WAMPA Jr. Build - Page 4 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

JSparky · 04-19-2018, 08:17 PM

I got the under-rack table slide fitted today. The table is mounted up front, passenger side exit. I could not clear the antenna without stepping up to larger towers, which I did not want to do.

Note that I did have to cut one of the table tray's in order to clear the crown in the roof. How I did it retained two bolts per side, which I feel is adequately strong to support the table. I will be installing some thicker felt along the table trays to help clearance the table from the roof even more.

Overall it's tight but is exactly what I was looking for, so I'm happy.

Yelkceb · 05-03-2018, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSparky

Some of you may know that I'm running Dobinsons C59-701V rear coils. These are a super heavy weight capacity progressive coil which works well for what I'm doing, but it does tend to ride high when unloaded. Small price to pay for having a decent ride unloaded while not bottoming out on the trail. When running light I'm a full 2.5'' taller than my buddy's truck on OME mediums.

Anyways, I've had a slight rumble grumble when coasting and after inspecting everything noted the transfer case side u-joint on my rear driveshaft was not super happy, weeping quite a bit of grease. I've been down this road numerous times and went ahead and had a rear double cardan shaft made. 1310 Spicer non-greasable joints have held up well for me on two other vehicles so went with them, my driveline shop wouldn't recommend anything else either and I've had nothing but good experiences with them so I trust their call.

Quick trip around the block and things are smoothed out, waiting on CaliFab to get me some rear links so I can tweak my pinion angle. Not too many discussions on here regarding double cardan shafts for the taller trucks so thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else in a similar boat.

With a DC Shaft isn't the pinion supposed to be pointing at the output of the T-Case? I know stock wish SC it's supposed to be parallel.

JSparky · 05-03-2018, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yelkceb

With a DC Shaft isn't the pinion supposed to be pointing at the output of the T-Case? I know stock wish SC it's supposed to be parallel.

Correct, I installed adjustable links shortly after to align the pinion up. Good catch.

rochmpr · 05-03-2018, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSparky

Some of you may know that I'm running Dobinsons C59-701V rear coils. These are a super heavy weight capacity progressive coil which works well for what I'm doing, but it does tend to ride high when unloaded. Small price to pay for having a decent ride unloaded while not bottoming out on the trail. When running light I'm a full 2.5'' taller than my buddy's truck on OME mediums.

Anyways, I've had a slight rumble grumble when coasting and after inspecting everything noted the transfer case side u-joint on my rear driveshaft was not super happy, weeping quite a bit of grease. I've been down this road numerous times and went ahead and had a rear double cardan shaft made. 1310 Spicer non-greasable joints have held up well for me on two other vehicles so went with them, my driveline shop wouldn't recommend anything else either and I've had nothing but good experiences with them so I trust their call.

Quick trip around the block and things are smoothed out, waiting on CaliFab to get me some rear links so I can tweak my pinion angle. Not too many discussions on here regarding double cardan shafts for the taller trucks so thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else in a similar boat.

Don't know how I missed this. Hmmm, if you don't mind, what did that shaft run you (you can PM me). We are running similar set-ups and I was looking at needing to point the rear diff at the case to get better clearance on the upper links hitting the top of the gas tank.

Scharfschütze · 06-13-2018, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSparky

Some of you may know that I'm running Dobinsons C59-701V rear coils. These are a super heavy weight capacity progressive coil which works well for what I'm doing, but it does tend to ride high when unloaded. Small price to pay for having a decent ride unloaded while not bottoming out on the trail. When running light I'm a full 2.5'' taller than my buddy's truck on OME mediums.

Anyways, I've had a slight rumble grumble when coasting and after inspecting everything noted the transfer case side u-joint on my rear driveshaft was not super happy, weeping quite a bit of grease. I've been down this road numerous times and went ahead and had a rear double cardan shaft made. 1310 Spicer non-greasable joints have held up well for me on two other vehicles so went with them, my driveline shop wouldn't recommend anything else either and I've had nothing but good experiences with them so I trust their call.

Quick trip around the block and things are smoothed out, waiting on CaliFab to get me some rear links so I can tweak my pinion angle. Not too many discussions on here regarding double cardan shafts for the taller trucks so thought I'd throw this out there for anyone else in a similar boat.

Do you expect this is because of the C59-701v coil giving you "too much" lift or other reasons? I am still debating what to do for rear springs, im really sagging now that I got drawers, but I'd love to avoid getting new drive shafts if possible for that missing 1" i need. TY!

rochmpr · 06-13-2018, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scharfschütze

Do you expect this is because of the C59-701v coil giving you "too much" lift or other reasons? I am still debating what to do for rear springs, im really sagging now that I got drawers, but I'd love to avoid getting new drive shafts if possible for that missing 1" i need. TY!

You can still run the stock drive shaft. Both @JSparky and I are running those springs. I am still on the stock shaft with no issues. Although I am contemplating doing the same drive shaft in order in hopes of eliminating the upper lind from hitting the gas tank on full droop.

JSparky · 06-13-2018, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scharfschütze

Do you expect this is because of the C59-701v coil giving you "too much" lift or other reasons? I am still debating what to do for rear springs, im really sagging now that I got drawers, but I'd love to avoid getting new drive shafts if possible for that missing 1" i need. TY!

So, it’s probably important to be perfectly clear on the chain of events.

I was getting some minor vibes but more importantly oil leakage with the factory driveline and factory rear control arms. Technically I should have installed adjustable rear control arms first, to correct diff pinion.. that may have solved the issue.

Instead, to save myself a headache that I’ve had before on other vehicles, and after checking all the angles and the amount of travel I’ve got in back, I decided to just fix it all at once.. hence the double cardan. I really didn’t want to risk any transfer case issues and his solves everything.

If your vehicle weight calls for it, I say go for the coils plus a set of rear lower links to correct pinion, then go from there. Did I answer your question? Sorry it was a bit long winded.

Edit: yes I believe it was due to a combination of height and uncorrected diff pinion.

Scharfschütze · 06-14-2018, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rochmpr

You can still run the stock drive shaft. Both @JSparky and I are running those springs. I am still on the stock shaft with no issues. Although I am contemplating doing the same drive shaft in order in hopes of eliminating the upper lind from hitting the gas tank on full droop.

Awesome thanks! I saw your thread about modding the gas tank skid. I have the c4 fab one...wonder if its going to be an issue...probably as its huge. Love your truck man...shes a beaut.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSparky

So, it’s probably important to be perfectly clear on the chain of events.

I was getting some minor vibes but more importantly oil leakage with the factory driveline and factory rear control arms. Technically I should have installed adjustable rear control arms first, to correct diff pinion.. that may have solved the issue.

Instead, to save myself a headache that I’ve had before on other vehicles, and after checking all the angles and the amount of travel I’ve got in back, I decided to just fix it all at once.. hence the double cardan. I really didn’t want to risk any transfer case issues and his solves everything.

If your vehicle weight calls for it, I say go for the coils plus a set of rear lower links to correct pinion, then go from there. Did I answer your question? Sorry it was a bit long winded.

Edit: yes I believe it was due to a combination of height and uncorrected diff pinion.

Totally answered my questions and probably sold me on the coils, thank you! I've got a CBI bumper, hardshell RTT, drawers and a snomaster, its getting pretty saggy back there with the icon overland springs. I am also looking for an excuse to upgrade to long travel rear shocks. So I'll grab a link kit, the coils and a panhard bar and hopefully be ok. What did the driveshafts run you if you dont mind sharing?

JSparky · 08-16-2018, 10:06 PM

Changed some things around. Had a 4x4Labs front bumper installed, 30” LED bar, swapped wire rope for synthetic, and replaced the winch hook with a Flatlink.

My old Demello bumper is for sale, open to offers. Nothing wrong with it and comes with the metal filler plate, just wanted to take a different route.

JSparky · 08-16-2018, 10:18 PM

Had new carriers put on as well, these with fold out tabs. They put a cutting board on one and a commercial baking sheet on the other. Thinking I may add some hooks for tongs and a spatula.

rochmpr · 08-16-2018, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSparky

Had new carriers put on as well, these with fold out tabs. They put a cutting board on one and a commercial baking sheet on the other. Thinking I may add some hooks for tongs and a spatula.

Damn, you making me want to give more money to Luke. Like I said I long time ago, he should give out shirts that say I went broke at 4x4Labs