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Old 04-13-2016, 11:15 AM #1
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wiring help

looking for any input on my wiring issue.
I am trying to wire my rigid lights to my bussman box.
It seems pretty straight forward, but it is not working.
the switch does light up, but the lights do not.
i have the instructions attached for the bussman box and the rigid lights.
here's where i am at:
rigid harness:
black wire grounded
red wire with black strip connected to rigid lights
red wire connected to 12 gauge wire from bussman box
bussman box
16 gauge wire connect to fuse box via fuse tap

i did try switching the red wire connections and that resulted in the switch always on, but still no lights.

any help would be much appreciated.
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wiring help-20160412_200701-jpg  wiring help-20160412_200724-jpg 
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:42 AM #2
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There is a lot of confusion going on here and some things need clarified,

*Are you using the switch provided in the rigid hardness or separate switches?
*Have you connected the Bussmann to the battery?
*Which Rigid light are you installing/how many?

I am not sure why you have the 16ga. hooked up via a fuse tap, they are meant to be tied to a switch so you can turn your lights on/off
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:52 AM #3
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Thanks for the reply Engineer.
yes, i am using the rigid switch provided.
yes, the bussman is connected to the battery.
i am wiring 2 rear bumper lights, but i also have 2 roof top lights and a 40" light bar to do as well.
i hooked the 16 gauge wire to 12V ignition connection because that is what the instructions said or my interpretation. Electrical is not my strong suit, i am more comfortable on the mechanical side of things.
I attached a better picture of the bussman instructions that shows to connect to 12V ignition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Engineer View Post
There is a lot of confusion going on here and some things need clarified,

*Are you using the switch provided in the rigid hardness or separate switches?
*Have you connected the Bussmann to the battery?
*Which Rigid light are you installing/how many?

I am not sure why you have the 16ga. hooked up via a fuse tap, they are meant to be tied to a switch so you can turn your lights on/off
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:38 PM #4
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:01 PM #5
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got it and replied back

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Old 04-13-2016, 02:20 PM #6
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Did @Engineer solve your issue? If not I see your problem.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:20 PM #7
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i have no solution yet.
Please do tell.

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Did @Engineer solve your issue? If not I see your problem.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:34 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmf_tracy View Post
i have no solution yet.
Please do tell.
First, the 12ga wire coming from the bussman box is the power supply line for the accessory, ie the light. It looks like you tried to use it to power the switch itself. These wires will not get power to them unless a switch attached to the 16ga wires at the top of that diagram activates the relay first.

Use either the rigid harness or the bussman box, not both.

I assume you want the bussman box.
The 16ga colored wire at the top of the diagram goes to the middle prong of your switch. You need to ground the gold prong, and attach the bottom prong to a 12v power source on your vehicle like your 12v outlets.

The 12ga wire goes to your light.

positive wire from bussman goes to positive terminal on battery, negative to negative.
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Last edited by cjacob316; 04-13-2016 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:39 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjacob316 View Post
Use either the ridig harness or the bussman box, not both.
That is where I left off, Thanks
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:45 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmf_tracy View Post

It seems pretty straight forward, but it is not working.
Hi jmf_tracy

All of the 12 gauge wiring are OUTPUTS, which supply current to your auxiliary loads e.g., lights, winch, audio system...etc! Your 16 gauge wiring are for triggering the relays from the switches, or energizing low power consumption loads i.e fractional amperage drawing circuitry i.e. 1/4 A loads like small bulbs and relay coils.

The inline fuses like the blue one pictured above are installed in the sub-panel as close to the output relays/terminal buss as possible.
And I'm guessing that the POS and NEG wiring that come directly off of the battery should be fused only inches (6 to 8) from the positive batt terminal to prevent a fire.

That's the way it looks to me from what I can see. NOTE: Perhaps you'd consider reducing the size of your diagram so that it can be seen at one glance instead of having to move it from left to right and then piece it together; no biggie, just saying!

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Old 04-13-2016, 02:52 PM #11
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Thanks for the help guys.
I will give it another try tonight after work as you have suggested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjacob316 View Post
First, the 12ga wire coming from the bussman box is the power supply line for the accessory, ie the light. It looks like you tried to use it to power the switch itself. These wires will not get power to them unless a switch attached to the 16ga wires at the top of that diagram activates the relay first.

Use either the ridig harness or the bussman box, not both.

I assume you want the bussman box.
The 16ga colored wire at the top of the diagram goes to the middle prong of your switch. You need to ground the gold prong, and attach the bottom prong to a 12v power source on your vehicle like your 12v outlets.

The 12ga wire goes to your light.

positive wire from bussman goes to positive terminal on battery, negative to negative.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec View Post
Hi jmf_tracy

All of the 12 gauge wiring are OUTPUTS, which supply current to your auxiliary loads e.g., lights, winch, audio system...etc! Your 16 gauge wiring are for triggering the relays from the switches, or energizing low power consumption loads i.e fractional amperage drawing circuitry i.e. 1/4 A loads like small bulbs and relay coils.

The inline fuses like the blue one pictured above are installed in the sub-panel as close to the output relays/terminal buss as possible.
And I'm guessing that the POS and NEG wiring that come directly off of the battery should be fused only inches (6 to 8) from the positive batt terminal to prevent a fire.

That's the way it looks to me from what I can see. NOTE: Perhaps you'd consider reducing the size of your diagram so that it can be seen at one glance instead of having to move it from left to right and then piece it together; no biggie, just saying!

rigtec
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:39 PM #12
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i give up for now

Well, i tried re-wiring per cjacob316 instructions which made sense, but it still does not work. I gotta let it go for now as i am dropping my truck off at SWAT tomorrow to have them do a better job on my alignment then i am going to Pismo for the weekend. I'll try again next week.
Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:53 PM #13
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This may help or confuse the situation more...

Cooper Bussmann Wiring
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:12 AM #14
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Thanks.
great timing, I just ordered some AOB switches.
I will give it another go next week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MudPie View Post
This may help or confuse the situation more...

Cooper Bussmann Wiring
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:45 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmf_tracy View Post
Well, i tried re-wiring per cjacob316 instructions which made sense, but it still does not work. I gotta let it go for now as i am dropping my truck off at SWAT tomorrow to have them do a better job on my alignment then i am going to Pismo for the weekend. I'll try again next week.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Are you going to be on the beach with your rig? Wife was mentioning us going down one of the days, if so, I could look out for you.
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