04-17-2016, 11:08 AM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Colorado
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Join Date: May 2015
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LED Light bar install - unused connector to tap switch into
I am getting all of the pieces (AOB switch,
@ BradBrad619
mounts, and OPT7 C2 Series: 22" lights and harness) together to install a light bar in a few weeks.
One thing that I am trying to do is not splice into any wiring. I hate the t-taps, although the Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap may be a better option, or soldering of course...just a bit harder to do in getting hands in there.
Are there any unused plugs in the dash or even console that I can connect the illumination switch wires instead? That is a cleaner solution for me. I was hoping there are are unused connectors as I have a number of unused plugs in the dash and console.
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2023 SR5 Hefty FabWorks Slider, Falken AT4W
Sold- 2016 TE w/KDSS, Bilstein 6112 (6 passenger, 5 driver) & 5160 w/T13 springs, Firestone Destination AT, Hefty FabWorks Sliders, IS 690TOY Speakers, Husky Liners WeatherBeaters, Covercraft SeatSavers
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04-17-2016, 11:59 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 1,642
Real Name: Max
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 1,642
Real Name: Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeser
I am getting all of the pieces (AOB switch,
@ BradBrad619
mounts, and OPT7 C2 Series: 22" lights and harness) together to install a light bar in a few weeks.
One thing that I am trying to do is not splice into any wiring. I hate the t-taps, although the Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap may be a better option, or soldering of course...just a bit harder to do in getting hands in there.
Are there any unused plugs in the dash or even console that I can connect the illumination switch wires instead? That is a cleaner solution for me. I was hoping there are are unused connectors as I have a number of unused plugs in the dash and console.
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It depends on how much you want that switch to light up. I decided not to illuminate the switch because half of the interior lights don't light up anyways, or at least that's how it feels, ha! But mostly because I didn't want to screw with the OEM wiring. Mine doesn't light with the dash lights, but does when it is on. Another option is to install an add-a-fuse to the tail light fuse under the drivers side dash, and wire it to the dash light wire on the AOB. I tested it, and it works, but you won't get dimming. I just decided not to all together, but that's just me! Good luck!
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04-17-2016, 12:18 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Littleton, co
Age: 48
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Real Name: Halko
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Real Name: Halko
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Yup, as stated above I have no connection to any factory wiring anywhere in the truck, the only downside is no illumination of switches when accessories are off. When the switches are activated they do light up. I did an add a fuse for the CB to the fuse box by the driver footwell.
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2011 Silver LE, 3rd row, 285 GY Duratracs, Elka remote with adjusters/Icon Overland springs, SPC UCA's, RCI skids, Shrockworks step slider with OE Trail rockers, CBI rear bumper, Indel B fridge, SPOD, and more...
Build link:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-ge...el-thread.html
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04-17-2016, 12:46 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Lafayette, La
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I went to west marine and got some heat shrink butt connectors. I just pulled back the loom, cut the wire stripped the ends and put both switch ends of wire in one end of the connect and the power end in the other. You have to crimp down really hard though to make sure it's tight, and I give a nice tug on the wires to make sure it's tight before heating it. The heat shrink on those connectors really seals everything in and it's not going anywhere once done. I haven't had any issues with the lighting.
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Front: Toytec/Bilstein 5100 adjustable coilovers at 2.5". Rear: Bilstein 5100 with OME 895E rear coils.
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04-17-2016, 01:19 PM
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#5
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bergenfield NJ.
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Real Name: Greg
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
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Real Name: Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeser
"...One thing that I am trying to do is not splice into any wiring. I hate the t-taps, although the Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap may be a better option, or soldering of course...just a bit harder to do in getting hands in there..."
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Hi cheeser,
I do understand you not wanting to cut-into (butcher) the factory wiring in your new 4Runner. However, these vehicles aren't made with add-on tap terminals for those who want to do electrical mods! There a host of places where you can connect to the illumination (courtesy lighting) circuit to allow your AOB dash switch to glow along with the others when the parking/headlights are on e.g., temp control, front de-icer switch... even the HU. The reason that the dimmer dial won't work with the tail lighting is because the dimmer works on the ground side (Gray wire). I'm aware that you don't have the woofer speaker switch (party mode sw), or the RSCA (air bag defeat button), but there's still the de-icer and heater buttons.
If you're interested in illuminating your AOB sw, the green wire on those buttons are HOT and the Gray wires are GND. If you intend to modify your truck you'll need to initiate changes; I'm not even sure if Metra-online make harnesses for each and every wire in the truck so I can't even make that recommendation. I've been around a long time and have yet to see a method of splicing wires in the dash without tampering with the insulation or I would have gone that route. I think the main thing is to make your mods carefully and Reversible wherever you can. I know I didn't solve your problem but I hope you can take something away from this post, Rgds
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Last edited by rigtec; 04-17-2016 at 05:00 PM.
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04-17-2016, 01:56 PM
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#6
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Join Date: May 2015
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Thanks everyone...most of the suggestions I have seen in a number of posts, but do appreciate them.
I would like the illumination to work...I am not that concerned with dimming though.
Does the panel in that area simply pull off so we can get our hands in there.
I was an electronics tech way back when I was in the military, so I can solder / splice fairly well. I am just a bit lazy now in splicing in to the harness.
I was hoping that Toyota did us a big favor in pre wiring vehicles with a fairly standard harness, but just left the connectors dangling since there wasn't a switch installed for some function.
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2023 SR5 Hefty FabWorks Slider, Falken AT4W
Sold- 2016 TE w/KDSS, Bilstein 6112 (6 passenger, 5 driver) & 5160 w/T13 springs, Firestone Destination AT, Hefty FabWorks Sliders, IS 690TOY Speakers, Husky Liners WeatherBeaters, Covercraft SeatSavers
Last edited by cheeser; 04-17-2016 at 02:01 PM.
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04-17-2016, 05:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bergenfield NJ.
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Real Name: Greg
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bergenfield NJ.
Posts: 2,605
Real Name: Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeser
Thanks everyone...most of the suggestions I have seen in a number of posts, but do appreciate them.
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It just occurred to me that you can buy a headlight extension harness which connects between the H-11 (Lowbeam) socket and the factory lighting harness. You make your connection there, and so never have to tamper with the factory wiring. Here's a link to the extension for the headlights; I'm sure there's one for the parking lamps as well: HiseNook 2 Piece H8/H9/H11 Extension Adapter Wiring Harness Sockets Wire Cable for Headlight - Extension Cords - Amazon.com... that's the best thing I could come up with for now,
Cheers
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Commercial hvac diagnostics/electrical specialist (Steamfitters Journeyman Local 475)
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04-18-2016, 10:31 PM
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#8
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Doing a bit more searching and found a thread by
@ barryhiram
where he found an unused 8 wire white female plug behind the dash and tapped into that. Looks like I just need to see if I am lucky enough to have it as well.
I also noticed that AOB has the blue LED light bar switches in stock...finally.
12 Volt 3amp ON-OFF Toyota OEM Replacement Push Switch with LED blue lights -Air On Board
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2023 SR5 Hefty FabWorks Slider, Falken AT4W
Sold- 2016 TE w/KDSS, Bilstein 6112 (6 passenger, 5 driver) & 5160 w/T13 springs, Firestone Destination AT, Hefty FabWorks Sliders, IS 690TOY Speakers, Husky Liners WeatherBeaters, Covercraft SeatSavers
Last edited by cheeser; 04-19-2016 at 09:25 AM.
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04-22-2016, 10:27 PM
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#9
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How does one remove the old switches/plugs in the dash, or pull off the plastic dash trim that the lights are in to obtain more working room?
Didn't if I could simply yank on the term and then remove plugs with a release clip.
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2023 SR5 Hefty FabWorks Slider, Falken AT4W
Sold- 2016 TE w/KDSS, Bilstein 6112 (6 passenger, 5 driver) & 5160 w/T13 springs, Firestone Destination AT, Hefty FabWorks Sliders, IS 690TOY Speakers, Husky Liners WeatherBeaters, Covercraft SeatSavers
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