I've had a LOT of questions sent my way about this mod, since I think I *may* be the first one to tackle it.

Essentially here's the challenge: For those of us running a swing away tire carrier, you're blocking the view of the factory camera in the tailgate. As such you get a sweet view of the back of the table for most aftermarket bumpers, especially the CBI. This makes backing up to a trailer especially difficult, or parking your truck in urban scenarios where an aftermarket bumper would absolutely DESTROY anything you backed into, people or vehicle included.

Solution: I didn't want to relocate the existing camera, as that would expose the inside to elements unnecessarily, and especially in the PNW that would lead to issues down the road. So I wanted to essentially bypass the camera with another OEM style camera.

The challenge is that the OEM camera is 6v, not the more common 12v. A 12v will work, but it's likely to either burn out or not work reliably. The solution came in the form of this kit:

https://camera-source.com/10-15-taco...-and-play.html

Not cheap, but 2-300 less than another factor OEM camera from Toyota or any other source such resource (Camelbak, etc.) This is the same cameras in in the Toyota systems, just as a plug and play backup unit and not in the same enclosure.

It has 4 leads: positive, negative, ground/trigger, and one that enables or disabled the parking line overlays (more on this later).

This kit is intended for use with the Tacomas, where accessing the harness is pretty simple since it's in the tailgate. But this is a 4Runner so it can't be that simple. So here's the challenge, getting the wiring from the tailgate (at the camera) to the swing arm.

The solution is simple but you'll have to call Camera Source and request a much longer cable harness. How much longer? LONG. Like 19' feet long. That's feet, not inches. Why? Because to get from inside the tailgate you'll have to snake up the tailgate, through the rubber connector from the tailgate into the headliner, down the driver D-pillar, under the leading edge of the cargo area scuff panel, out a grommet on the passenger side, and then under the vehicle...AND then you can go out to the swing arm. The distances are generally the same between the dual and single swing arms. If your camera sits on the driver side you obviously save 4-5' by not having to go across/under the kick panel.





The only cutting, splicing, soldering will be when you cut the plug off the factory tailgate backup camera. I searched for a week trying to find that connector, to essentially make an extension cord, but realized it was a waste of time because I had no intention of ever reverting back to the tailgate camera.



Once you make the cable run you can connect the camera. While I may eventually drill and tap holes for the mount bracket, we used 30+lb 3M semi-permanent tape, which is ridiculously strong but easy to remove down the road. We're also currently using cable keeper for the looming, but may eventually go to something more permanent with the use of those self tapping P-shaped cable brackets. But for now this works fantastic.



The end result is you get your camera back, and it's flexible for use with aftermarket swing aways.

Hope this helps. Figuring out the cable run, sourcing the camera, were all more time intensive than the install, which I'd say was maybe 1-2 hours max to make it clean.

Very well timed. Is this the easiest spot to tap in to the camera circuit? I would have to believe there must be another, closee access point

It's the most logical. It goes into a big cluster of cables in the wall panels, and then you're trying to isolate a very specific harness and have to take apart the vehicle.

Taking apart the rear tailgate panel is far easier and cleaner. So yes it's the easiest spot.

Just FYI, there is a harness you can buy to tap into the factory wiring without splicing. It plugs right into the factory head unit.

You can run a long power, ground and video cable then along the passenger sills to your camera (still a looooong run).

That's how I accomplished things on my truck. Hope to have a full write up in my build thread this weekend.

Okki

I didn't want to pull the head unit out, or run that long of a setup. If I was so inclined and sourced that connector that is the same style as the original tailgate camera, you could simply revert to the original camera if you ever decided. Either way if I need to check the cabling it's a lot easier to pull that tailgate panel off than to disassemble the entire head unit.

real slick man! that double swing-out is beautiful. I like the "lawndart" etching, and the classic 4 wheel drive decal.

oh and the camera
nice clean work as always

Thanks. The CBI Bumper is hands down the best bumper on the market, and the welds are just beautiful. The one they made for me is especially mindblowing with the double 2" hitches.

Getting the camera back was worth the effort. We solved this back in March but I've been too lazy to do a write up.

Nice job. I've been wanting todo this but just keep putting it off. Can we get a shot of the camera in action? Curious how the view is that far down?

I can grab one tomorrow.

Nice work. I believe the SSO Bumper provides the same instructions with their camera relocation kit. It was essentially a long extension cable that actually brought 6 cables (back up camera, license plate lights and back up lights). Same outcome but another way of getting there.

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do you have a link? I don't see anything on their website

At the time of this mod, around March, and at present there wasn't a kit outside of what came with their bumper.

This mod will work for any aftermarket bumper.

Sounds like a great business opportunity.

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If you were so inclined you could get Camera-Source to just start making their OEM camera with a super long harness and that'd be the kit. Not a ton of modification is necessary, just some basic understanding of cabling 'routin

So keep in mind that mine is RIGHT under my second hitch. On my single swing arm you didn't have anything obstructing the view, in fact I'd say just other than being lower you're only seeing the top of the rear spare tire in the top of the frame.

But with this setup, because of where sits, you do have more junk in the trunk so to speak. All I needed was to ensure I wasn't going to crash into a vehicle behind me when parallel parking, or when backing into a spot since I like to park rear in first, or when backing up to a trailer hitch for towing.