I have compiled some info from other threads as well as studied up on the TIS repair manuals for my new vehicle. I wanted a quick reference document I can use for my maintenance to save either breaking out full detailed instructions or just to get me to what I need quickly. I know there's already some threads with some similar info including the great thread by @WhiskeyCop , but there were a few things that I found that were spread out as well. I'll be happy to keep this up and add to/edit the original post based on feedback from ya'll and as I actually start performing some of these items. Obviously, I can't be held responsible for any typos or any misuse of the info here. Let me know if ya'll have any recommendations for changes/additions or if you find or know of another DIY thread/video that would be helpful to link to. Please also help me correct any mistakes if you see them. Thanks!


Inspect and adjust all fluid levels - every fill-up

Engine oil
1) Check w/ engine warm greater than 5 minutes after shutting off engine
2) Tip: leave dipstick out while waiting 5 minutes to allow oil in dipstick to drain back down, makes it easier to read
3) Per manual, it’s 1.8 qts from low mark to full mark, don’t overfill

Coolant - between L and F lines with engine cold

Brake fluid - between min and max (should be near or at max with fresh pads)

Power steering fluid (ATF DEXRON II or III)
1) Between min and max (cold and hot lines provided)
2) Cold - not driven in last 5 hours (50-85 degF fluid temp)
3) Hot - driven 50 mph for 20 mins (140-175 degF fluid temp)

Check undercarriage (transmission, diffs, transfer case, etc.) for any leaks


Rotate tires - every 5k or 6 mo

Front to back/back to front on each side
Aluminum wheel lug nut torque - 76 lb-ft (21mm)
Steel wheel lug nut torque - 83 lb-ft (21mm)
Check torque ~1000 miles after rotating
Check your manual for proper torque, this has changed a little over the years


Replace engine oil and filter - every 10k or 12 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Torque specs:
Oil pan drain plug - 30 lb-ft (14mm deepwell)
Oil filter cap - 216 lb-in/18 lb-ft (TOY640 with 15/16" or 24mm socket, 2" ext)
Oil filter drain plug - 108 lb-in/9 lb-ft (3/8" drive 6" ext)
No. 1 engine under cover sub-assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)
Front lower bumper cover - 71 lb-in (10mm)
Engine under cover seal - 21 lb-ft (12mm)

Parts:
Oil - 6.6 qts 0W-20 ILSAC GF-5 oil - Toyota part # 00279-0WQTE-01
Oil pan drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-12031
Oil filter element kit - Toyota part # 04152-YZZA5

Special tools:
AST TOY640 filter wrench (or Toyota SST 09228-06501)
~ 2ft of 5/8” ID tubing (for oil filter drain pipe)

Tips:
1) Requires removing skids for access. I put the front wheels on ramps and just allow the skid plate to swing down (a little different from Antman's write up where he recommends cutting off the swing-down tab so it can be taken on and off easier)
2) The front lower bumper cover has a push pin (a central pin with an outer sleeve) in the center. To remove, push in hard on the central pin, it will then be free to pull out easily. Then the outer sleeve will slide out. To reinstall, put the sleeve in, then the pin until it clicks. Easy peasy every time, and you won't break it.
3) Oil filter has permanent housing, oil filter element kit includes new filter cartridge, 2 new o-rings, and the temporary oil filter drain pipe.
4) Hose for oil filter drain pipe (if used) should be 5/8” ID (15 mm). About $1 at Lowe’s in the plumbing section for clear vinyl tubing. Can help with splashing and allow you to leave skid plate hooked on. Make sure you put the drain pipe in the filter housing with some gusto. Hold the end of the tubing up higher than the filter (or plug end with your thumb) when you install and it won't run out on you uncontrolled.
5) Proper torque of the oil filter cap and oil filter drain plug will prevent the cap coming off before the drain plug on the next change, which can be a lot cleaner. If the filter drain plug won't loosen first, it has been overtorqued.
6) When removing filter drain plug, give it a little impact. Too smooth and the plug and housing will try and move together.
7) The oil filter tool can get stuck on the housing. Avoid this by wiping out all the oil residue from the tool and housing while you have it off the vehicle. If it still sticks, a little tap with a hammer usually breaks it free.
8) The oil filter drain pipe can be a pain to get out. Put some gloves on, put your thumb on the filter housing, and pull on the drain pipe with your fingers at a 90-degree angle and it will pop out.
9) DIY thread: Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS! by @Antman


Lubricate propeller shaft - every 15k or 18 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Parts:
Spider grease - Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
Slide yoke grease - Molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
No double cardan joints on the 4Runner

Special tools:
Pistol-grip grease gun with flexible hose

Tips:
1) DIY thread: Prop shaft greasing by @Mijfwb23
2) 2 spiders and 1 slide yoke on each shaft
3) Spiders should be greased until fresh grease purges from all 4 seals. Should purge somewhat evenly; you may need to relieve pressure on the joint to get even flow, or there may be a problem with the spider/u-joint.
4) Park with the rear driveshaft slide yoke zirk fitting pointing down and you'll be able to access all zirks on the rear. The front driveshaft can be rotated easily by hand (as long as you're in 2wd) to access all the front zirks.
5) There are way too many opinions on how much to grease a slide yoke. I've formed mine, if interested just message me.


Re-torque propeller shaft bolts - every 15k or 18 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Torque specs:
Prop shaft bolts - 65 lb-ft (14mm/17mm)

Tips:
1) DIY thread: Prop shaft torquing by @nashman69g
2) You will need 14mm and 17mm box ends or flarenuts for the u-joint flanges, sockets won't fit
3) The flanges at the transfer case have a 17mm bolt head with a 14mm nut
4) Flanges at the diffs have a 14mm bolt with 14mm nut
5) Recommend a box-end or flarenut crowfoot on your torque wrench, but don't forget to lower your torque setting due to the longer torque arm. Here's a calculator: Torque Wrench Adapter Calculator - CNCexpo.com


Replace cabin air filter - every 30k or 36 mo (severe: 15k or 18 mo)

Parts:
Filter - Toyota part # 87139-YZZ20

Tips:
1) If you don't know how, it's in your glovebox owner's manual
2) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY


Replace engine air filter - every 30k or 36 mo (severe: 15k or 18 mo)

Parts:
Filter - Toyota part # 17801-38051
Toyota part # 17801-YZZ13 is also compatible, it has no pre-filter and is not made in Japan.
I'm sure either are fine, but the 38051 part seemed like better quality to me.

Tips:
1) DIY video
2) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY
3) Easy job, but don't mess it up. Make sure there's no holes/tears in your new filter. Make sure everything's clean before you open up the box and remove filter. And make sure you have a good mating/seal around entire edge of the filter.


Replace brake fluid - every 3 years

Parts:
~36 oz fluid - Toyota part # 004751BF03 or equivalent (FMVSS No.116 DOT 3 or SAE J1703 brake fluid)

Torque specs:
Bleeder valve - 11 N-m/8 lb-ft (Front - 10mm deep; Rear - 10mm short)

Tools:
I like this bottle, but don't rely on the magnet, set it on something

Tips:
1) Make note of initial brake fluid level
2) Don't let reservoir get low which would let air in system
3) Sequence is FR, FL, RR, RL
4) Ignition switch has to be in ON for both front and rear
5) Fronts require cycling the brakes repeatedly to flush fluid (depress/loosen/tighten/release/repeat)
6) Press and hold brake on rears and allow pump to push fluid continuously
7) If bleeding air (and not just replacing), the FSM states that Techstream is required
8) Leave brake fluid level same as initial level
9) Will want a 10mm open-end wrench or 10mm offset wrench for the fronts due to the angle


Battery replacement

Torque specs:
Battery terminals - 48 lb-in (10mm)
Battery hold-down clamp - 53 lb-in (10mm deep)

Parts:
24F automotive battery, at least 530 CCA
Top post terminals (positive on right, negative on left)
Example: NAPA 7524F

Tips:
1) Negative, Positive, Clamp, Clamp, Positive, Negative
3) Will need a smaller sized torque wrench for negative terminal


Front brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts - 137 lb-ft (19mm) (this may be a typo, others have reported 91 lb-ft)

Service Specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 29.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.05 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 43512-60191
Pads - Toyota part # 04465-60320

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check bearing play and axle hub runout normal before replacing rotors
3) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
4) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
5) Unbolt (2 bolts) the ABS line before removing caliper mounting bolts so you can swing it out of the way freely. There's also one clip to remove. Squeeze the backside together with needle nose to remove without breaking.
6) DIY thread
7) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY
8) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwEOP9Tobw8
9) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy4PLb8Y7BU&t=50s
10) For quiet brakes, get your grease right. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...it-all.275027/


Rear brakes - every 5k or 6 mo for visual; every 30k or 36 mo for measurements

Torque specs:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm + short extension)
Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)

Service specs:
Pad min thickness: 1.0 mm
Rotor min thickness: 16.0 mm
Max rotor runout: 0.20 mm

Parts:
Rotors - Toyota part # 42431-60311
Pads - Toyota part # 04466-60140

Tips:
1) Measure runout 10 mm from outer edge of rotor; rotor should be installed with all 6 lug nuts torqued to 82 lb-ft when checking
2) If runout > max, check rear axle shaft before adusting/replacing rotors
3) Remember to turn off your e-brake
4) If rotor stuck on hub, use an M8-1.25 bolt in holes on rotors to break it free
5) Install new rotors in position with least amount of runout
6) DIY thread
7) Paul's Travel Pictures DIY
8) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwEOP9Tobw8
9) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy4PLb8Y7BU&t=50s
10) For quiet brakes, get your grease right. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...it-all.275027/


Inspect fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses - every 30k or 36 mo

Torque specs:
Fuel tank bands - 30 lb-ft (14mm?)
No. 1 fuel tank protector sub-assembly - 180 lb-in/15 lb-ft (12mm)


Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body - severe only: every 5k or 6 mo

Let your conscience be your guide


Replace differential oil - inspect every 15k or 18 mo (severe: replace every 15k or 18 mo)

Torque specs:
Rear diff drain plug - 36 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16")
Rear diff fill plug - 36 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16" shallow)
Front diff drain plug - 48 lb-ft (10mm hex + 2-3" ext)
Front diff fill plug - 29 lb-ft (10mm hex)
Rear engine under cover assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)

Parts:
Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent - Toyota part # 08885-02506
Front - 1.6 qts; Rear - 2.8 qts (varies slightly with model)
Rear drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 12157-10010
Rear fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 12157-10010
Front drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-24003
Front fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 12157-10010

Tips:
1) Perform with vehicle level
2) Ensure you can remove fill plug before draining
3) Proper level should be within 5 mm of bottom of fill plug opening
4) Re-check level after driving
5) Save new fill plug washer until final check
6) For front diff: will need to remove skid plate w/ 4 bolts and will want a bottle pump for front diff. Recommend putting a jack under the skid plate to hold it while removing bolts. Once bolts are removed, you can remove the jack. There is a hook that it will hang from. Slide skid plate back to get hook out of way and allow removal. Also recommend removing the skid and loosening diff fill and drain plugs while on ramps, just so you have more room to use a breaker bar. Then take it off ramps and make it level for the actual drain and fill.
7) Your socket for the rear fill plug will need to be shallow to ensure clearance from the rear sway bar. Recommend a 6-pt here if possible. I can see these having potential to getting rounded off.
8) I suspect the fill quantities are for minimum amounts, e.g. I put 3 liters in the rear and never got overflow from the fill plug. Level was in the sat range but not at max. So buy plenty of fluid. 5L will do both front and rear.
9) Diff and xfer case gasket kit
10) DIY thread: Front and Rear Diff fluid change by @Mijfwb23


Replace transfer case oil - inspect every 30k or 36 mo (severe: replace every 30k or 36 mo)

Torque specs:
Drain plug - 27 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16")
Fill plug - 27 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16")

Parts:
SAE 75W Toyota Genuine Transfer gear oil LF or equivalent - Toyota part # 08885-81080
1.1 qts (part-time) or 1.5 qts (full-time)
Drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-A0003
Fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 90430-A0003

Tips:
1) Ensure you can remove fill plug before draining
2) After filling, leave plug out and let sit ~5 minutes and re-check, add if necessary
3) Diff and xfer case gasket kit


Replace automatic transmission fluid - inspect every 30k or 36 mo (severe: replace every 60k or 72 mo)

Torque specs:
Drain plug - 180 lb-in/15 lb-ft (14mm deepwell)
Overflow plug - 180 lb-in/15 lb-ft (5mm hex)
Fill plug - 27 lb-ft (24mm or 15/16", 3/8" drive shallow socket recommended for clearance)

Parts:
4 qts Toyota ATF WS fluid - Toyota part # 00289-ATFWS
Drain plug gasket - Toyota part # 35178-30010
Overflow plug gasket - Toyota part # 35178-30010
Fill plug gasket - Toyota part # 90301-15004

Special tools:
Toyota SST 09843-18040 (basically you just need a wire to jumper two OBD ports)
Bottle pump (to use for filling)

Tips:
1) Transmission Fluid Change procedure
2) Transmission fluid change
3) trans fluid drain and refill
4) transmission temp check mode
5) https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...mission.63851/ (for reference)
6) Manual seems silent on what a "replacement" is, but I suspect 3 drain/fill/circulate 30sec cycles would be adequate, this is what's called for in the new Tacoma manual.


Replace engine coolant - drain and fill ~1.25 gal coolant every 15k miles starting at 60k miles

CAUTION: these instructions are not aligned to the factory service manual, but in my opinion adequate and much easier if you are DIY'ing and just up the frequency of replacement, this prevents a lot of venting/bleeding you will have to do. I was able to do a straight drain and refill without having to top up since I wasn't draining the block.

Torque specs:
Radiator drain cock - hand tight

Parts:
2 gal Toyota SLLC - Toyota part # 00272-SLLC2 (50/50 pre-diluted, Canada is 55/45), will only use about 1.25 gal at most

Tips:
1) Start with engine cool
2) Will need to remove engine compartment cover (has 13 clips)
3) Will want to remove grommet on passenger side on front skid plate to route hose
4) Use about 10-12" of 5/16" ID clear flexible vinyl tubing (from Lowe's or Home Depot plumbing section)
5) Connect tubing to drain cock on bottom of radiator on passenger side and route to drain bucket
6) Keep radiator cap on right now
7) Slowly hand-loosen plastic drain clock to drain fluid, don't unloosen too far, maintain some thread engagement so it doesn't pop out
8) Open radiator reservoir cap
9) Open radiator cap
10) Once done draining, hand-tighten drain cock and remove tubing, and re-install skid grommet
11) Fill radiator at the radiator cap very slowly
12) Fill radiator reservoir to the F line
13) Squeeze #1 and #2 radiator hoses to remove any air bubbles
14) Top up radiator and reservoir if necessary (I didn't have to)
15) Close radiator reservoir cap
16) Install and tighten radiator cap
17) Start engine and stop immediately
18) Open radiator cap and check level, top up if necessary, repeat until level doesn't drop (it didn't drop for me)
19) Start and run engine with a/c fan on, temp towards warm, and a/c switch off
20) Monitor reservoir level and engine temp during these next 2 steps
20) Squeeze #1 and #2 radiator hoses while warming up to validate thermostat opens (CAUTION: watch rotating belt and fan)
21) Run until thermostat opens and circulate coolant for several minutes
22) Turn off and let engine cool
23) Check level in radiator and reservoir, top up if necessary
24) Re-install engine compartment cover
24) Need help draining coolant


Replace spark plugs - every 120k or 144 mo

Torque specs:
Spark plugs - 159 lb-in/18Nm (5/8" spark plug socket + ext)
Spark plug gap - 0.043 in (1.1mm)
Ignition coils - 88 lb-in/10Nm (10mm)
Air switching valve mtg bolts - 186 lb-in/21Nm (12mm)
Air tubes - 88 lb-in/10Nm (10mm)
Air filter hose clamp - 44 lb-in/5Nm (10mm)
Air filter hose mtg bolt - 44lb-in/5Nm (10mm)

Parts:
6 spark plugs
Toyota part # 90919-01233/DENSO SK16HR11 ('14-'16) or
Toyota part # 90919-01191/DENSO SK20HR11 ('10-'13)
4 gaskets for air tubes (if equipped) - Toyota part # 17377-38010

Tips:
1) Requires removing v-bank cover, air filter housing/hose, and the air switching valves/tubes on each bank
2) Earlier models ('10-'12?) that don't have the extra emissions stuff won't require removing anything extra, only the v-bank cover.
3) Air tubes require new gaskets (again, won't be there on earlier models).
4) Watch the 'Car Care Nut' video below to get idea of best way to remove interferences.
5) 5th Gen Spark Plugs- Photo Tutorial. So easy a 6 yr old girl can do it... by @Antman
6) https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2385725-post51.html
7) misfires after new spark plugs. Need help !!!
8) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcsPyhn162E



Other threads

1) http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...pictorial.html by @Antman
2) 5th gen lower ball joint write up by @caper
3) http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...-pics-%5D.html by @mbumpus11
4) 5th Gen Toyota 4runner DIY Videos by @mtbtim
5) TIS install guide by @wfo9
6) Owners Manuals/Warranty Info/Etc. 2010-2019 by @Lester Lugnut
7) Beginner Fluid Maintenance by @DougEFresh2
8) Dummies' Guide to Setting Correct Inflation on Your 5th Gen 4Runner Tires by @the_economist
9) 5th Gen Transfer Case R&R and Seal Replacement by @CutthroatSlam


Other links

1) 2010-2016 Toyota 4Runner Common Problems, Repair Guides & Vehicle Maintenance DIY Instructions If you use this guy's stuff make sure to donate or buy stuff from amazon through the link on his website.
2) Partsouq.com Best website I've seen for looking up parts with full diagrams, just have your VIN# handy.
3) Required watching before walking into a Toyota service department. Please arm yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdNC...hSbsrV&index=1

Very good. Finish it up and I will put it in the maintenance sticky. You sure about the lug nut torque? Pretty sure it is 92 lb ft but I could be wrong.

I've got 83 ft pounds written on my work bench. Oh and good post!

Thanks. Everything I've seen in the 2016 docs has 76 lb-ft for aluminum wheels and 83 lb-ft for steel wheels. I was assuming that for alloy wheels, I'd be using the aluminum number. Let me know if that's wrong. That said, I can't see 76 vs 83 lb-ft making a huge difference.

Great post. I have some of the info from TIS converted to PDF files if you would like me to post them and you can decide how to use them.

I have the spark plug change, automatic trans fluid etc.

Just an offer if wanted.

Best post in a looooong time! Great job.

Awesome thanks. Should make a great sticky.

added it to the sticky here Modifications, Write-Ups, Quick Links, and FAQ's

Thanks, I just finished my 2-day subscription, think I've got everything I need. I'll add some preliminary info soon. And I'm planning on doing a drain and fill DIY thread with pics whenever I get around to checking my trans fluid level (probably within the first 5000 miles or so).

A couple things I'd love some help on if anybody knows an official Toyota position.

1) There are tons of opinions on how much to grease a slide yoke on the drive shaft. Some say 2-3 pumps. Some say pump until you see the first bit of extension. Some say pump till it purges out the seal. Some say don't overfill. Some say you can't overfill. I have no idea and I could find nothing in the repair manual. If there are any Toyota techs with some official info that'd be great. Until then, I'll probably go with 2-3 pumps every oil change to be safe.

2) The mythical 'Tighten nuts and bolts on body and chassis' that is recommended for severe service conditions. I'm at a loss as to what all this really should include. The "glove box" maintenance guide says to tighten "re-tighten the seat-mounting bolts and front/rear suspension member retaining bolts to specified torque." Okay, that's not too bad, but still pretty un-specific. The Repair Manual from TIS has a much longer list:

(a) Where necessary, tighten all the parts of the chassis.
Front axle and suspension Drivetrain
Rear axle and suspension Brake system
Engine mounting, etc.
(b) Where necessary, tighten all parts of the body.
Seat belt system
Seat
Doors and hood
Body mounting
Fuel tank
Exhaust pipe system, etc.

That's easily hundreds of bolts, and many I would not want to touch with a 10-ft pole unless there was a problem, plus many that are not easily accessible. This almost just seems like a CYA maintenance recommendation from Toyota. If anybody has any recommendations as to what you should actually torque up periodically, let me know and I'll look up all the specs and add to the OP. Thanks!

@renau001

Quick question...

You list the front rotors as Toyota part # 43512-60190.

Everything I see lists them as #43512-60191. Any idea what the difference may be? They both look to be the same part but there has to be a reason for the # discrepancy.

Just curious...I'll be needing brakes soon and I think I'll be ordering this weekend from Camelback Toyota- free shipping, unless someone else knows someplace cheaper!

I honestly don't know. I got the brake part #'s from the 2010 parts manual that I found on this forum, and I was not able to confirm that number through any online parts website. 43512-60191 could easily be an updated part # and 43512-60190 may not exist anymore. I will definitely check the part # through my dealer before I do any job like that, as they will usually work with me on pricing and I try to keep up a relationship.
@Antman . http://toyotapartsestore.com/ has it as 43512-60191. I'll update the OP. If you find out for sure, let us know.

Fantastic write-up! Only thing I would add to the list are the recommended intervals for each of the items. That would make this a perfect thread to refer to on when services are supposed to be performed. Doesn't need to be crazy, just something like:

Replace engine air filter
(interval, every XXX miles or XX months)

Parts:
Filter - Toyota part # 17801-38051

Tips:
1) DIY video


I'm always having to search around for what's due at the mileage I'm at, it would be awesome to just refer to this list and see what's due and when!

Thanks for a very informative and thorough write-up!

Great work. The following applies to A750E/A750F automatic transmissions:

Automatic transmission pan gasket - 3516860010

Automatic transmission pan drain plug gasket - 3517830010