Yes that is all correct. That will get you that lift height you're looking for.

The sway bar links realign the sway bar to a more neutral position which allows for better articulation. The sway bar at a steep angle can inhibit the flex a bit. Someone on here posted photos with and without a few years ago and he had noticeable difference in flex left to right.

@Crikeymike finally getting around to adding bumpers. Totally owe you for my meltdown last year lmao. Starting in the rear so I ordered c59-327 in black from you.

Have a question about adding the LT front strut and 2” spring in the front to get 3” of lift (kdss). Will the cv’s actually bind at full droop or is adding a diff drop just the manufactures recommendation? What have you seen personally? From everything I’ve read the diff drop barely accomplishes much change in angle and drops your skids.

Thanks mike

TLDR: monotubes cool off much quicker and I'm pretty pleased with the IMS rears!

Finally had a chance today to do some mid-speed runs (30-40mph) over a heavily corrugated/mogul heavy trail. Much more corrugated than anything I've experienced in Death Valley for sure. After a half mile or so section, I took the surface temps of my shocks (twin tubes in front and monotubes in rear). Before getting to the temps, I gotta say I'm really happy I made the switch from 705 valving to the 701 valving (50701 shocks). The rear is SOOO much more controlled now on the rough trails. Yea I can feel more on road but the trade off was worth it for the off road control.

Anyways back to the shock temps.

Always heard that monotube shocks cool off quicker than twintubes. Made sense due to how they are constructed differently but never got to test it till now. Did a mogul heavy trail today and got my rear IMS monotubes up to 235f. Front twintubes were around 155f. Both temps were surface temps so actual fluid temps were likely higher.

After taking a short 6 - 8 min break, the twin tubes dropped to 140f while the IMS monotubes dropped to 175-180f. With these numbers in mind, I'll eventually switch the fronts to IMS when my current ones fail!

Hey man. Nice, upgrade time!!

So the longer travel front GS59-574 max out the CV's at full droop to the point of almost binding under the weight of the vehicle. That's why we recommend a diff drop kit. I was the first to run them in the UCA, and when you rotate the wheel at full droop without a diff drop kit, you can feel the resistance starting there. If the tire had a chance to pull the suspension down a bit further, it would be binding for sure. Adding the diff drop kit made enough difference to reduce that binding.

Whenever people say "this" or "that" about a diff drop kit, they need to ask about the overall travel of the struts. Regular Bilsteins, Dobinsons, OME, etc don't have the full droop that the *574 options do from Dobinsons, and don't need a diff drop.

But also, if you'll never get the wheels in the air (aka jumping or flying fast offroad), then you'll never get the CV's to that binding position most likely.

Nice, that's really good feedback Kevin!!

Fair enough. My current ride height up front at 2.5” is acceptable. C59-352 is my next consideration(120lb bumper + winch).

2.5”/2” lift adding an inch of rake with the 327’s I ordered for the rear. This a common setup?

Heaps of guys are running a similar rake setup, about 1.5" of rake when it's all said and done. Good for being able to load up the rear without getting less than level. I think more people are doing 2"/1.5", but it yields the same rake results.

2,000 mile/new tire update

I've seen minimal, if any settling or loss of lift. Still 100% happy with this setup. My current center of hub to fender measurements are:

Driver Front: 22.25"
Passenger Front: 22.50"
Driver Rear: 23.00"
Passenger Rear: 23.25"

The 265/70/17 BFGs were just a bit too small for this much lift and didn't look right. Stepped it up to a new set of General Grabber A/TX in 275/70/17 yesterday.

352's in black for the front just backordered.

2.5"/2" it is.

Exit Off-Road FTW! Get that discount while it lasts people its a good deal!

How long currently are orders with assembly taking?

At least 1 week delay if the parts are in stock. There are hundreds waiting for assembly right now

Thanks for the info, my wife keeps asking if her lift has shipped.

Just tell her it's shipping from Australia and it will take a little while, then she'll stop asking for a few weeks. LOL

Hmm thats odd...mine keeps asking when are we going to get rid of the runner

Okay... so I've bee researching again. Currently I am running OME 3" with 885s and 898s (IIRC) both of which don't have the lift they once did. Of course I've added 500ish pounds of junk to the truck over the last couple years. C4 rear bumper w/dual swings, C4 fuel tank skid, RCI aluminum skids, cargo leveling platform, molle panels, etc. Most of the weight is biased to the rear but the front has definitely lost some height as well.

If I were trying to get a 2"-3" lift with an IMS kit, should I start with 314 coils in front and 727 or 729 (I do have KDSS) springs in the rear? I haven't been able to find wire diameter and free length for the 314s yet.

A 302 is very similar in spec to my current set up, which rides okay but could stand to be higher. I'm guessing the 314 is longer than the 302 since they are advertised as the same spring rate. The 352 advertises similar lift at similar loads, but at a lot higher spring rate. So I'm guessing the ride is not as nice on the daily.

Not exactly sure where to land for rear springs. If I take in account my current set up and how much it dropped after adding the bumper, it would push me towards the 729 but, I also remember that it rode a lot better after adding the weight. So do I want to go with a lower rate longer spring...like a 727 or 329?

Grrrr I get in too deep looking at it. When considering load weight, should we consider the load per axle or overall?