[Cytronus]

@jayhat , appreciate the compliments! I try to keep a clean look. Completely agree on the gap of the Wilco! I wanted to mod it but it would’ve required a lot of fine cutting and welding which I wasn’t too keen of paying for. If you find a way, let me know! I’d like to tighten it up too.

@theikim, for the Emergency LED light wiring, I ran power (black and red) to the sPOD 8 channel unit. Control is via the sPOD LCD touchscreen in cabin. Love the sPOD!

[theikm]

Originally Posted by Cytronus

This past weekend I made some brackets for emergency amber LED lights.

The lights contain 4 bright LEDs on each, have an excellent water proof housing and a dark appearance when off, which lends to the stealth look behind the grille.

I picked these up on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The brackets I fabricated allow the lights to be mounted behind the upper grille mesh using existing threaded holes on the upper radiator support. Because they're mounted and wired separately from the bumper, the bumper can come off and back on without unbolting or unplugging the lights.

Once I get the roof rack on and a few other emergency lights installed, I will wire them all up together to the sPOD and create strobing effects.

would you happen to have the measurements for these brackets? I would like to do something similar.

[CarolinaBlue]

How is the 4runner handling the Patriot Camper X1? Any issues with towing offroad that much weight? Any overheating issues?

[Cytronus]

Originally Posted by CarolinaBlue

How is the 4runner handling the Patriot Camper X1? Any issues with towing offroad that much weight? Any overheating issues?

No issues at all with the X1 and I've watched the temp very closely, especially in the summer desert heat. I'm actually quite impressed with the 5th gen 4Runner's ability to pull the trailer over rough terrain and up steep hills. I thought for sure I'd need to get a Magnusson super charger but I've been pleasantly surprised with the stock power and think I'll be happy leaving it as is. The X1 is absolutely marvelous and I'm super glad I bought it.

[SKT_07]

Awesome thread - thanks for taking the time to document each project with detailed pictures and write-ups!

[trail cruiser]

Originally Posted by Cytronus

Today I added new 6 AWG welding wiring from the aux battery to a 50 amp circuit breaker with wire running to the rear, terminating with a 50 amp Anderson plug and weather proof TrailerVision housing with spring loaded, sealed door and a nice red LED light indicating power. I made a custom bracket to hold the unit which can mount in multiple locations if need be.

This will charge 2 lithium polymer 12V batteries on a camper trailer that I'm taking delivery of this weekend in Las Vegas. I'm pretty stoked but not about the 20+ hour round trip drive.

It was important to have a circuit breaker in line so that when doing water crossings where the plug at the rear may submerge, power can be cut by maually switching the breaker to prevent a short. I'm planning to leave the breaker "off" unless I'm pulling the trailer.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the Trailer Vision 50Amp Anderson SB850, I have been looking online and can only find it in AU websites, any help will be appreciated....Waiting for my Patriot Trailer to be delivered in a couple of weeks!!

[Cytronus]

I picked up the the Trailer Vision plug on ebay. It looks like they're still available from AUS by searching "trailer vision 50 amp". I actually broked the spring loaded lid on my rig wheeling in Tahoe last week. Darn! Gonna order a couple more, one for repair and a spare for another mishap. If you do mount underneath your OEM bumper as I did, make it tight and close to the tow hitch receiver. If you have a metal rear bumper, you could flush mount a face mount style trailer vision plug.

[geoalesolo]

Originally Posted by Cytronus

Special thanks to the huge hands-on help from infamousRNR and vital technical and materials input from Bumbo, most of the dual battery project is completed! The car started right up and the National Luna Isolator did its thing - charged the main starter battery and then charged the Aux battery.

I learned a great deal through this project and really glad to have added knowledge on electrical/dual battery systems that I can share with others.

Most of the work was in calculating wire gauge based on run length, amperage, voltage drop compensation, run times, heat AND in calculating the ring terminal sizes and stud hole sizes for each wire based on where it would be connected. I used the BlueSea Circuit Wizard app on iOS for all calculations.

I went with high quality Temco welding cable with thick shielding that supports high temperatures (221 degrees F), a must when considering the 4Runner's engine bay sees up to 195 degrees F. Temco ring terminals are stout, all tin plated copper to prevent oxidation. Both the wiring and terminals were ordered from Temco in Fremont, CA. If you use these guys, it's cheaper to call in, give your list, and pick up locally in Fremont. If you can't make it to Fremont, go to eBay. Highly recommend their stuff and great service. Welding cable is HEAVY. I'd say I added about 15-20 lbs of wiring up front, including looming and terminations.

I used a heavy duty 16 ton hydraulic hexagonal die press I picked up on Amazon for crimping the 6 gauge and larger terminals to the stripped wire ends. The press literally fuses the individual copper strands and ring terminal together as one solid piece of metal, which makes for a safe termination that helps prevent terminal overheating and fire. This method is preferable and safer than soldering and standard crimping methods for larger gauge wiring with high amperage.

Progress made includes:
- Aux battery terminals installed. Military grade lead with 3/8" studs
- Aux battery wired to National Luna isolator/controller and the main starter battery. Controller wire installed through firewall.
- ARB dual air compressor wired to main starter battery.
- New wiring & 50 Amp short block for sPOD 8 channel accessory unit run from aux battery and Ethernet for LCD touch screen controller run through driver side firewall.
- sPOD bracket is in for powder coating and should be installed next week
- Drilled 5/16" hole and installed new 5/16" studs/flange nuts in each OEM starter battery terminal connector to accommodate isolator connections, air compressor.
-50 Amp Bussman circuit breaker installed on passenger side, under air compressor for future wiring that will run from Aux. battery to trailer hitch to charge 2 Lithium trailer batteries via Anderson plug (SB50).
-All wiring properly terminated with heat shrink tubing, loomed, taped every 20" with 3" wide high temp electrical tape.

Lessons learned:
-Quality tools including cutters and hydraulic crimpers a must.
-Helper a must for wiring routing and hydraulic crimping.
-Should've gone with different aux battery terminal connectors that had 5/16" studs on them, to match OEM stud size and make it easier to/faster to service batteries simultaneously with the same socket size. Also, the terminations I used don't have any clearance for sockets to fit around them so an open ended monkey wrench is needed, which sucks.
-Should've ordered more wire loom, that stuff goes fast. Sizes of loom diameter don't match wire diameter at all. You'll need slightly bigger loom.

Next up:
-Route wire for National Luna controller under center console and stick on under side of lid with double-sided sticky tape (this reads out both battery's charge and has a jump from Aux battery button on it)
-Install sPOD LCD touch screen in cabin and connect Ethernet cable for accessory control
-Install 270 Amp DC Power alternator, which will give the 4Runner an additional 105 Amps over the stock 165, and augmented wiring based on the awesome write up by rigtec at "4Runner alternator upgrade (gen 5)".
-Install newly painted home made sPOD bracket and sPOD unit, connect wiring and begin installing accessories (bumper LED light bar and under hood light and more later)
-cut, strip, crimp terminals on new 6 AWG wiring to run from aux battery to circuit breaker to hitch and terminate with Anderson Plug to charge 2 camper trailer Lithium batteries
-Install trailer brake controller (likely in glove box)
-Install air lines and air tank for air compressor

More coming in a week or two!

Loved the write-up! I was wondering if you have pictures of how you reconnected the air pump back to the original connection or did you change it up when you relocated it?

[Cytronus]

Originally Posted by geoalesolo

Loved the write-up! I was wondering if you have pictures of how you reconnected the air pump back to the original connection or did you change it up when you relocated it?

The instruction manual that comes with Shrockworks Dual Battery Tray provide very clear direction and photos of this procedure. If you decide to add this tray, you'll have no trouble at all following along. Those guys did a stellar job on the installation instructions.

[geoalesolo]

Originally Posted by Cytronus

The instruction manual that comes with Shrockworks Dual Battery Tray provide very clear direction and photos of this procedure. If you decide to add this tray, you'll have no trouble at all following along. Those guys did a stellar job on the installation instructions.

I have the Bandi mount with air pump relocate kit and not the Shrockworks air pump relocate which is why I was asking. The instructions for my Shrockworks battery tray don't mention the air pump section.

EDIT: Found what I was looking for in another thread but so thanks
-Geo

[Cytronus]

Well, it's been a while since I've posted so here's an update on the rig, mods and trips.

Starting with the mods, a lot has been done including: Underhood LED lighting, a custom built air tank system in the spare tire cubby area with skid plate and air quick connects in both rear wheel wells, Prinsu full length non-drill rack installed with KC Flex 40 light bar, USR blacked out tail lights by DEPO, Rago MSP rear window load out and much more.

[Cytronus]

I picked up a set of Rago MSPs for a significant discount since they weren't painted, which is exactly what I wanted since I was planning on doing some customization to them. ...you know me!

I fab'd up some brackets for a set of the same amber LEDs I'm running behind my front grille, to provide side visibility and also made a pair of metal arms for LEDs facing rearward. The wiring for all 4 LED lights come together via simple anderson plugs and merge into a single red and black wire that run to the sPOD SE in the engine bay with a single button control to turn on and off.

After all the customization, I had them powder coated along with all the new brackets and hardware to really black them out. Also added a couple of Toyota OEM tie down hooks to the roof mounts - part # 58460-35012. A final touch was applying black rubber caps over all the nuts and studs for an ultra clean look and also prevents fabric snags and tears since there are some sharp edges there.

I then added molle pouches for things I'd want to grab regularly and quickly from the back window - flat tire repair kit, first aid, flash lights, knife, axe, shop towels, gloves, etc. I was careful not to block the entire rear passenger side window as I still want to see out of that window when backing out and parallel parking. I use the MSPs a ton and absolutely love them. A must have mod.

[Cytronus]

Rago MSP with custom amber emergency lights side and rearward facing. These have been amazing for backing out of my driveway, parking lots and when pulled over on the road shoulder at night.

[Cytronus]

the whole set up

[Cytronus]

the side LEDs aren't very bright during the day due to the window tint but they are still visible. They're perfect for night time however. I made the brackets to position the lens of the lights a mm or two from the window so there would be no light reflection into the cargo area. I didn't want it to be noticeable at all and that's exactly how it turned out. I ran the LED wiring from the passenger side under the rear seat and then through the driver side rear seat back tilt slit and under the floor door jam plastic moldings forward through the firewall.