Be sure to watch this video. It shouldn't take that long.
I got the front end done in about 3.5 hours, including taking some work calls and fiddling around with the KDSS in a 12' wide garage 😂.
The rear was about 3 hours, probably could've been quicker but was tired and didn't have the drivers spring compressed enough tring to get the passenger side 725 in... so probably 20 minutes of fiddling around.
@CementTruck
make sure you have a ratcheting 17mm and 18mm cresent wrench. I only had though 15mm so probably spent 25/30 minutes getting the top nuts of the rear shocks tightened.. there isn't much room up there.
Just wrapped up this video today, I finally got to detail how I suggest the install should go on a 4Runner.
Please feel free to share this to anyone who you think this could help.
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CrikeyMike, I just watched your suspension install video and I think I am ready to consider installing a lift. Would C302/700 and C505/705 level a stock 4runner with only RSG rock sliders installed?
I am looking to go 2.5" to 3.5" and pretty much leveled or just a slight positive rake (nose just slightly lower).
CrikeyMike, I just watched your suspension install video and I think I am ready to consider installing a lift. Would C302/700 and C505/705 level a stock 4runner with only RSG rock sliders installed?
I am looking to go 2.5" to 3.5" and pretty much leveled or just a slight positive rake (nose just slightly lower).
If you have any other suggestions, let me know.
Yes, that combo of parts you listed is super common and would be 2.5" front and 1.5" rear, leaving about 1" of rake.
If you want more lift up front, you'll need to also add UCA's to get the proper alignment. Not sure if you want to do that or not, as it adds more cost. You could go with 3" or 3.5" up front to make it more level if you want.
I got the front end done in about 3.5 hours, including taking some work calls and fiddling around with the KDSS in a 12' wide garage 😂.
The rear was about 3 hours, probably could've been quicker but was tired and didn't have the drivers spring compressed enough tring to get the passenger side 725 in... so probably 20 minutes of fiddling around.
@CementTruck
make sure you have a ratcheting 17mm and 18mm cresent wrench. I only had though 15mm so probably spent 25/30 minutes getting the top nuts of the rear shocks tightened.. there isn't much room up there.
Thanks for the advice, but I too did not have the ratcheting 18mm. And I also spent a good 20 minutes rotating the nut a quarter turn each time haha. Quarantine exercise, I guess.
Be sure to watch this video. It shouldn't take that long.
That's a great method/tip to unbolt the lower control arm, especially if you're not uninstalling the UCA! It allows for a perfectly free passage downward for the stock strut assembly, and makes it easy to reattach the lower strut bolt when finishing up. Great video, Mike!
That's a great method/tip to unbolt the lower control arm, especially if you're not uninstalling the UCA! It allows for a perfectly free passage downward for the stock strut assembly, and makes it easy to reattach the lower strut bolt when finishing up. Great video, Mike!
Thanks man. I've done it this way on all IFS 4x4 vehicles I've worked on. Suzuki, Nissan, Toyota, etc.
Thanks man. I've done it this way on all IFS 4x4 vehicles I've worked on. Suzuki, Nissan, Toyota, etc.
If replacing UCAs as well, would you still recommend doing it from the bottom? I have a vision of a two-phase approach. Undo the bottom, replace the struts/springs, reattach, and then undo the top and replace the UCAs. Reckon I'd have to think about it more...
If replacing UCAs as well, would you still recommend doing it from the bottom? I have a vision of a two-phase approach. Undo the bottom, replace the struts/springs, reattach, and then undo the top and replace the UCAs. Reckon I'd have to think about it more...
Yeah, that's still the way I'd do it. Do the lower arm first, put up the new struts, then do the UCA's afterwards.
Gotta say the ride on my 4runner has been so much smoother with the 302 coils! Not sure why it was an improvement over the 300s as they both have the same spring rate but I won't complain!
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2019 ORP - KDSS, Dobinsons C59-302/GS59-700 front and C59-725/IMS59-50701 rear, Dobinsons UCA, DuroBump/Daystar bumpstops, Sonoran Steel High Articulation tracbar, Marlin Crawler LCA frame brace, OGS Lo-Key Bumper w/ Warn VR EVO 10-S, RCI Sliders, fully armored with RCI/C4/Outgear Solutions skids, Falken Wildpeak M/T 285/70/17, LFD SS-Crossbars, ARB breather kit (Rear Diff and Locker), ScanGaugeII, Anytime Front/Backup Camera, onboard ARB Twin compressor MORRFlate kit, and DD SS3 Sport fogs
Looking to move from 3/2 Ready lift spacer kit on my Limited ( with retained X-REAS) to a Dobinsons setup.
After a year of harsh hi speed compression in the rear most likely because how the X-REAS system works with a strut spacer in front and spring spacer in the rear looking for a setup that is not as harsh
Dobinsons UCA are all ready installed
and diff drop already installed
After talking to exit off road
Stock weight
302/574 +3.5" front
327/705 comfort valved +2.5" rear
Linear Mode
