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Old 03-02-2018, 07:58 PM #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MayorBloom View Post
Ok. I installed my skid today. This may be a dumb question but was I supposed to leave off the filler plate?

Mike


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Are you talking the plastic piece that connected to the bumper? If so I believe you donít put that back on, I didnít when I installed my skid.
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Old 03-02-2018, 10:03 PM #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MayorBloom View Post
Ok. I installed my skid today. This may be a dumb question but was I supposed to leave off the filler plate?

Mike


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Yes, but I do know that some members have trimmed it to fit.. @Saker
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Old 03-03-2018, 12:23 AM #48
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thanks guys....I may trim it
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Old 03-10-2018, 02:15 PM #49
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Talk about a nerveracking 10-15 minutes! Just re-threaded mine with great success. The gunk cleaned out was crazy! Just take your time and spray a ton of WD-40 down from the top and it goes really smooth. Anti-Sieze back on the bolts when I re-install.

Thanks again for the write up! I know this has saved me some headaches down the road!
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:42 PM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistle View Post
For whatever it's worth, I just did this on my stock 2011 SR5 and the skid plate bolts are M8x1.25x20mm. I have been changing my own oil since new, and always hated the way the threads on the stock bolts got flattened. I have always been able to get them installed and torqued, but there is no doubt that this is a weak spot.

Finally ran a chase tap through body mounted nuts, and replaced the fasteners with Grade 8.8 M8x1.25x20mm stainless bolts. Just thought I would post this for anyone with the older? bolt/nut sizes. I was surprised to find them as M8 after reading this thread.

Thanks,

JA
Just tried to do this on my 2010 SR5, and after looking at it, I'm not totally sure how the plate fits. I'm a total noob at this, but how do I even get the OEM plate off? Can't even see the bolt under there anywhere.

The TRD skid plate will fit the 2010, yes?
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:57 PM #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwood View Post
Just tried to do this on my 2010 SR5, and after looking at it, I'm not totally sure how the plate fits. I'm a total noob at this, but how do I even get the OEM plate off? Can't even see the bolt under there anywhere.

The TRD skid plate will fit the 2010, yes?
Mine should finally arrive tomorrow due to storms and such. Right now I dont have a front skid

If you still have your air dam you'll need to remove that.

Then remove front plastic filler piece below bumper. It's held by a few bolts and a couple large plastic plugs.

There are 4 bolts holding the skid plate, 2 in front and 2 in back. the bolts are in recessed holes.

After the bolts are removed the stock skid is held in place by 2 hooks/hangers in the front. Just pull it out from there.

The TRD skid should bolt up nicely using the same 4 bolt locations as the stock skid.

Make sure you tap the holes using the Saker-Cymon method and apply a good amount of anti seize

EDIT: I didn't tap the holes yet as I was waiting on the skid. I just tried to test fit the 10mm tap and I can confirm you will either need to drill out and tap to 10mm or use the 8mm x 1.25 tap and buy new bolts like @Kistle stated
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Last edited by tristero; 03-19-2018 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:08 AM #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tristero View Post
Mine should finally arrive tomorrow due to storms and such. Right now I dont have a front skid

If you still have your air dam you'll need to remove that.

Then remove front plastic filler piece below bumper. It's held by a few bolts and a couple large plastic plugs.
Took of the air dam and plastic below bumper tonight, but I think I went overboard. From the looks of it, the two small plastic side pieces should still be on.



And for the center piece, only the part that hangs down should be removed, otherwise it's totally open under there. Is my thinking correct?


Last edited by pwood; 03-21-2018 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:08 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwood View Post
Took of the air dam and plastic below bumper tonight, but I think I went overboard. From the looks of it, the two small plastic side pieces should still be on.



And for the center piece, only the part that hangs down should be removed, otherwise it's totally open under there. Is my thinking correct?

Yeah it looks like it. But I don't remember the 2 plastic side pieces... I removed them a long time ago though

Antman posted up some pics here SR-5 "Body Kit"

Skid finally came in yesterday but it's raining all this week so I won't have a chance to look at the rest until Friday afternoon or Saturday.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:25 AM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistle View Post
For whatever it's worth, I just did this on my stock 2011 SR5 and the skid plate bolts are M8x1.25x20mm. I have been changing my own oil since new, and always hated the way the threads on the stock bolts got flattened. I have always been able to get them installed and torqued, but there is no doubt that this is a weak spot.

Finally ran a chase tap through body mounted nuts, and replaced the fasteners with Grade 8.8 M8x1.25x20mm stainless bolts. Just thought I would post this for anyone with the older? bolt/nut sizes. I was surprised to find them as M8 after reading this thread.

Thanks,

JA
Finally got my factory plate off tonight. My 4runner is a 2010 and came from Chicago, and the threads in the front two are fairly corroded so I definitely need to tap those.

The rear are fine, but I have a question around bolt length. @Kistle mentioned 20mm, that looks like what the originals are maybe? The ones that came on the skid are around 45mm, but thinking maybe I can go 30mm and just use the tap to clean out the gunk, then put anti-seize lubricant on the bolts and be okay, right?

Edit: On second thought, the fat spacers are for the front two. For the rear two, just use some stainless screws that are the same length as the current, maybe 5mm longer since the skid is a bit thicker than factory. Make sure it's cleaned out with the tap, and then put some anti seize lube on them, and call it good. Are there issues with that approach? The two front would be different lengths than the two rear, but just because of those spacers.

New 10m skid bolt, 8mm I purchased from HD, and the old factory ones.


Last edited by pwood; 03-22-2018 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:28 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CollinJ View Post
So I am new here and new to the 4Runner. I just got mine last week and just put my skid on last week. If Iím reading correctly the main reason for doing this is cleaning the gunk out thatís further up in the threads rather than actually cutting new threads?

My bolts went in and got snug but not crazy then I used my torque wrench to 22lb/ft as instructed.

The skid comes off this weekend already and Iím considering doing this and just wanted to confirm if itís actually cutting new threads? I can easily clean the threads with a wire brush too?
I would assume that when the weld-nuts were installed in the body shop in Tahara, there was insufficient electrical insulation on the locating pin. This would cause an arcing which would damage the thread. This is all speculation, but even with a clean thread I was still damaging the bolts.

Since I ran the threads with a tap and switched to some higher quality bolts, I have no issues (even without anti-seize.)
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Old 03-22-2018, 04:23 PM #56
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Yep, I can confirm as I just replaced a couple of bolts, they are M8 1.25 on my 2017
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:07 AM #57
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Uhhh....so *that* did not go as expected. Finally got it installed on my 2010 SR5. The holes that the stock plate used weren't the same as those that the TRD plate uses.

I ended up using the M10 bolts that came with the plate. Tapped out the rear holes (which weren't even being used at all before). Tapped the front as well after pulling out two much shorter bolts that seem to hold *something* together, not sure what though. The longer bolts, especially for the front, are totally necessary.

Anyway, glad to finally have it done! That took infinitely longer than I expected, now for the leveling kit. Night time photo with a cell. (sorry)


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Old 03-23-2018, 05:25 AM #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdiset View Post
Yep, I can confirm as I just replaced a couple of bolts, they are M8 1.25 on my 2017
I wonder why there is variance from year to year on this? I tapped my rear ones a few weeks ago with a M10 and it threaded right in no problem, the bolts then went in like butter.

What model do you have?
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Old 03-24-2018, 06:57 PM #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwood View Post
Uhhh....so *that* did not go as expected. Finally got it installed on my 2010 SR5. The holes that the stock plate used weren't the same as those that the TRD plate uses.

I ended up using the M10 bolts that came with the plate. Tapped out the rear holes (which weren't even being used at all before). Tapped the front as well after pulling out two much shorter bolts that seem to hold *something* together, not sure what though. The longer bolts, especially for the front, are totally necessary.
I just gave up on mine. Does not look like it will work without a lot of extra effort and welding in new nuts with the radiator support spacers I have on.

Glad you got yours to fit, but I'm curious what rear holes you used to tap for M10.

Anyway, anyone want a new TRD skid?
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:45 PM #60
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Just installed mine on a 2016 SR5. Just to clarify the TRD skid does not mount in the same holes as the oem skid on a SR5. The oem is held on with four small 12 mm bolts. Once you remove it you will see four silver 14 mm bolts on the black support rail where the new TRD skid bolts will go. You will need to use the mentioned tools to tap the threads for the new trd skid bolts which are longer.
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