Listing parts as “no longer available” without superseding is a disturbing trend. They did this with spark plugs awhile back but they were made available a little while later. The OEM air filter is still listed as unavailable.
Personally I would not use the TM or AZ Part numbers, they are lower priced parts to make dealer repair more price competitive.
I would lean towards Advics or Akebono if I went aftermarket.
The OEM fronts are Advics and the rears are Akebono.

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Im about to add a PML deep tranny pan and a Derale remote 25 row tranny cooler to my runner, this is awesome, a real treasure trove. Thanks for taking the time to assemble all this info. It matters. JBO

I just hit 100k miles and have done everything except spark plugs now as far as maintenance goes.

I just updated the coolant replacement section. It is not aligned to the factory service manual exactly, in that I am not draining the engine block. But it is so much easier and doesn't require any skid or wheel removal. And in my mind as long as you up the frequency, and replace the right amount of coolant over time it should be equivalent. The factory service manual drains the block to get the maximum amount out to to minimize trips to the dealer, but for the garage when the frequency doesn't matter as much, I'm gonna do this. If I did it all over again, I would have started at 60k, and just drained the radiator every 15k or so. I will do a few extra the next few weekends to catch up.

If anybody thinks I'm making a mistake here, let me know. But with a closed system that circulates and mixes, I don't see any harm, and it's probably much harder to screw up and break something just draining the radiator and reservoir versus draining the block.

Hi all,

New to the forum and can't start a thread yet. I have an issue that I was hoping to get some insight that may help me finish the job I started. I tried searching throughout the forum but can't seem to find anything on my specific issue. Hoping that someone can help me, and figure maybe it was okay to post this here?

I have a 2017 Limited that we got last fall. It was a little shaky when braking, so I looked at the brakes, and one of the caliper mounting bolts was actually loose (like halfway out). I figured that probably caused some rotor issues, so I decided to replace all the rotors, calipers, & pads.

I got the parts from Rock Auto, and used the following:

Centric front & rear rotors #12044174/12044175
Centric front calipers # 14144305/14144306
Centric rear calipers # 14144587/14144588
And Akebono ASP976 & ASP606A pads

I changed everything up and all seemed fine. Eventually I noticed that the rotors were not wearing evenly. I found that when I would brake, it would pull slightly to the right. I figured maybe everything needed to be greased up, so I went to Napa and got some purple brake grease. I removed the pads, and used a bungy to hold up the caliper on the control arm. I greased everything up and put it back together. Went to press the pedal to test the caliper, and it started leaking fluid at the metal line where the fitting is. I figured maybe i cracked the line when moving the caliper. I ordered new OEM lines and put it in. Same issue. It seems like the line can wiggle a bit in the caliper. I figure because the flare is not against the fitting, fluid is leaking (or weeping) back out of the fitting when pressure is applied.

Hoping someone can help me here, I have it up on a stand and I was hoping to get it finished up.

Thanks in advance.

saving for later:

2018 TRD PRO Grill Upgrade THE RIGHT WAY 2018 4Runner Off Road premium 4K - YouTube

In brake fluid replace section it says the bleed sequence is 3) Sequence is FR, FL, RR, RL. I always thought that you bled generally from furthest to the nearest, RR, RL, FR, FL. I know some cars have a junction to the rear which can affect that general recommendation, but am I missing something here?

That’s a great reference for all those systems!

Normally, you would go furthest from the master cylinder, but that's based on trying to do the longest to shortest brake line. I double checked the sequence with the factory service manual. It has something to do with the location of one of the abs components I think. It makes the front brake lines longer, even though the master cylinder is in the front.

OK, as mentioned I knew some vehicles had sequences like that due to the locations of junctions, just never had read that for the 4Runner. Thanks for confirming! Should make for a better job in the future.

Just rolled over 120k miles and completed the spark plug change. I've now completed all the standard maintenance items on my 4Runner from brand new. Kind of a good feeling. The first vehicle I've ever done this for completely.

Cheers.

It sure is a good feeling. I still reference this thread often so thanks for keeping it updated. I’ve been working on basic maintenance on my mom’s Honda lately, never appreciated Toyota and my 4Runner more.