My group 31M Battery is drawing down over 2 days where the truck has a hard time starting.

Only the compressor and the winch are wired directly into the battery. Should a cutoff switch have been installed between the winch and the battery?

Any input from users with winches is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Okki

Does the compressor have an "auto" setting where it is always keeping pressure in the tank?

Hey there Mr Okki! Okay so your aftermarket loads only include an 'Air Comp & Winch' is that correct... Is the air compressor on a pressure stat that maintains a predetermined pressure minimum? I'm trying to establish whether either of the two loads have reason to cycle on/off over night. If not you can perform a 'parasitic current draw test' to determine if either of your loads are stealing power on their own. They shouldn't though unless they're using some sort of processor with a memory! I'll wait to hear back from you before I draw an opinion on the matter.

rig

I haven't been able to do so yet myself but you really should have a cutoff switch between the winch and the battery anyway. Just for safety in case the solenoid locks on while the winch is operating. But the 2 questions about your compressor probably have more validity in this case.

The compressor is switched from the cab. There has been no (known) change there. There is no tank that's being kept full. If I need to air up, I flip the switch and the compressor comes on.

My suspicion is the winch since that was a recent addition. I did not wire that personally, so that's still a bit of an unknown. The dealer who is fixing another issue is testing the battery tomorrow.

Once the family events for the evening wrap up, I'm reading through all the paperwork I got with the winch to see if there are installation instructions and what they say.

Was mainly curious if a constant draw from the winch would be normal seems like a draw that makes the truck hard to start in 2 days is somewhat substantial for a appliance that is in an idle state.

Thanks Guys!

Edit: I've also not heard the compressor run, and with the time I've recently had to spend under my truck, I would have noticed if the compressor running was the issue.

...I neglected to ask you how old your 31M is @Okki ; there could be a breached partition between two cells draining current from within!

1 May, 2014. Is when I installed it. If it's a bad battery, hopefully the dealer test will show that tomorrow.

If you suspect the winch as culprit, pulling it's in-line fuse over night would be the simplest way to eliminate that suspect!

Two years doesn't seem to qualify that as a suspect at this point; it could happen but not a likely cause!

Yeah, I'm planning on disconnecting the winch once I get the truck back. If that is the issue, I'm curious as to why. Hence the question if folks normally install a cutoff switch on the winch and leave it turned off unless they need to have the winch operating.

Okki

I'd say disconnect the winch and see if it is pulling a load, although I'm willing to bet it is not. Almost every vehicle winch large enough to pull a 4runner out of the bush will have solenoids internally disconnecting the power until you press the in or out switch, so its really not possible for the winch to be pulling current on its own. I know that my M8000 is hardwired to my truck's battery and it just sat, no charger or maintainer on the battery, for the last 3 weeks while I was on vacation and it started right up like nothin'.

Having said that, a switch is a good safety measure that nobody really thinks of, myself included! I've heard of winch solenoids welding shut under super-heavy loads and not releasing when the switch is let go. I've seen bent up frames from the motor continuing to run while completely wound up with no way to shut it down. I've even heard of a vehicle catching on fire from an accident where it crushed the solenoid and turned the winch on by itself!

Of course, it depends on the load of your winch, but this would probably be the minimum switch to use:



Yes, that switch is ~$100.00, but its capable of safely holding 500A. As a reference, the Warn XD9000 motor pulls a max of 478 amps! Do NOT think you can just throw any old switch in there!!! I can guarantee that if it is not rated to hold continuously the load your motor pulls, you will have a glowing red switch when you need your winch the most! Nothing like having it fail and watching your 4runner burn everything under the hood!

There was no link or make/model for the switch

It's a brand new warn Zeon 10 S.

I installed a power interrupt switch primarily for safety. I witnesses a jk winch itself into a tree because the contacts in the winch welded closed. One of the two guys running the winch was nearly crushed while he was trying to pry the + clamp off the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/WARN-62132-Po.../dp/B000CQFVN8

DOH!

Let's try it again:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/300...Battery_Switch

Sorry, been a long day!!!

Before you change anything I suggest you do the following:

Have the battery load tested after being properly charged.

With it back in the vehicle, load test the charging system to make sure the alternator is working properly and charging the battery and supporting the electrical system.

Once the above is done and everything is back together, and there is still a problem - or no problem is found; start removing loads beginning with the last ones added. You may want to connect a current meter to make troubleshooting easier. It will tell you if there is any draw with everything supposedly turned off. Remember current is measured in series with the circuit.