I just posted a few weeks ago about Barnwell Mtn in E. TX on P-rated Nittos. I did air down on those to about 24lbs after some online researching.... but it wasn't for traction, it was so I didn't blow out on the hundreds of rocks we drove over. I realize I'm a noobie off-road guy, but I'm a lifelong car and truck guy who's not incredibly stupid.... and I will stand by what I said in my original post.... I don't advise it for rocky trail terrain, but dang if I wasn't impressed by how those (Nitto) tires performed. I don't even have any "tears" in the treads that I can recall. Now then, I will add that my butt was puckered for a large percentage of our time on the trails, mainly for my tires. I have a set of stock trail rims still in my garage and am currently looking for used LT tires to throw on them for trail weekends... but if I didn't still have those extra rims, I would probably keep chancing the P-rated tires. Again, not advising it, but since I'm 97% on pavement, it just makes more sense (for me).


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What car takes 265 70R 17 tires?

This is exactly how I have survived with the stock tires for so long...I usually air down to about 22psi on anything more then basic dry dirt roads/trails.

What's a blow out? Do you mean a flat? An unfixable flat? Sidewall tear?

I've had one flat on my P285/70/17's. I would not buy LT tires for my mixed use nor do I particularly want them. I would use them if I buy a second set of wheels/tires for offroad only. A P285/70/17 is rated for more load than an LT265/70/17. I prefer the softer more pliable casing for the 95% of my miles that are highway.

I came really close to getting P255/75 17 Goodyear Duratracs. Significantly lighter than even c-rated tires. Ended up instead with c-rated coopers, mainly due to being hesitant the cut resistance and that Duratracs already have a bad reputation for cuts.

That being said, only tire i've ever had a sidewall cut on was d-rated LT...

I'm not sure that a tire's load rating necessarily equates to sidewall strength, e.g. BFG TAKO2 c rated stock size is 6 ply, but has a load rating lower (112) than stock tire spec (113).


2016 SR5P 4WD Super White
Bilstein 5100 @ .85
Nokian Rotiiva AT 265 70 17
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I can add some timely advice here.

Week before last I went wheeling in southern CA with a group of 11 trucks.I had been second guessing my decision to go with p rated tires, so I checked out everyone's tires before we hit the trail. 8 LTs and 3 P's including mine. One of the P's slashed a 3 inch gash in a sidewall .5 miles into the first trail. I made it to the end of the day but realized after the fact that I picked up a slow leak... in the sidewall...tire ruined.

Flashback...in November I realized that LT265/70R17 and LT275/70R17 tires would not fit my 17x9 wheels but that P265/70R17 would. After reading endless posts I decided that most of the people dissing p-rated tires didn't have any real experience with them. I'd driven several dirt roads and a couple of more serious trails on the stock tires and survived so figured a set of p rated AT tires would be fine and would cost a lot less than getting new wheels and tires. 4 months later I am getting the new wheels and tires anyway, a costly mistake!

Most of my driving is on pavement but when I do get off road, the piece of mind of LT tires is worth the price. 275 BFG KO2s going on tomorrow at which point I will be really busy updating 50+ threads on whether they rub or not.

-slide

Plenty. All crossover "suv's" do. P is passenger rated and a lot of 1/2 ton trucks even come with them. Is that right? For some if not most all they work. Those that start to venture off-road or carry or tow weight...a proper LT tire is advised. Manufacturers use the cheapest and lightest tires to get the best fuel mileage for EPA mandates...not necessarily the tires you will abuse with weight or tearing up off-road.


People can run p rated tires on their trucks without issue. Nobody is going to die doing so. But if you load up your Runner with lot same of weight, I believe lawndart has one of the heaviest runners on here at 6800 pounds or so, that is what my megacab 3/4 ton 4x4 Cummins weighs! No way would I put p rated tires on that.

Point is....p rated is exactly what they are. For use on road, light, good fuel mileage and works for light off-roading (not really requiring airing down). This is the demographic for the SUV's, the 1/2 ton trucks, and other vehicles that never go off the pavement or carry weight.


Run what you brung is a motto I've heard often and my personal experience has lead me to some important things such a simple thing as good tires, working vehicle, SOME recovery gear, a comm device, common sense or open ears to learn.


Again, do what you want and if it works great! I run 16 ply 19.5's on my Ram since I carry a large overhead camper and tow a boat. 8200 lbs of scaled weight on just my rear axle dictated that.

Whoops. Shoulda mentioned I have E load rated. I didn't realize the C's and D's were LT tires

I was concerned about the Nitto TG on the TRDP when I got it...figured I'd slash sidewalls and have other issues. I'd planned on running them for a Baja trip and seeing how they did.

So far, I've taken a nail at a mining site in the Kofa Wildlife Refuge in Arizona, but the tires have done 3 Mexico trips, the entire Mojave Road and Death Valley...with no issues.

I'm actually kinda impressed!

Now...when these are done I'm certainly going with a stronger tire, but for now, so far so good!

-H-

I vote this the most ambiguous and misleading pole in t4r history. LOL

Have had my '15 Trail for just over 18 months. first mod was rims and tires. I was (still am) a newbie to offroading. Bought the Toyo ATIIs about a month after purchase.

Wife and I took to wheeling quickly.

Have taken these P rated tires all over Big Bear, Moab, Barker Mtn (Tahoe), Death Valley, Joshua Tree, local SoCal trails. Also tow a 3000# trailer regularly.

Shockingly not a single flat. I keep waiting to lose a tire (crazy statement?!?!?), but to my fortune, not yet.

Deflators set to 20psi, so guessing the tire flex is helping to minimize puncture threats??? Tire placement and luck are also a big part of it.

Next set will probably be Nitto Ridge Grapplers C rated for more piece of mind. Es would be too much (stiff, heavy) for my needs.

HOWEVER, amazed at the durability of these Ps.

The load range/ply rating branded on a tire's sidewall identifies how much load the tire is designed to carry at its industry specified pressure. Passenger tires feature named load ranges while light truck tires use load ranges that ascend in alphabetical order (letters further along in the alphabet identify stronger tires that can withstand higher inflation pressures and carry heavier loads). Before load ranges were adopted, ply ratings and/or the actual number of casing plies were used to identify the relative strength with higher numeric ratings or plies identifying tires featuring stronger, heavier duty constructions.
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.

Should start a poll for that.

True, but the side wall is the major concern (at least for me). The main tread can be plugged easy enough with well, plugs. Those are easy and honestly, not a worry for blow outs going down the road.

Side walls with heat build up and compromised plies...is something that tire shops won't touch even though I've plugged side walls in the past.

Your right, you have to look at the tires actual construction to see if a E rated tire is what your after. Plies count and not all E rated tires are created equal.