Ok, just got off the phone with Bilstein and I apparently did it incorrectly. The good thing is that you aren't supposed to re-use any of the old shock components. The bad news is that the guy said, on our application, the washers should not "cup" the isolator, but rather have the domed side touching the isolator. He said this allows more free articulation of the shock shaft while offroading.

From what I can tell in photos, a number of other people have done it incorrectly too though. I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle to pull them back off to make that change?

For those looking for reference, I recently changed my original 5100 setup from one classic setting to another.

My original setting was .85 front, stock rear on factory sized 265/70R17 tires (Falken Wildpeak AT3W)...This setup was great and I loved the ride. It just ended up not being noticeable to anyone but me and I needed the little extra lift for off roading.

Next to a stock 4Runner





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Before shots:
.85F/stock rear 265/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W. Spidertrax 1.25” spacers

After Shots:
2.5F/1.5R daystar spacers, BFG KO2 285/70R17 C load, Spidertrax Spacers











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Hope these help someone in a similar situation I was in.


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Like anyone actually clicks this crap


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Anyone have advice on the 5100 set up versus PTR13-35140 (FJ TRD set up)?

While I have no personal experience with the FJ kit, it is considered a more premium setup than straight 5100s: new springs, bigger shock bodies, remote reservoir on rear shock, etc. I strongly considered going that route but, in the end, decided against it for the following reasons:

Price - slightly cheaper to go with 5100s, although the FJ kit could be considered a better bargain for what you get. The $200 difference isn’t huge, but it’s still there.

FJ Parts - the parts are different on the FJ kit than the T4R PRO kit. Why is this? The answer is that nobody knows. Springs are different, and all shock numbers are different. If this was an ideal setup for the 4runner, I’d think Toyota would’ve used it. We know Toyota likes to use the same parts across multiple vehicles, so this never sat quite well with me.

Replacements - when you get down to it, both the 5100 and FJ shocks are wear parts. Sometimes they last awhile and sometimes they don’t. When a 5100 goes out, you know you’ll be able to easily find a replacement at a reasonable price. I don’t think this is the case with the FJ shocks, since I’m sure replacements are quite costly and getting your hands on it won’t be as easy. Additionally, the 5100s have a lifetime warranty, whereas the FJ shocks don’t...actually if used on a 4Runner, they probably have no warranty, assuming you’re honest about it.

I wanted about an inch lift on the front so either option would’ve worked for me in that regard, but the 5100 also offers more built in flexibility for lift height.

Either way, I don’t think you can go wrong with the 5100 or the FJ kit. The 5100 just made more sense to me sense to me, and I’ve been very satisfied with their performance so far. Time will tell on durability, but I’m not concerned because they have a good reputation.

Great information in this thread . I'll use it for reference when I do my 5100 install .

Does any place sell a complete ready to bolt on kit ?
All 4 Bilstein 5100's with the fronts set at 1.75" and 1" spacers for the rear ?
I don't want to mess with a spring compressor . Just want to bolt everything up .
Thanks in advance .

That would be a waste of money since you would be buying springs and top hats too. Give the “no spring compressor” method a shot. It’s really a piece of cake, and I don’t see how it would be much more difficult than a bolt in setup. Although I’m fairly experienced with wrenching, I’m meticulous and I take my time doing things. This is one of the few installs I’ve done where everything went exactly as it should (with the exception of the rear shock washers as I mentioned above, but that’s still up for debate). Ask questions here if you run into a snag, but I have no doubt that most people with the proper tools can handle it. This video helps tremendously too - although it’s for a Tacoma, it’s identical: Front Shock Install. The only thing I did differently, is I stuck a 2x4 under the brake rotor so it wouldn’t drop when I lowered the lower control arm. I also disconnected the ABS sensor in case I did something to stretch it.

If I had to do it again, I would completely remove the sway bar, but I was able to do it just by unbolting the end links.

What size tires do you have on this? Looks great!

Bilstein 5100's are designed to work with stock coils and top hats.

Like KP Texan said, re-purposing is simple. Most shops will re-coil for free or lost cost flat fee. If you are planning on doing install yourself.

Complete Kits - Click Here

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Thanks for the input! Very much appreciated. I had a 14 Tundra 1794 and did a 3/1 level kit on it and did not care for the ride. I know it isn't the best approach for a lift, but it put a bad taste in my mouth.

I do primarily city/hw driving and want to put on a set of TRD pro wheels + 275/70's (or 285 if I can fit it). Ideally, I'd like to get rid of the nose dive and less body roll. It's not hateful now, but you definitely feel it.

Overall, it seems to be about $350 in savings for the 5100 kit.

Shop quoted me $400 in labor for all 4 shocks/struts replaced with the rear spacer. Does that sound fair?

Thanks . Does that also come with the 1" spacer for the rear ?

Thanks for this! Ordered my set!