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Old 08-17-2018, 02:24 AM #61
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Just installed my TRD skid plate tonight. Very straightforward with the added step of running the tap through the holes. With only 3,500 miles on my 4runner I didnít think it would be an issue, but the design just allows gunk to get in there, especially the rear. I think the longer bolts, which pretty much fill up the hole to the top when tightened, will help keep gunk out. Maybe.

The good news for me is that it is exactly the same size and thread pattern on the skid plate bolts that it is for the rear seat bottom bolts. Since I had got one of those cross threaded the first time I put them back in, I had just purchased a tap in this size. Funny how little things like having the right tool on hand (by happenstance) can make a project go so much easier. And now you know that if you need to retap the threads on your seat bottom, itís the same size as the one needed for your TRD skid plate.

Thanks OP for posting this information and to the others who have contributed. It was very helpful.
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If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!-trd-skid-jpg 
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Last edited by 90Duck; 08-17-2018 at 11:31 AM. Reason: add picture
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Old 08-17-2018, 08:17 AM #62
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Sorry in advance for jacking the thread, but I have a question for Cymon....How do you like your AT3 275 C load tires?
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:43 AM #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CG4RUNNER909 View Post
Just installed mine on a 2016 SR5. Just to clarify the TRD skid does not mount in the same holes as the oem skid on a SR5. The oem is held on with four small 12 mm bolts. Once you remove it you will see four silver 14 mm bolts on the black support rail where the new TRD skid bolts will go. You will need to use the mentioned tools to tap the threads for the new trd skid bolts which are longer.
This needs some clarity for future readers. 12mm and 14mm as you reference are the size of the bolt heads - or the wrench size. Generally hardware sizing is identified by the size of the threaded shaft. So typically the 12mm head size on Toyota parts means 8mm bolt size. 14mm means 10mm bolt size.

Just don't want someone to buy 14mm replacement bolts or a tap and be surprised when they're not what they think they are.

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Old 08-17-2018, 04:20 PM #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwscott79 View Post
Sorry in advance for jacking the thread, but I have a question for Cymon....How do you like your AT3 275 C load tires?
Love them for my use. 25k on them as of now and I would put them on again without hesitation. The tread is only slightly worn after 25k (maybe 1-2 mm). I have a more in depth review here post #208.

Cymon's Weekend Warrior and MFD Thread

There are also more pics of them throughout my thread including the day I put them on, post #122.

Cymon's Weekend Warrior and MFD Thread

If you have any other questions feel free to pm me or post a reply on my thread.

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Old 04-09-2019, 12:00 PM #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Duck View Post
Just installed my TRD skid plate tonight. Very straightforward with the added step of running the tap through the holes. With only 3,500 miles on my 4runner I didnít think it would be an issue, but the design just allows gunk to get in there, especially the rear. I think the longer bolts, which pretty much fill up the hole to the top when tightened, will help keep gunk out. Maybe.

The good news for me is that it is exactly the same size and thread pattern on the skid plate bolts that it is for the rear seat bottom bolts. Since I had got one of those cross threaded the first time I put them back in, I had just purchased a tap in this size. Funny how little things like having the right tool on hand (by happenstance) can make a project go so much easier. And now you know that if you need to retap the threads on your seat bottom, itís the same size as the one needed for your TRD skid plate.

Thanks OP for posting this information and to the others who have contributed. It was very helpful.
I have a 17 sr5, just purchased the 2019 trd pro skid plate with the TRD lettering in red. The bolts seem to fit fine on the skid plate. Did you re thread the skid plate holes and mounting holes on the 4runner?
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Old 04-09-2019, 12:34 PM #66
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What are the torque specs for the TRD skid plate bolts once you put the screws back on?
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Old 04-09-2019, 02:41 PM #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osugsxr View Post
I have a 17 sr5, just purchased the 2019 trd pro skid plate with the TRD lettering in red. The bolts seem to fit fine on the skid plate. Did you re thread the skid plate holes and mounting holes on the 4runner?
The holes on the new skid plate are fine, it's the holes through the frame that get fouled up with gunk from the top down from driving. If you don't clean it first, it can be very difficult to get the new longer bolts that come with the TRD skid plate all the way in. Some on here have reverted to just using the shorter bolts that were already on their 4Runners holding the steel plate. A quick run through the bolt holes in the frame with the tap will allow you to hand tighten them right up until torquing them down with a socket. I don't recall the torque specs on it.

A tap and T handle set me back all of $12 at the local Ace Hardware.
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Old 04-09-2019, 03:36 PM #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genesyn View Post
What are the torque specs for the TRD skid plate bolts once you put the screws back on?
Either the German method of "good-n-tite" or 22lbs/ft...either or.
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Old 04-10-2019, 11:25 AM #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Duck View Post
The holes on the new skid plate are fine, it's the holes through the frame that get fouled up with gunk from the top down from driving. If you don't clean it first, it can be very difficult to get the new longer bolts that come with the TRD skid plate all the way in. Some on here have reverted to just using the shorter bolts that were already on their 4Runners holding the steel plate. A quick run through the bolt holes in the frame with the tap will allow you to hand tighten them right up until torquing them down with a socket. I don't recall the torque specs on it.

A tap and T handle set me back all of $12 at the local Ace Hardware.
thanks, ill try to stop by an ace hardware to see what they have. Lowes had a 10mm x 1.5. I think harbor freight may have a set at $16 with a 10mm x1.25 in it. Yes it harbor freight.....its a one time use. I taped off the lettering and used rustoleum satin black on the plate. Should match fairly well with the roof rack that was painted black as well
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Old 04-11-2019, 10:50 AM #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Duck View Post
The holes on the new skid plate are fine, it's the holes through the frame that get fouled up with gunk from the top down from driving. If you don't clean it first, it can be very difficult to get the new longer bolts that come with the TRD skid plate all the way in. Some on here have reverted to just using the shorter bolts that were already on their 4Runners holding the steel plate. A quick run through the bolt holes in the frame with the tap will allow you to hand tighten them right up until torquing them down with a socket. I don't recall the torque specs on it.

A tap and T handle set me back all of $12 at the local Ace Hardware.
Thanks for the advice, install took about 30 minutes taking my time. I did rethread the holes with a 10mm x 1.25 tap $5 from advance auto parts. After I did this the bolts went in without issue plus I used anti seize. I tried tightening them first without rethreading but didnt go in as far.
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If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!-img_4930-jpg  If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!-img_4931-jpg 
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:00 PM #71
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Did anyone here have radiator support bracket spacers they installed with their lift? Unless I'm doing something wrong, those are preventing my front skid plate bolts from being able to reach the threads at all.
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:13 PM #72
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Quote:
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Did anyone here have radiator support bracket spacers they installed with their lift? Unless I'm doing something wrong, those are preventing my front skid plate bolts from being able to reach the threads at all.
Probably doing something wrong ,
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Old 04-19-2019, 10:02 PM #73
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Ended up removing the radiator bracket spacers. Clearance is tight between the sway bar and bracket, but the skid plate would not have gone on otherwise.
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Old 04-20-2019, 10:53 AM #74
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Good thread. $7 for the tap at ACE. had the Thandle already. Lots of dirt and metal came out of the holes. Bolts went right in. Im really digging the black paint jobs. Might pull it back down and do that.
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:42 PM #75
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Thanks @Cymon and @Saker I was definitely leaning toward being lazy and not doing this before installation, but I'm glad I did. As you can see in the photo, there was some serious grit and grime in there.

Just so there are some fresh links, here are the handle and bit I ordered from Amazon. They worked like a charm:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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