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Old 06-18-2016, 07:12 PM #1
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AOB switch and Black Oak lights wiring

hi there (I have a 4runner 2016 SR5, did multiple searches and since I don't want to mess up the ECM I have to get this right ....I bought one pair of 2 inch pods LED spot lights and a light bar from Black Oak and I would like to wire them using 2 AOB switches that I have already .
I want to be able to use them when the ignition is ON only (not triggered by the high beams) with the dimming and illumination working.
I'm sure the red green blue black wires coming out of the AOB is standard to all their switches...
my question is : I have black , red and blue wires going to the factory Black Oak harness switch , how do all these wires connect without making a mistake .
I read about using the wiper warmer switch but want to be sure ...
thanks, Erick.
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:43 PM #2
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I was just about to post something similar. Doesn't seem to be a step-by-step write up anywhere. I only have the single AOB switch for my 30" bar and I'm terrified to mess it up.

Do i connect any wires from the light itself directly to the switch or does everything run through the relay? Confusing.
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:29 PM #3
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I don't know about the harnesses that come with other lights, so you may need to find out if your switches will handle the amps running straight thru if no relays are present.

If wiring without a harness you can go by the diagram below.

@airbusa380 , you will need to identify what each wire does obviously, but for the sake of both postings above, I wanted to include this diagram for both of you.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:37 PM #4
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This link may help for using an AOB switch in lieu of the switch that came with the LED kit. I assume you have a good reason to wire both spots independently (like ditch lights), otherwise you could wire the two spots to a single harness and use one switch.

The 3 wires from the Black OAK switch are likely 1) Hot lead (12 volt positive +), 2) Relay trigger wire (connecting hot lead to this wire would engage/trigger relay turning on light bar), 3) Ground wire (negative -), but please check the wiring diagram that game with your harness.

As Saker's wiring diagram above, for illumination, the AOB switch wiring is:
Black - Connect to gray factory wire (- dimming)
Blue - Connect to green factory wire (+)
Red - Connect to relay trigger wire to power the relay when switch is engaged/turned on
Green - Connect to hot lead (ignition source in your case using adapter below to provide power when ignition is on)

Use THIS to tap into your fuse box for activating the switch with ignition on.

Picture courtesy of MTN4RNR.

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Old 06-18-2016, 11:41 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paragon1 View Post

Do i connect any wires from the light itself directly to the switch or does everything run through the relay? Confusing.
No, please see Saker's diagram above, you should use the relay to activate the secondary circuit which allows the battery power to flow to your LED. Basically the relay is allowing a lower amp circuit (connected to the switch) to safely power a higher amp circuit (LED light, fridge, compressor, etc).
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:11 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saker View Post
I don't know about the harnesses that come with other lights, so you may need to find out if your switches will handle the amps running straight thru if no relays are present.

If wiring without a harness you can go by the diagram below.

@airbusa380 , you will need to identify what each wire does obviously, but for the sake of both postings above, I wanted to include this diagram for both of you.
Saker , thanks... The black Oak pods come with harnesses and relays...
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:22 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutty01 View Post
This link may help for using an AOB switch in lieu of the switch that came with the LED kit. I assume you have a good reason to wire both spots independently (like ditch lights), otherwise you could wire the two spots to a single harness and use one switch.

The 3 wires from the Black OAK switch are likely 1) Hot lead (12 volt positive +), 2) Relay trigger wire (connecting hot lead to this wire would engage/trigger relay turning on light bar), 3) Ground wire (negative -), but please check the wiring diagram that game with your harness.

As Saker's wiring diagram above, for illumination, the AOB switch wiring is:
Black - Connect to gray factory wire (- dimming)
Blue - Connect to green factory wire (+)
Red - Connect to relay trigger wire to power the relay when switch is engaged/turned on
Green - Connect to hot lead (ignition source in your case using adapter below to provide power when ignition is on)

Use THIS to tap into your fuse box for activating the switch with ignition on.

Picture courtesy of MTN4RNR.

Cutty01 thanks...I am not using two switches to operate the 2 spots just 1 switch ...what I meant was 1 switch for the spots and 1 switch for the light bar.
I will be using 2 factory harnesses for the 2 spotlights they each have a relay and inline fuse .
Both of these harnesses will be wired to one AOB switch.
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:58 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbusa380 View Post
Cutty01 thanks...I am not using two switches to operate the 2 spots just 1 switch ...what I meant was 1 switch for the spots and 1 switch for the light bar.
I will be using 2 factory harnesses for the 2 spotlights they each have a relay and inline fuse .
Both of these harnesses will be wired to one AOB switch.
Sorry, I misread. Good luck with your install. Please post pictures and tips once you get it done.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:28 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saker View Post
I don't know about the harnesses that come with other lights, so you may need to find out if your switches will handle the amps running straight thru if no relays are present.

If wiring without a harness you can go by the diagram below.

@airbusa380 , you will need to identify what each wire does obviously, but for the sake of both postings above, I wanted to include this diagram for both of you.
Is that a 3amp Diode in on the green wire? The AOB instructions call for a 1amp. What does the 3A get you? Sorry for my newbish questions, Im limited in my understanding of electronics beyond installing speakers and basic stereo installs.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:49 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paragon1 View Post
Is that a 3amp Diode in on the green wire? The AOB instructions call for a 1amp. What does the 3A get you? Sorry for my newbish questions, Im limited in my understanding of electronics beyond installing speakers and basic stereo installs.
Not a diode, it's a 3 AMP fuse shown.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:08 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paragon1 View Post
Is that a 3amp Diode in on the green wire? The AOB instructions call for a 1amp. What does the 3A get you? Sorry for my newbish questions, Im limited in my understanding of electronics beyond installing speakers and basic stereo installs.
I was under the impression that a diode was not needed if the wiring was not of the high beam triggered type ?
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:10 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paragon1 View Post
Is that a 3amp Diode in on the green wire? The AOB instructions call for a 1amp. What does the 3A get you? Sorry for my newbish questions, Im limited in my understanding of electronics beyond installing speakers and basic stereo installs.
Usually, diodes are needed if you have two or more power sources feeding a single source input. For example, you would use a diode between the AOB switch and the relay if you used the switch to activate the relay and wanted the high beams to activate the relay also. The diode prevents back feeding of the power through the other circuit that could cause the other circuit to be possibly activated or damaged.

See the diagram below for negative switched vehicles. Note Saker and I are recommending slightly different wiring for the black wire so your switch dims with the illumination circuit.

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Old 06-19-2016, 11:27 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbusa380 View Post
I was under the impression that a diode was not needed if the wiring was not of the high beam triggered type ?
@airbusa380 ,
My high beam circuit is my trigger, I have not had any issues with my setup on this and previous vehicles where I have run this setup.
I am not using a diode, only a fuse inline on the trigger wire.
I may try a 1 AMP fuse to see if it holds up, which it probably will....
Hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cutty01 View Post
Usually, diodes are needed if you have two or more power sources feeding a single source input. For example, you would use a diode between the AOB switch and the relay if you used the switch to activate the relay and wanted the high beams to activate the relay also. The diode prevents back feeding of the power through the other circuit that could cause the other circuit to be possibly activated or damaged.

See the diagram below for negative switched vehicles. Note Saker and I are recommending slightly different wiring for the black wire so your switch dims with the illumination circuit.

@cutty01 ,
Thanks!
I just came back with my diagram and see you have already posted.
Appreciate the response!


Also:
Attached Images
AOB switch and Black Oak lights wiring-scan-jpg 
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Old 06-19-2016, 01:26 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutty01 View Post
Usually, diodes are needed if you have two or more power sources feeding a single source input. For example, you would use a diode between the AOB switch and the relay if you used the switch to activate the relay and wanted the high beams to activate the relay also. The diode prevents back feeding of the power through the other circuit that could cause the other circuit to be possibly activated or damaged.

See the diagram below for negative switched vehicles. Note Saker and I are recommending slightly different wiring for the black wire so your switch dims with the illumination circuit.

Cutty01 thanks for your help and Saker too , your diagram does not match mine though look at the wires coming out of the switch ..which adds to my confusion and caution,
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AOB switch and Black Oak lights wiring-img_2586-jpg 
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Old 06-19-2016, 01:50 PM #15
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The only difference between DIAGRAM 1 and my diagram is I have a fuse on the trigger wire & the switch ground is not to earth, but to the grey wire on the wiper warmer circuit so the dimming will take place on the switch like the other switches.
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