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Old 07-20-2016, 09:24 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryhiram View Post
It reacts to dimmer setting same as illumination. Zero ECU issues here 4 years later.
Thanks for the input. I guess then the Dimmer circuit in ECU is powered all the time keeping "high ground" voltage regardless if illumination is on or off. Your experience is reassuring. BTW, where did you get the +12V to the switch from? Direct from battery?

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Originally Posted by barryhiram View Post
you could take the 5th pin (unused) on switch, cut board traces to separate connections on board, cut board shared led ground trace so "switch on" led is separated, connect a dedicated ground wire to 5th pin, then solder lead from pin to ground side of "switch on" led, thus two led's would be separate for both power and ground.
This would be solution if I would want to have one LED run full power regardless of the dimmer setting. But it would be annoying while driving at night.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:33 PM #32
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All time power for both switches
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:33 PM #33
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Originally Posted by RysiuM View Post
BTW, where did you get the +12V to the switch from? Direct from battery?
.
Yes...A-lot of people tie into the high-beams (see @Saker 's install that I linked in the first post) but I wanted something simple and so that I could turn it on without the ignition "on". I know the risk of leaving on the light but these things are so damn bright I don't know how I could (until I do).

Another route is to add a fuse. See the linked thread in the first post by @MTN4RNR .
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:53 AM #34
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Hi @Cymon ...

This write-up provides such great detail and insight that I wanted to Thank you for all the time and effort you spent to execute it! "...Being such a valuable contribution to these forums, many members (and visitors) will benefit for sure! Five stars***** Keep it up"!

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Old 07-21-2016, 06:17 AM #35
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Originally Posted by rigtec View Post
Hi @Cymon ...

This write-up provides such great detail and insight that I wanted to Thank you for all the time and effort you spent to execute it! "...Being such a valuable contribution to these forums, many members (and visitors) will benefit for sure! Five stars***** Keep it up"!

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Thank You!
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:08 AM #36
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Very very nice write up, man. If it's okay with you I'm going to add it to the Consolidated Lighting Thread!
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:16 AM #37
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Very very nice write up, man. If it's okay with you I'm going to add it to the Consolidated Lighting Thread!
Absolutely...I'd love it to be used in any way that can help, inform and/or instruct.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:38 AM #38
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Thanks for this, awesome contribution. I had installed some lights behind the grille of my 2004 Tacoma some 10 years ago with a basic switch and fuse and LOVED having them for driving in remote places. Now that I have the 4runner (which IMO has pretty weak stock lighting) I intend to do the same and have been just avoiding it haha.

Now I am motivated to knock it out once I return from a week up in Montana where I am sure I will be wishing I'd already done it!
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:10 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RysiuM View Post
This would be solution if I would want to have one LED run full power regardless of the dimmer setting. But it would be annoying while driving at night.
I just remembered that I did similar thing for rear fog lights (EU thing). Besides replacing LED's with correct "orange" color I modified AOB switch as follows:



The top LED, red back-light for the fog light symbol (rear fog light is red) is not dimmable for the purpose of being a "warning light" as it is illegal to run rear fog light when there is no fog (rear fog would blind drivers behind).

For light bar I think I will use illumination +12 to power the switch (light bar via a separate 30A fuse and 40A relay will be powered directly from the battery). This way I will be able to turn on light bar with engine off and no keys in the ignition but the Main Body ECU would still turn it off via timer together with other lights. The additional benefit would be that I will need to run only one wire through the firewall (light bar fuse and relay will be mounted in the engine compartment).

BTW for light bar I did not use original AOB switch but some e-bay knock-out directly from China. From the outside and inside it looks 100% the same for 1/3 of the price. Ah, I'm cheep. I did not want to spend 40 bucks for a switch to 60 dollars light bar - it did not feel right to me. I replaced both LEDs (bottom is "toyota orange" and top is bright green) and resistors (from 2.2l to 1.5l) anyway so really the only thing left "made in China" is the switch itself, but ... all switches are made in China anyway.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:55 PM #40
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Confirmation & Questions

Thanks to everyone for posting all of the LED and switch information in all the threads that are linked through this one. I created the summary diagram below for those
who will be using a OPT7 22inch LED with an AOB switch. It is based on prior instructions and answers to follow-up questions over the past couple days.

Two recommendations when using installing the OPT7 relay harness and an AOB switch.
1) Consider the amperage for the LED bar. For the OPT7 22", the 30A fuse can be replaced with one of lower amperage - I plan on using a 15A fuse in place of the 30A.
2) Wire up the Wiper Warmer wires first and confirm that the AOB switch lights up with the rest of your dash and dims with the T4R dimmer dial. This will also help
prevent accidentally cross-wiring HOT 12V to the ground wire.

(FYI... If anyone has any corrections, please let me know and I'll update.)
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Last edited by rdswriter; 08-02-2016 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:22 PM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdswriter View Post
Thanks to everyone for posting all of the LED and switch information in all the threads that are linked through this one. I would like to get clarification from you on the diagram below. Based on all the feedback... It appears that this represents the correct schematic for using a OPT7 22inch LED and an AOB switch. I do have three questions as outlined in the yellow boxes too. So my questions:
1) Is this schematic correct?
2) Do I need to add a 3A fuse between the OPT7 relay and the AOB switch? Should I anyway?
3) The 30A fuse that comes with the OPT7 harness seems excessive for the overall wattage of the 22" LED light bar. Should this be reduced to 15A or 20A? What have others done?
4) Most importantly... I'm thinking that I should wire up the dimming light to the Wiper Warmer switch first. Verify that the dimming light works just to ensure that I don't accidentally cross-wire or even touch the HOT 12V to the ground. Thoughts?

(FYI... once I get some feedback, I'll edit this post to have an "final" schematic.)

Thanks.
1) Looks correct to me, that's how I did it here.
2) No, you don't need the fuse there, although you could add one if you really wanted. From how @rigtec explained it to me in his opt 7 thread that I'll link again here, you would want a diode or fuse if you were integrating into other vehicle systems like the high beams.
3) As far as I know having an over rated fuse is safer. I have had no issues so far with the harness as is. (Edit: You don't want higher fuse so that it does blow)
4) That is exactly what I did and think it is a good plan. The switch worked on the dimmer without the opt7 harness attached so it is a good test (and confidence booster).

Hope this helps! Good Luck with the install, and if you have further questions post or pm me.

Oh the Link I promised...
Opt7 leds
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:01 PM #42
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Thanks for the responses, but I have to disagree on #3 based on my understanding. of circuits. The higher the amperage fuse... the more likely it is to NOT fail in the event of wires heating up. That being said, if the OPT7 wires and relay are all sufficient enough to handle 30A... then it won't matter. And if no one else is lowering the fuse amperage, then I will leave it alone.

What slightly concerns me if you get more than a 3A pull for some reason to the switch. In that event the switch would burnout/fail rather than an additional inline 3A fuse... but I don't know if that is even possible via the relay. I don't really have any experienced with relays... can they even provide that much amperage to via switch feed wire? My gut is telling me that I'm overthinking this and I should just leave the OPT7 fuse/relay intact 'as is'.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:51 AM #43
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Originally Posted by rdswriter View Post
Thanks for the responses, but I have to disagree on #3 based on my understanding. of circuits. The higher the amperage fuse... the more likely it is to NOT fail in the event of wires heating up. That being said, if the OPT7 wires and relay are all sufficient enough to handle 30A... then it won't matter. And if no one else is lowering the fuse amperage, then I will leave it alone.

What slightly concerns me if you get more than a 3A pull for some reason to the switch. In that event the switch would burnout/fail rather than an additional inline 3A fuse... but I don't know if that is even possible via the relay. I don't really have any experienced with relays... can they even provide that much amperage to via switch feed wire? My gut is telling me that I'm overthinking this and I should just leave the OPT7 fuse/relay intact 'as is'.
On #3 that was what I was trying to say, you just put it in more correct terminology then I did. As for your gut telling you you're overthinking...
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:31 AM #44
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I don't have an OPT7 light setup, but I did reduce the fuse size to 15 10 Amps from the power source to the relay just to protect the system in the event that something would go haywire. I figured for my 120watt LED LIGHT BAR 120W/12V = 10A
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Last edited by Saker; 08-03-2016 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Correction on size fuse I used....
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:01 AM #45
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@Saker is correct in his statement...I was completely backwards and incorrect on the answer I gave above and mentioned so in an edit in the post. Although I will be sticking with the 30amp fuse as I don't have any plans to change it out and it is what the company sent with the relay made for this light bar...so I'm just "trusting" that it works.
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