:sawzall:

Do we have the sawzall emoticon? That is the standard answer on Tacomaworld when someone says my tires rub.

Tires rubbing are like nails on a chalk board in my world.

Please tell me at the mention of crash testing you whipped out the sawzall and told Mr. Swear to quit being a wuss.

So, there is something to be said about target audience here. I just wrote a thread where I pointed at the body mount with my index finger I am going to link up your thread to my write up to make sure that if someone comes across mine they will also get the benefit of your know-how. That said, you don't think there is any credence in the recommendation to set the caster (angle) higher to clear the body mount? Curious your thoughts... Thanks.

We talked to him at length about mods we do, mechanical and electrical. He travels around watching the mods. They watch the Toyota enthusiasts and show us a lot of interest. He just mentioned it was too late for them to change it.

He pointed out the ridiculous stuff they go through for testing. Once Toyota changed a headliner in a Camry and the NTSB required new crash test data.

So, they hear what we want but there are constraints.

Sounds like a job for 1engineer to me. I know he's posted on this previously because he replied to several of my questions. On the other hand, I agree w/ Ryan, that would this (i.e. Rolling weight) would be a worthy and important addition to this thread. 1engneer has so much relevant info & his posts are both very informative and practical.
Thanks everyone for posting!
JD

Few months out. Things are still good. Took a spin crawling at the iron range (MN) and added 100lbs to the front end with the wench. Still no rub. Again 285/70/r17's on 17x8.5 rims, no front mud flaps,+ fender mods, 3.5 inch lift (icon stage 2).

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Hate to bump an old thread, but I had a question about throwing 285/70/17's on my 2011 SR5. Currently, the suspension is stock, except for 5100's in the front set at 0.85. Besides the front fender mod, is there anything else that I should know about throwing 285's on? Will I have any issues in the rear? Am I ok running 285's with the 5100's set to 0.85? I'm asking, because I found a killer deal on some 285's locally, and have wanted to beef up my tires. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

You have to get your tires to fit at stock height first without rubbing. Why?

Lifting a vehicle will only help with tire clearance in a static condition. What that means is, if you lift a vehicle 1" to get your tires to clear, when your suspension travel compresses 1" while off road you are back to stock height for that instant.

You have to make sure your tires clear through the whole range of suspension travel or else you will rub while off road.

So, according to the chart you made, I should be good to go with just the fender modifications and mud flap removal?

I never said anything about lifting the vehicle, just stated what I am currently running. Also, thank you for the clarification on the stock height setup and rubbing while offroad.

No, you are not "good to go." I mentioned lifting because you implied that was important by mentioning you are set at .85.

Depending on factory caster setting (still within proper range but on the low side for example) you could rub on the body mount.

If you want to put 285's on, you have to be committed to modding to get rid of rubbing. Those mods could include:

Trimming bumper cover
Trimming mudflap
Moving inner fender liner
Removing mudflap
Body Mount Chop
Getting an alignment and pushing caster up

...or, you might not rub at all. Every vehicle is slightly different.

Well that definitely makes me reconsider buying the tires. Thanks for the information.

I'll add to @1engineer by saying that you really need to replay the saying "pay to play" in your head. Many modifications from stock come at a cost/sacrifice somewhere else. We're among many members who are prepared with the skills, time and $$$ to chase the dominos when they begin to fall. If you just want to "beef up" your tires (without the headache,) stay closer to a stock size in an LT rating.

I just saw 275/65/18 Cooper ATPs on my Limited with 8.5" Vortex wheels. (a barely wider stance than trail wheels) They would've rubber on the mud flap for sure... of that gives any perspective on the 285s.

I posted this in the huge wheel and tire fitment thread, but thought it might be relevant here since this is secific to 285s.

These are 17x8s with 4" BS, wrapped in 285s (285/70r17). They stick out a hair past flush, but it us still relatively subtle. I eyeballed a bit over 32.75" with my tape measure, so they are pretty standard size-wise. Agressive mud tires with squarer shoulder lugs might be at greater risk of rubbing.

I pushed the front of the fender liners forward at least 1.5 inches (about as far as I could) and have the mudflaps removed. It has a pretty typical alignment, but looking at the LCA cam bolts there should be some room to increase caster and push the wheels forward a bit.

I got it as far into "full stuff" as I could. With the left front on a mound, completely turned to the left, and the left rear quite a ways off the ground. Tere was about 1/4 to 3/8" of space between the back of the tire tire and the body mount.

This is on a TRD pro with factory suspension, so I am not 100% sure how this might work with TE or SR5 factory suspension for aggressive wheeling. (Does the TRD front suspension just use springs to increase the ride height, so overall travel is not actually changed? Or are there other hardware differences that change the front ride height?) There isnt a huge difference in static ride height, though, so this might still work on a TE or SR5.

Hope this helps!

I completely agree with @1engineer 's advice. You have to be willing to commit. Most of the info about what you need to do is in my first post on this thread or in the hyperlinked threads. That said. I have no regrets about going with 285'a. Again, the research is the fun part ;)