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Old 09-23-2017, 01:52 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indawire View Post
Yes, and never sneeze really is your friend so put it on before reinstalling. Just coat the threads evenly, no need to slather it on.
Never Seez, I had to look it up, you know we noobs are easily confused.



Pretty sure it was a joke, right? A good one too.



Great topic, I was telling a retired machinist friend about this yesterday.

Addendum:

While we are on the subject, how do the stock Toyota aluminum skid plates stack up to the aftermarket ones in terms of price, quality, weight, etc etc ?

Last edited by zzdocxx; 09-23-2017 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 09-23-2017, 06:03 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzdocxx View Post
Never Seez, I had to look it up, you know we noobs are easily confused.



Pretty sure it was a joke, right? A good one too.



Great topic, I was telling a retired machinist friend about this yesterday.

Addendum:

While we are on the subject, how do the stock Toyota aluminum skid plates stack up to the aftermarket ones in terms of price, quality, weight, etc etc ?
I feel they are comparable. The Toyota TRD aluminum skid is 1/4" aluminum and pretty stout. Same thickness as my RCI skids, just a slightly different grade of aluminum. If I did not have the TRD skid and my plan was to go full aluminum skid plates I would just go RCI or Hefty Fab front to back as the front skid in both is larger and a one piece unit. If you have a TRD skid already, the RCI skids fit with a transition skid plate to create the same effect as the front RCI skid, but you miss out on the service openings for oil changes. Also if you get the transition skid you may need an additional 1/4 rubber spacer as it does sit pretty close to the front differential and it will give you some breathing room.

Here are some pics to what I'm talking about in my MFD thread (post 81).
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Old 09-25-2017, 05:00 PM #33
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Thanks for that bit of information.

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Old 10-03-2017, 04:33 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphabeast View Post
For those who are thinking of installing the TRD skid, I am almost certain you can reuse the rear bolts from the existing skid. I believe this is what I did and I have had no issues with stuck bolts.
YES! That's what i did. I was sitting there looking at both bolts, and I'm like "nah" I'm using the old bolts. No problems since.
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Old 02-25-2018, 01:06 AM #35
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I did my install tonight. Ordered my parts off Amazon, exactly what the OP got. Put oil on the tap thread before the starting the fronts. The back two bolts I put oil on the tap then after starting I came in from the top and poured some oil in. One pass took care of all the hunk and The second pass both came out clean. I used the supplied longer rear bolts. The hardest part I found was holding up and threading the front bolts.

On a side note, I was really annoyed that Ive only had one oil change at dealer cause its free and the had already stripped one bolt holding the original plate. Wasnt even able to go in but halfway. Absolutely f**king pathetic. Good thing I didnt need it anymore.
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Old 02-25-2018, 02:39 PM #36
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For whatever it's worth, I just did this on my stock 2011 SR5 and the skid plate bolts are M8x1.25x20mm. I have been changing my own oil since new, and always hated the way the threads on the stock bolts got flattened. I have always been able to get them installed and torqued, but there is no doubt that this is a weak spot.

Finally ran a chase tap through body mounted nuts, and replaced the fasteners with Grade 8.8 M8x1.25x20mm stainless bolts. Just thought I would post this for anyone with the older? bolt/nut sizes. I was surprised to find them as M8 after reading this thread.

Thanks,

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Old 02-25-2018, 09:27 PM #37
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Getting ready to do this, does anyone know the part number for the OEM bolts?
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Old 02-26-2018, 06:11 PM #38
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Installed TRD skid plate over the weekend and had issue removing one of the front bolts (stripped the bolt head). I was thinking the shop who installed my diff drop over torqued the bolt. Luckily, this topic is again on the top page as it seem to be a common issue, I almost wrote the shop a negative review on Yelp.

Anyway, I was able to remove the bolt using an extractor and install the skid plate. I will be running a the tap before my first oil change.

Thanks for this great info!
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Old 02-28-2018, 12:04 PM #39
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Ordering mine this week! I dont have the ability to get under my runner to tap holes, so it looks like i'll be re-using the old bolts.
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Old 03-02-2018, 10:38 AM #40
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Just checking in on this topic with you....still have no problems with re-using the old bolts? I am planning on ordering a TRD skid today and all the "tap this! do that! dont use this! this was stripped! oh sh*t!" talk was freaking me out.
I am not getting under my ride and tapping out factory threads unless it is absolutely necessary.
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:04 PM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerowkul98 View Post
Just checking in on this topic with you....still have no problems with re-using the old bolts? I am planning on ordering a TRD skid today and all the "tap this! do that! dont use this! this was stripped! oh sh*t!" talk was freaking me out.
I am not getting under my ride and tapping out factory threads unless it is absolutely necessary.
the pre-installation wisdom is to chase the existing threads in order to clean them out, not to tap new ones.
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:31 PM #42
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So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If I’m reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out that’s further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?

My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.

The skid comes off this weekend already and I’m considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if it’s actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
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Old 03-02-2018, 01:05 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CollinJ View Post
So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If Im reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out thats further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?

My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.

The skid comes off this weekend already and Im considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if its actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
Aaaah ok, i gotcha. I guess when i saw the tap set and the multitude of people throwing out measurements, threads, etc etc, i get weary of doing that. Had a mishap on my 2003 Runner's spare tire winch device that froze up, had to cut it out and tap new holes for attaching a new one. Pain in the A$$!

Thanks for the clarification.

With that being said, are people here still using the original bolts from the standard skid plates to keep the TRD skid attached?
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Old 03-02-2018, 05:29 PM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CollinJ View Post
So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If I’m reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out that’s further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?

My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.

The skid comes off this weekend already and I’m considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if it’s actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerowkul98 View Post
Aaaah ok, i gotcha. I guess when i saw the tap set and the multitude of people throwing out measurements, threads, etc etc, i get weary of doing that. Had a mishap on my 2003 Runner's spare tire winch device that froze up, had to cut it out and tap new holes for attaching a new one. Pain in the A$$!

Thanks for the clarification.

With that being said, are people here still using the original bolts from the standard skid plates to keep the TRD skid attached?
Yes, it is to clear out the gunk, but I used a chaser aka plug tap to not only clear it out but also to extend the threading slightly further up to accept the longer bolts that came with the TRD more easily. Mine started out fine, just a little snug, but it got exponentially worse over time, that’s why I ended up doing this and posting about it as there are many reports of bolt issues.

Other members have reused the original bolts and I have not read of any reported issues, but as @Saker said on the first page of this thread, they are likely longer for a reason. I personally didn’t want to chance it.
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:30 PM #45
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Ok. I installed my skid today. This may be a dumb question but was I supposed to leave off the filler plate?

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