I've tried searching for solar panel installs, but haven't really come across much other than an install on a 3rd gen where they ran the wires through the back, I believe it was. I was a little surprised at my lack of results, as it seems talk of solar panels on our trucks is frequent enough.

Anyhoo, I live in Arizona, where sometimes it gets warm. I also have an ARB fridge, which I've found drains my aux yellow-top battery in about a day or so, since the temp inside the 4R reaches 140-150 during the day. I bought the fridge to have cold drinks anytime, anywhere. Now with my job being only a 2 mile drive, I don't drive enough to keep the battery regularly charged. I was wanting to get a 100W panel to leave on my roof rack to try and keep the battery more charged.

Obviously, the best performance would be by having the shortest distance wires from the panel to the battery. But the wires are 10ga each, and if the 4R exterior panels on the A pillar are anything like the FJ's (from what I remember), I doubt I'd be able to get 2 under there and get the panel back on and looking stock. Am I wrong on that? Or are my only solutions to either go through the back (or maybe through the sharkfin) or otherwise, drill through the roof? I plan on keeping the 4R "forever", so I'm not completely against drilling, although it would be a last resort. Otherwise, does anyone know how much performance of a solar panel might degrade by running the wires to the back of the vehicle and then through the interior into the engine compartment, rather than the much shorter distance of either drilling or going down the A pillar?

Thanks!

You might want to check this out for the things you were looking for a good read about this website is they specialize in solar powered equipment. Best of luck dude.

Figured I would update a dead thread to show my solution and ask for any better options

I wanted the wires to basically come straight off the back and into the tailgate, but the tailgate pinches too closely against the roof when you raise it. A little to the side and there was no pinching.

Thanks for posting the pics @jhguth !! I'm working on this same project currently and your tips are just what I needed.

I'm curious; how did you get the wires through the grommet (ie - make a clean hole without destroying it)? Also, any concerns about it leaking there? Cheers!

I just used a knife and made a small x, it's easy to remove the grommet and there is loads of space through the grommet and in the rubber boot. The hole is at the top so water shouldn't be able to get in and I have a drip loop on the wire, but I also covered with tesa tape to make sure none of the hole is exposed and the wire is loomed.

Excellent. Thanks a million!

This : Waterproof Fittings Thru-Dex(R) Series - DC Power Onboard

or

Search door wire eliminator. Be sure it is stainless and not brass, like this...

Danny's Rod Shop - Cool Parts for Cool People - Wiring Kits

Still need to clean up the engine bay wiring and mount the charge controller in its final spot, but i connected everything to test and it's working perfectly

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I did a similar thing. Routed the wires slightly differently but ended up through the grommet. I brought mine down to where the jack is and plug it into my goal zero yeti when I have it in the truck. I also recently wired a chase light and also brought it through the grommet so i could bring it through the cab, through the firewall, to the battery.

Good luck! Its pretty easy overall. I did put some silicone on the grommet just to be safe.

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@jhguth - Really like this setup. I have been looking for some examples of solar panels on different roof racks. I was curious how you secured the panel so neatly between the crossbars? Thanks again for the great post and pics.

I drilled through the side of the LFD crossbars and through the aluminum frame of the panel and used small SS screws to attach them together. When i aligned the holes i set the panel on spacers so that it is slightly recessed, i can still throw lumber or something on the rack without the panel being in the way (although in a couple minutes i could remove the whole assembly of crossbars and panel if i wanted with a single tool)

Only thing that didnt work well were the 3m wire clips to organize the wires under the panel, i think it wasnt real 3m adhesive and some of them have popped off. Need to take it off and and replace a couple with zip ties

Crossbar attachment - Album on Imgur

I run the solar and lighting wires from my RTT down a conduit on the A pillar. Works fantastic.

I don't permanently mount mine. It's on for trips, off otherwise and stored in my garage. There's no reason I have to leave the wiring in place during driving. I literally just glued the charge controller to the back of the solar panel. So... when I'm parked at camp - I run aligator clips to my battery. When I'm driving - I coil them up and put them in the back.

In generally I think you'll find that you're better served to have solar panels that are not fixed to the roof. If it's hot - you want to park the car in the shade and have the solar panels in the sun. You will typically also want to move the panel orientation through the day to get the best charging. If I didn't already have rigid solar panels for my trailer - I would not buy rigid panels. I would buy a fold up solar setup.

With a 100 watt panel, you could get away with significantly smaller than 10 AWG. Closer to 14 AWG would be adequate for the current generated by that panel.

Keep in mind the panel operating voltage is different than the cars electrical system. You only need to worry about wiring between the panel and the solar charge controller.

Under load from the solar charge controller the panel is usually sitting around 17.5 volts, and at 100 watts that would be approx. 5.7 amps, well within the capability of 14 AWG wire.

I highly recommend getting a nice MPPT controller like the Victron Smart Solar units. I have bought many over the years and these have been the best of the best.

SmartSolar MPPT 75/10, 75/15, 100/15 & 100/20 - Victron Energy

Does anyone have good experience with mounting solar charge controllers in the engine bay? I'm currently trying to find a good MPPT that is weather proof but just wanted to understand the best location for it given the heat inside the bay etc. My current thinking is to mount it on top of the factory fuse box but that space may, in the future, be occupied by S-Pod so I really want to avoid doing that. Any good place on the passenger side?