09-23-2017, 01:52 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: San Diego
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indawire
Yes, and never sneeze really is your friend so put it on before reinstalling. Just coat the threads evenly, no need to slather it on.
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Never Seez, I had to look it up, you know we noobs are easily confused.
Pretty sure it was a joke, right? A good one too.
Great topic, I was telling a retired machinist friend about this yesterday.
Addendum:
While we are on the subject, how do the stock Toyota aluminum skid plates stack up to the aftermarket ones in terms of price, quality, weight, etc etc ?
Last edited by zzdocxx; 09-23-2017 at 01:59 PM.
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09-23-2017, 06:03 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,890
Real Name: Chris
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Florida
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Real Name: Chris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzdocxx
Never Seez, I had to look it up, you know we noobs are easily confused.
Pretty sure it was a joke, right? A good one too.
Great topic, I was telling a retired machinist friend about this yesterday.
Addendum:
While we are on the subject, how do the stock Toyota aluminum skid plates stack up to the aftermarket ones in terms of price, quality, weight, etc etc ?
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I feel they are comparable. The Toyota TRD aluminum skid is 1/4" aluminum and pretty stout. Same thickness as my RCI skids, just a slightly different grade of aluminum. If I did not have the TRD skid and my plan was to go full aluminum skid plates I would just go RCI or Hefty Fab front to back as the front skid in both is larger and a one piece unit. If you have a TRD skid already, the RCI skids fit with a transition skid plate to create the same effect as the front RCI skid, but you miss out on the service openings for oil changes. Also if you get the transition skid you may need an additional 1/4 rubber spacer as it does sit pretty close to the front differential and it will give you some breathing room.
Here are some pics to what I'm talking about in my MFD thread (post 81).
Cymon's Weekend Warrior and MFD Thread
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Cymon's Weekend Warrior/MFD Thread
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09-25-2017, 05:00 PM
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#33
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Thanks for that bit of information.
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10-03-2017, 04:33 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphabeast
For those who are thinking of installing the TRD skid, I am almost certain you can reuse the rear bolts from the existing skid. I believe this is what I did and I have had no issues with stuck bolts.
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YES! That's what i did. I was sitting there looking at both bolts, and I'm like "nah" I'm using the old bolts. No problems since.
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02-25-2018, 01:06 AM
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#35
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ponchatoula, LA
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I did my install tonight. Ordered my parts off Amazon, exactly what the OP got. Put oil on the tap thread before the starting the fronts. The back two bolts I put oil on the tap then after starting I came in from the top and poured some oil in. One pass took care of all the hunk and The second pass both came out clean. I used the supplied longer rear bolts. The hardest part I found was holding up and threading the front bolts.
On a side note, I was really annoyed that I’ve only had one oil change at dealer cause it’s free and the had already stripped one bolt holding the original plate. Wasn’t even able to go in but halfway. Absolutely f**king pathetic. Good thing I didn’t need it anymore.
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02-25-2018, 02:39 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Overland Park, KS
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For whatever it's worth, I just did this on my stock 2011 SR5 and the skid plate bolts are M8x1.25x20mm. I have been changing my own oil since new, and always hated the way the threads on the stock bolts got flattened. I have always been able to get them installed and torqued, but there is no doubt that this is a weak spot.
Finally ran a chase tap through body mounted nuts, and replaced the fasteners with Grade 8.8 M8x1.25x20mm stainless bolts. Just thought I would post this for anyone with the older? bolt/nut sizes. I was surprised to find them as M8 after reading this thread.
Thanks,
JA
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02-25-2018, 09:27 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Port, Florida
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Getting ready to do this, does anyone know the part number for the OEM bolts?
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02-26-2018, 06:11 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: California
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Installed TRD skid plate over the weekend and had issue removing one of the front bolts (stripped the bolt head). I was thinking the shop who installed my diff drop over torqued the bolt. Luckily, this topic is again on the top page as it seem to be a common issue, I almost wrote the shop a negative review on Yelp.
Anyway, I was able to remove the bolt using an extractor and install the skid plate. I will be running a the tap before my first oil change.
Thanks for this great info!
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02-28-2018, 12:04 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Boston MA
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Ordering mine this week! I dont have the ability to get under my runner to tap holes, so it looks like i'll be re-using the old bolts.
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2008 Sport Edition V8 (sold)
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03-02-2018, 10:38 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Just checking in on this topic with you....still have no problems with re-using the old bolts? I am planning on ordering a TRD skid today and all the "tap this! do that! dont use this! this was stripped! oh sh*t!" talk was freaking me out.
I am not getting under my ride and tapping out factory threads unless it is absolutely necessary.
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03-02-2018, 12:04 PM
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#41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerowkul98
Just checking in on this topic with you....still have no problems with re-using the old bolts? I am planning on ordering a TRD skid today and all the "tap this! do that! dont use this! this was stripped! oh sh*t!" talk was freaking me out.
I am not getting under my ride and tapping out factory threads unless it is absolutely necessary.
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the pre-installation wisdom is to chase the existing threads in order to clean them out, not to tap new ones.
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06 SE, galactic gray V8: sold // 93 SR5, lots of rust, salt, & mods: R.I.P. // 71 FJ40, never should've let it go
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03-02-2018, 12:31 PM
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#42
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If I’m reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out that’s further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?
My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.
The skid comes off this weekend already and I’m considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if it’s actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
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03-02-2018, 01:05 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Boston MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CollinJ
So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If I’m reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out that’s further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?
My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.
The skid comes off this weekend already and I’m considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if it’s actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
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Aaaah ok, i gotcha. I guess when i saw the tap set and the multitude of people throwing out measurements, threads, etc etc, i get weary of doing that. Had a mishap on my 2003 Runner's spare tire winch device that froze up, had to cut it out and tap new holes for attaching a new one. Pain in the A$$!
Thanks for the clarification.
With that being said, are people here still using the original bolts from the standard skid plates to keep the TRD skid attached?
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2016 Trail - Classic Silver Metallic - 17" Black TRD Wheels w/ BFG All-Terrains
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03-02-2018, 05:29 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,890
Real Name: Chris
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Florida
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Real Name: Chris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CollinJ
So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If I’m reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out that’s further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?
My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.
The skid comes off this weekend already and I’m considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if it’s actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerowkul98
Aaaah ok, i gotcha. I guess when i saw the tap set and the multitude of people throwing out measurements, threads, etc etc, i get weary of doing that. Had a mishap on my 2003 Runner's spare tire winch device that froze up, had to cut it out and tap new holes for attaching a new one. Pain in the A$$!
Thanks for the clarification.
With that being said, are people here still using the original bolts from the standard skid plates to keep the TRD skid attached?
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Yes, it is to clear out the gunk, but I used a chaser aka plug tap to not only clear it out but also to extend the threading slightly further up to accept the longer bolts that came with the TRD more easily. Mine started out fine, just a little snug, but it got exponentially worse over time, that’s why I ended up doing this and posting about it as there are many reports of bolt issues.
Other members have reused the original bolts and I have not read of any reported issues, but as
@ Saker
said on the first page of this thread, they are likely longer for a reason. I personally didn’t want to chance it.
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2015 SR5 Premium 4wd Magnetic Grey w/3rd row: Frontrunner Slimline II 3/4 Rack - Yakima Skybox 16 - Weathertech - 22" Behind Grill Light Bar - TRD Skid w/Full Aluminum RCI Skids - RCI Sliders - Falken AT3 265 SL - Lamin-X - Taxa Cricket
"If I Can Do it You Can" Light Bar Install
ARB Breather Mod
Cymon's Weekend Warrior/MFD Thread
Last edited by Cymon; 03-02-2018 at 05:32 PM.
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03-02-2018, 07:30 PM
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#45
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Canfield, Ohio
Posts: 109
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Ok. I installed my skid today. This may be a dumb question but was I supposed to leave off the filler plate?
Mike
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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