Retrofitted my head lights to HID! So glad to be behind HID lights again! My
4th Gen was retrofitted with Acura TL's before I traded it in, so I was ready to get back to HID.
Struggled with getting the OEM headlamps open and ended up buying TYC headlamps. Baked each one at 285*F for 40 minutes and the fell apart like butter. Jury's still out on how well they re-sealed, but if I have any trouble with them, I'll buy glue from
The Retrofit Source (TRS).
Here's my parts list:
•IS350 projectors - (eBay) these have the holes for the bulbs on the side, just like the OEM's. They are also Bi-Xenon so they have a high beam solenoid. I wanted this feature.
•HID Kit - (TRS) these guys make great quality stuff. Used them before and NEVER had a problem with their stuff.
~~D2S bulbs 4300K - (TRS) the IS are D4S, but these bulbs fit the slot and groves with no modification needed. Plus, TRS doesn't sell D4S.
~~Ballasts - TRS's ballast have separate wire harnesses (included) so it you were in the middle of an upgrade from H11 (or other) to D2S, all you have to do is buy the harness.
~~Relay harness - (TRS) 5th Gens have H11 bulbs. The headlamps have a harness that connects to the OEM wiring and to the bulb through a grommet to help seal the headlamp. I removed this wire harness (I will cut and shorten it later) and connected it between the OEM wiring and TRS's relay harness.
•TYC headlamps - (eBay) your choice. I struggled with opening my OEM's and opted for these, because you have to remove the bumper to get to the headlamps so I wasn't rushed to finish and have the car drivable every day as it is my DD. The TYC headlamps came with the wire harness and all 4 bulbs
Tools:
•Dremel (or other compact cutting tool)
•QuikSteel - (Autozone) I thought these projectors would mount in the OEM holes on the mounting shroud and make this real easy. That was not the case. Don't let that deter you because QuikSteel dries in 10 minutes and is really easy to work with.
Remove the bumper:
Click here
Remove headlight - 4 bolts: 3 on top, 1 on the side
Remove all the bulbs, screws (including the 7 around edges of headlamp that help seal it) and pull the wire harness out of the plug.
Bake: 285*F for 40 minutes (for TYC lights - OEM: YMMV)
Pull apart headlamp and remove mounting shroud
The original projector is mounted to the shroud by three bolts. Before removing it, I clamped the shroud to a board and marked the cut off on the wall. Since I was using my garage door, magnets worked well and were adjustable as the process moved forward.
Next, with the IS projectors turned on, I moved them into the shroud to see how close it would line up to the original cut off. Using a dremel with a titanium carbide blade, I cut back enough of the shroud to fit the projector and ballast wire in place with the correct cut off. WARNING: the projector gets HOT!! Work fast.
With enough cut back, I used the QuikSteel to "glue" it in place, all the while holding the projector at the right cut off angle. See warning above.
Once the QuikSteel dried and is securing the projector top and bottom, I put more at the left and right. I was mindful not to cover bolts. I made it possible to go back and change out the lenses to STI-R for a cleaner cut off line if I feel so incline. I'm happy with it now, but I left the upgrade option available.
Haven't found a DARK alley to take pictures that do it justice, but here's what crappy night iPhone pics I have:
Haven't wired up the high beam solenoid yet. That will be on the next update.