Hi Mike,

I have 2019 TRD ORP KDSS with 90lb roof rack and 120lb sliders. Have plans to install skids, front bumper and winch later.

Planning to get following suspension:
C59-314 F
IMS 574 F set at 213mm change to 226mm when more weight added
C59-325 +spacer? / C59-725 R
IMS 701 R
UCA's, Diff drop?

I'd like to have enough shock up travel as well as down travel. Also would like to be future proof when I add more weight in the front.

Could you provide pros/cons of 314 + 700 vs 314 + 574 set at 213mm vs 302 + 574 set at 226mm? I know that I need to have diff drop with 574.

My current preference is to have IMS-574 @213mm + 314.

What is the difference in valving between IMS-700 and IMS-574?

Do I need to get rear 15mm spacer if I have about 1/4 inch lean at the moment?

Hi Andrew,

You're better off doing like you said, 314's with 574's, that way if you add more weight, you can raise the coil seat to regain lost lift. The 700's don't have as much travel as the 574's, so when the 574's coil seat is raised, you're not adding as much preload to the coils. The con with using 314/700 would be not enough down travel later if you raise the coil seat height up, and less down travel reduces the ride quality over bigger bumps and uneven terrain.

574's are slightly softer than the 700 struts.

Rear spacer is a good idea with 2" rear lift and KDSS, add to the passenger side. Dobinsons isn't importing the 725's into the USA anymore, too many coils with too many colors and options, when the spacer gives exactly the same results with the 325 coils.

Yes, add UCA's and diff drop up front for the most travel, best alignment, and CV angles.

On the fence between the IMS or MRA suspension. I'm thinking 302 or 314 springs up front and 325 in the rear, with UCA's etc. Mostly pavement driving and will be used as daily driver at times. Most off-roading isn't too technical and I won't be doing any rock climbing.
Price difference is not a factor but not finding many reviews on the MRA. Trying to keep the wife happy with the ride quality.

Any insight is welcome.

Thanks in advance.

You really can't beat the adjustability of the MRA setup. It's also great for when you load up with additional weight to go on a trip you can change the shock setting so easily and then when you unload you can soften it up again. But if you will be rarely off-roading then the IMs setup would be more than adequate I think. I'm sure more people will reply through the weekend.

Building off of this, I am running the 700TTs and 701IMS and do a lot of highway miles. I personally think that the best ride is most likely achievable through the MRA (on and off road). However, in order to get that ride, you need to experiment with the settings. I like my 701IMS rears but if I could, I would adjust the rebound to make it a little stiffer/more rebound. But that's just me haha. Overall though the IMS are pretty comfortable on road with E-load tires. I went from 705s and do feel more bumps in the road but the big bumps are more controlled so not a bad tradeoff.

I got the MRR and if I could go back I would probably go with IMS and use the extra $$ for other mods. The adjustability is nice but a bit annoying to keep up with. IMS ride great already.

Honestly, that was something I was thinking regarding the MRA. I'm sure the best ride is possible with the MRA but how long to get everything dialed in "just right"?

Hi Mike,

Found you all over the internet when trying to research Dobinsons. I’ve been looking to upgrade my stock suspension. There’s so many options, I’m not sure what I should pick up.

I have a 2019 SR5P with 3rd row seats that get used occasionally fitting two adults (Asian so they fit. Lol). This is my daily driver and still new to the whole Offroad scene so I don’t see myself installing or loading anything heavy in my vehicle anytime soon. I still have yet to find out what I like and need when out and about.
I’m looking to eliminate the nose dive and (for lack of a better description) “floaty” feeling as much as possible.

I’m planning to upgrade my tires to either a 275/70/17 or 285/70/17 the same time I get the suspension done. What would you recommend?

I know you addressed it to Mike, but I’d liked to share my experience. I have the same trim 4runner, 3rd row as well. I went with the 302s, 2.5” fronts and 505, 1.5” rear paired with Bilstein 5100s. Stock UCA, no diff drop. 285s with Fn Pro X wheels installed in 2016. I do carry additional weight, full skids, rack, sliders, and full size E load spare. All seven seats occupied (our family makes them small too. Lol) and small travel bags loaded into the rooftop carrier, I’ll get some squat, I prefer rake. As the kids are growing slightly bigger, I just changed out to the 327s for 200-400 constant weight. I feel it rides better, but I will be changing the rear shocks since it seized on the lower bushing on the the driver side during install of the rear coils. I have UCAs and diff drop in the garage, just never installed them, alignment was good, no wandering. The picture attached is with the original setup no people inside. I hope it gives you an idea, but without the additional weight and riding around town with just people, no heavy mods use the 325s for the rear and the comfort feature.

Attached Images

 

Hey bud. Welcome to the 4Runner world!!

Based on the tire size you're looking at going up to, most people would opt for the 2.5" front and 2" rear (with a 3rd row seat that gets used). The 275's will fit easier with less chance for rubbing, but a lot depends on the wheels that you end up using. The more they stick out, it changes the turn radius and can cause more rubbing, and the wider tires are more likely to grab and rub the inner fender or body mount.

C59-302 up front with your choice of strut (GS59-700, IMS59-50700, MRA would be overkill for you) and C59-325 in the rear with GS59-705 or IMS59-50705 would be ideal.

UCA's aren't required at that front height, you can still get a good alignment. If you do add them though, adding more caster helps give better steering control and response, and also allows for easier/more free articulation up front than stock arms do when lifted.

Thanks for the info and photo Nicakdemus! I'm leaning towards a similar route as yours now. And at least now I know I can just upgrade springs if I do decide to start adding more weight the ride.

Thanks for the info, Mike. I've been leaning towards IMS since I wanted monotube struts, but a little over my price range. I'm definitely picking up the 302 & 325 springs. This way I'll have some spending money left in case I'll end up needing UCAs.

I was on the fence with the budget I set for a lift - ended up getting Freedom Offroad arms (was able to get 20% off, so they were $280) which helped cover the difference to step up to IMS. I'm VERY HAPPY I did go with the IMS.

Also, I've got the 302/325 combo (technically 725 but it's just got a built in spacer for KDSS). The lift height is right there where I could've gotten away without UCA's, it just drives a bit nicer at 80 with them. I drive about 30K/yr, so that was important to me.

I'm having a bit of an issue. I installed the following a few weeks ago: GS59-700/C59-300 | GS59-705/C59-599. I also put an OME 10mm spacer on the driver's side rear. I got an alignment done and have driven ~500mi (~25mi offroad). Below are my measurements.

Before:
DF: 20"
PF: 20"
DR: 21.5"
PR: 22"

Now:
DF: 22"
PR: 22.25"
DR: 23"
PR: 23.75"


I just took the measurements, and I only have 1/4 tank of gas. I can't make sense of the 3/4" difference in the rear. I don't have KDSS. Do the C59-599's have a driver and passenger side coil?

No, they aren't side specific. Probably best to check that the coils are both seated properly on the axle perch, and that the upper isolators are properly centered. That's really weird to have that sort of a lean on a non-KDSS. You can disconnect the rear sway bar on both sides and see if that's influencing a lean. It normally wouldn't though with such a small lift height.