough for the 3/8" bolt. It may take some fiddling to get them lined up, I had a heck of a time getting the outside bolts in (because the fender liner is a smaller hole), so I'd say start with these first. Honestly once you get to that point in the instructions you're pretty much done and it should be pretty simple to figure out, provided your alcohol consumption hasn't been too great!

Here's where I finally went back and mounted the cut factory bumper back on the truck finishing things out, leaving the fender corners undone. While the factory bumper was removed, my dad had unscrewed the factory fog light mounts and put on the Baja Designs kit. I hadn't tightened the mounting kit all the way to the light because I knew I had to aim them. This also required me to ops check the lights before putting everything back into place. My dad had wired the plug incorrectly for the one side, so we had to pull the adapter, re-wire it and put it back before aiming. I aimed them just below the headlights, and was surprised how easy this was to do. A little push at the top or bottom of the light to adjust while it was slightly lose, and the aiming point would change enough to see because I went with amber lights instead of standard white. I imagine you'd have to disconnect the headlights if you wanted to aim a set of white lights. Once aimed, just reached under with the allen wrench and tightened the mountings, then put the bumper all together. My dad joked about the seemingly massive heatsink on the back of the Squadron-R's but after having them on for a few minutes to adjust them those heatsinks were starting to get a little warm. The lights throw an impressive amount of light, easily dwarfing the stock fog lights, and easily visible even below the XenonDepot HID headlight conversion. The wide pattern is great for fogs. I now have to go do @Antman 's Fog Light Isolation Mod. For what it's worth the plastic housing that was over the stock fog light on the passenger side had no hope of fitting with the BD kit.

I was relieved when the truck was all back together, and had to triple check that I hadn't forgotten something. With the removal of that much of the factory bumper, cross member, and air dam (above the skid plate), I ended up with quite a bit of leftover hardware and parts. Overall the installation was simpler than I had expected, but that's no reason to go rushing things. I could see doing it as a one man job, with the exception of putting the steel bumper on the truck (hey neighbor, want a beer?). Having a second person around to help did make things go quicker handling the wide plastic factory bumper, as well as accomplishing multiple tasks at once.

@Wavechaser I had posted several options here in the original group buy thread. I considered several, but since I wasn't installing a winch or fairlead (yet) that left few options. I could have installed a fairlead and plate mounting bracket behind it, but couldn't make up my mind on which ones before the bumper arrived. So instead I went a simple route that would work without any special mounts.
2xK&J Magnetics Plastic Coated Countersunk Magnet
2x #10-32 3/4" Stainless Machine Screws
2x #12 Stainless Washers
2x #10-32 Nylon Lock Nuts
1x Piece of Black Felt
Machine screws go through the magnets, license plate, washers, and into nylon lock nuts. Then hot glue the felt to the back of the magnet over top of the bolt head. The magnets I don't know that I'd trust it to stay while going off-road but magnetic means it's easy to remove. For now it also covers the fairlead hole until I find the winch I want to throw on there. I ordered the plastic coated magnets and used stainless hardware because I'm in the Rust-Belt and it's winter time.

Nice write up! The T4R is looking great.
Let us know how you like the lights at night.

Thank You,
Bailey, Baja Designs

[susanbanthony25]

Great job and nice write up. You're one of the only guys I've seen without the hoop on the slimline. Looks great! Thanks for the inspiration!


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