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Old 04-02-2019, 07:04 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD2808TR4 View Post
Worked like a charm. I was stressing out about it too haha. No longer have the rub. Sad that I took out the spacers but I'll get over it. lol

I have JBA UCA, 17x9 Venomrex rims. Now only get the front fender rub which is easily fixable. Thanx for the info. Love this forum
Where did you go for alignment? Lex Brodies in Kalihi only could get 3.8 caster
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:15 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillusion View Post
Where did you go for alignment? Lex Brodies in Kalihi only could get 3.8 caster
I had my local Toyota dealer do the alignment (lifetime alignment $199) and the install of the UCA. Just to clarify the attached alignment printout in my previous post shows "Before Measurements" and "Current Measurement" The "Before" was based on the new JBA after install not the stock UCA.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:25 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khope View Post
I had my local Toyota dealer do the alignment (lifetime alignment $199) and the install of the UCA. Just to clarify the attached alignment printout in my previous post shows "Before Measurements" and "Current Measurement" The "Before" was based on the new JBA after install not the stock UCA.
I have Icon UCA's.

Lex Brodies did my alignment. Before I go bug the shit out of them I wanted to see what my other options were.

I'm getting minor rubbing on the mount and want to avoid chopping if all possible.
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:14 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD2808TR4 View Post
Worked like a charm. I was stressing out about it too haha. No longer have the rub. Sad that I took out the spacers but I'll get over it. lol

I have JBA UCA, 17x9 Venomrex rims. Now only get the front fender rub which is easily fixable. Thanx for the info. Love this forum
Is yours the one on the left?
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:43 PM #35
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Will report back my findings...
I have icon coilovers and dk uca’s going on with Scs ray10 And wildpeak 285’s. I will report back with my rubbing issues or hopefully lack thereof. Fingers crossed!
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Old 04-07-2019, 06:45 PM #36
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Is yours the one on the left?
Yup.
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Old 04-07-2019, 06:53 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillusion View Post
Where did you go for alignment? Lex Brodies in Kalihi only could get 3.8 caster
I didn't need that much caster...2.9 and 3.3

Scottie's by pearl ridge, go early so there's not a long line. Cost about $120-130 for me. Rub on the front fenders but only in reverse. Doesn't even bother me enough to trim yet. Took it to Ka’ena Point, no problems whatsoever. Rides like a dream. Dobinson's definitely legit.
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:58 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_357 View Post
I haven’t proven this but my understanding is adding positive caster by adjusting the lower control arm moves the tire away from the body mount, adding caster with the upper control arm moves the tires closer to the body mount.
does anyone with knowledge have input on this theory?
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:41 PM #39
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285-70-17 wildpeaks, 2.5-1.5 lift, trail wheels, 1.25 spacers (to clear uca's), jba uca's (caster maxed to 4).

BMC was necessary. Maybe if I had gone with a different UCA that didn't require spacers I may or may not have cleared the BM. But, I didn't realize it would be an issue and now it's chopped. Would have gone 34 if I had known I was going to rub.

DO NOT let anyone say 285's wont rub. Just because it worked out for them does not mean it will for you.
Last edited by Mutant138; 09-25-2019 at 07:53 PM. Reason: tire name
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Old 09-26-2019, 12:07 AM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mashalatheballa View Post
does anyone with knowledge have input on this theory?
Here. Using a SPC UCA.

With the SPC arm set at the 'D' setting, that is +2* castor.

If you set it to 'G' that would move the UCA to the stock 0* and forward.
3rd gen guys with BIG tires seem like the 'G' to keep the tire out of the BM.

Orange is castor.
Green is the setting.

Front passenger side. 4th gen T4R.
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Mount Chop Mod Necessary?-spc-uca-d-g-setting-jpg  Mount Chop Mod Necessary?-spc-uca-castor-jpg  Mount Chop Mod Necessary?-spc-uca-d-castor-jpg  Mount Chop Mod Necessary?-spc-uca-g-castor-jpg 
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Old 09-26-2019, 09:58 AM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff View Post
Here. Using a SPC UCA.

With the SPC arm set at the 'D' setting, that is +2* castor.

If you set it to 'G' that would move the UCA to the stock 0* and forward.
3rd gen guys with BIG tires seem like the 'G' to keep the tire out of the BM.

Orange is castor.
Green is the setting.

Front passenger side. 4th gen T4R.
Keep in mind you guys are talking about trading driving characteristics (which can be vastly improved over stock) in order to avoid BMC.

4 degrees of caster and the thing tracks straight as an arrow with far better wheel return out of a corner.
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Old 09-26-2019, 12:31 PM #42
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Originally Posted by Mutant138 View Post
Keep in mind you guys are talking about trading driving characteristics (which can be vastly improved over stock) in order to avoid BMC.

4 degrees of caster and the thing tracks straight as an arrow with far better wheel return out of a corner.
Yup, i have mine all most to 5*,its like it is on rails. No more of that constant steering wheel input on the highway. Mine was a chore to drive on long trips...NO MORE!
Steering is slightly heavier and it seems to 'push' the front more in the dirt, are the only drawbacks i can see.

I was trying to show the relation the castor change at the top/UCA will actually move the tire into the BM...with more castor.

Adding castor in the cam adjusters/LCA moves the tire forward.

...and apparently i cant spell worth a damn...should be "caster"...lol almost re-misspelled.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:17 PM #43
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Originally Posted by Ron4RNevada View Post
Honestly guys -> 265s will go anywhere that 285s will go - - -

No need for lifts, no need for re-gearing, cv joints and boots will last forever, stock shocks will last forever, suspension alignment can actually be left stock, stock wheels actually look pretty nice. And the urban guys in Reno aren't looking to steal my truck........
265 what's?
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Old 11-24-2020, 10:13 AM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khope View Post
I just happen to get an alignment today after the JBA Standard UCAs were installed. I have about a 2.0-2.5" lift due to installing FJ TRD Pro suspension and a 1" spacer. They did an alignment when this was installed and said I was at 2.0 Caster and that I should probably consider UCAs. The vehicle drove fine so I just left it alone. Then about three weeks ago I put on SCS Stealth 6 custom wheels ( 17"x8.5" with -10mm offset) and KO2's 285/70/17. I had inner liner rub and front bumper rub at full lock. Easy enough fix. However after the wheel and tire install the 4R felt strange like too easy to turn and not planted. So I decided to put UCA's on after reading and re-reading comments on this board.

The vehicle drives great EXCEPT it now rubs the body mount. Very frustrating and I have no desire to do the chop. I'm going to call JBA tomorrow to see if they have any suggestions. In the meantime, all forum members are welcome to provide input
Khope, did you end up having to get a BMC or was a re alignment sufficient? I too am looking to get 7x8.5 wheels but I’m torn between 0 and -12 offset. I’d like very much not to do a bmc since the truck is BRAND NEW lol. I did buy SPC UCAs and a kings mid travel kit so that should at least give me a fighting chance lol.

Thoughts?
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Old 11-24-2020, 10:22 AM #45
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There’s only so much playing around you can do with the alignment. If you lift and install bigger tires and actually take it off road it is going to rub.

You will also make the situation worse by having to offset the wheels a bit to clear the upper control arms.

I see a lot of pictures on this site with trucks that look like they rub when they hit a speed bump but people are adamant that they don’t.

Because the truck does not have a dedicated platform, instead it shares it with several other vehicle designs, there’s not a lot of room upfront for lifting and bigger tires, that’s some thing the FJ cruiser community has known for years as well.
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