I just installed the 2019 TRD Skid Plate on my 2010 T4R TE. (no KDSS) This is the aluminum one with red plastic TRD letters. (PTR60-89190) Though the Toyota part claims only 2014+, I had no clearance issues what so ever on my 2010 T4R TE. Paid like $282 for the plate and ordered it online shipping from Toyota in LA.

Now what I did have to contend with was my Toytec Ultimate 3 inch lift - it like others causes the front sway bar to contact the driver's side radiator cross member. (really it's a front suspension cross member) So this causes that cross member to slightly not contact the front perpendicular frame member, maybe by 1/4 inch. (so I placed SS washers there) If you look at the front and passenger radiator cross members, they aren't symmetrical around vehicle center and the passenger one is skewed farther from the middle and easily clears the sway bar. Kind of odd Toyota designed them this asymetrical way.

At anyrate, I did have to make the radiator cross member access holes slightly larger to give better tolerances for the later bolt alignments. You can easily remove the last (3rd bolt) to do so and I just took a drill pit to enlarge the access hole. But this was due to my lift kit and what it does with the driver side radiator cross member.

After this I took a M10 1.25mm tap (Ace Hardware) along with tap t-wrench handle I manually tapped out each of the 4 bolt holes. I used WD40 as a lubricant/cleaning agent and wow did I pull some gunk out! Best to turn 1-2 revolutions, back out 1/2 revolution to cause the gunk to fall out into the tap flutes.

About bolts: as I have a 3 inch lift, and the differential has spacers now, I used slightly longer M10 x 1.25 bolts. I got all of them at Home Depot, along with M10 washers/lock nuts. I think they're all Zinc coated, was hoping to find SS ones but no luck. Oddly Lowes and Ace Hardware do not seem to carry M10 1.25. M10 1.5 is the most common I think.

So in front I used 60mm long M10 x 1.25 bolts, using the existing aluminum spacer, ditching the retaining nut though. In the back I used 60mm long M10 x 1.25 bolts, and I also added a 3/4" long x 3/8" diameter SS bushing from Ace Hardware. These allowed the TRD skid plate to adequately clear the lowered differential which has spacers now due to the lift kit. And I'd say it gives a nice 1/4" of clearance skid plate to differential. Just thought I'd play it safe and not have the TRD skid plate contact the lowered differential. (maybe it isn't important though) I should say I could not get the 40mm front bolts that came with the skid plate to get good initial threading, and that once I got the 60mm long bolts for the front, I then was able to get good initial threading. It was a big difference in my case. I did not torque them down super hard in fear of the weak welds on the inner cross member nuts. I did apply a skosh of anti-sieze and some WD40 to each bolt. The whole TRD skid plate is very solid.

In the the future I'll likely paint it black to match my black 2010 T4R TE.

So in the books is another fun and crazy SUV project!

Installed skid plate today- The back bolts would not go in all the way. almost thought of going with the Stock bolts. Decided to buy all the stuff to do the job right. Got the holes cleaned out and everything worked. Thanks for the info.

Just to be clear, starter taps and plug taps are not the same.
Starter taps are more commonly called taper taps, then mid taps or plug taps and lastly bottom taps.
Decades ago, one would normally buy a certain size in a set of three, one of each style to build a decent collection. Today starter taps are rarely stocked or even sold, as plug taps are the favorite.
Additionally, using a product such as copper anti seize is always beneficial or if your pockets are deeper TefGel.

2020 TRDP here. Need to add this to the list of things I'm making to look at under this stay at home nonsense. Pretty unbelievable that this is even an issue, but at least someone noticed it and has a way to deal with it. Thanks for the post, OP. Great old threads never die

i didn't have any issues using the bolts hat came with the Pro skids. took out radiator support brackets and the Pro skid fit perfectly with the supplied bolts. took specified Torque too. this is my 2020 TRD OffRoad with KDSS. The SKID itself is from 2019-2020 model with plastic letters.

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Hi, I joined t4r.org to ask a question over 2 years ago. Every time I try to post the question it says I have not replied enough times. It's going on 3 years. I don't know where to ask the question. So sorry for hijacking the thread! Winter is coming and after 3 years my metal skid plate is rusting out bad after 3 years trying to ask the question. Does anyone know a "bolt on" ALUMINUM skid plate that has access panels for both the filter and oil drain plug? Thanks in advance!

RCI and Heftyfabworks both I believe have what you are looking for.

Engine Skid Plate | 10-Present 4Runner – RCI Off Road


'10-'20 4Runner Upgraded Radiator/Engine Skid | Store - Hefty Fabworks

That's a long time to wait for this info.

Has anyone color matched the TRD skid plate color ????

Thanks for the info. I just got a (new to me) 2010 SR5 with really bad skid plate rust. I likely will not be heavily off roading so not sure where I could find an inexpensive replacement. The screw tip, is a great one though.

Great info. On my list of install projects

Great info. Installed skid plate yesterday, and sure enough the passenger side rear bolt would only go in about an inch. Chased the threads and was amazed how much work it needed to get it clean all the way through. Lots of material/shavings.

All good now.

Yes.

I installed a TRD plate on my 21 T4R recently, chased the threads and same as when I did my 14, lots of crap in the threads. Sprayed brake cleaner in the threads to wash out remaining debris. Also, put a little never seize on the bolts.

Great info here but I have a couple of questions first has anyone placed longer/stronger bolts from the top down and can/ how an access panel be cut in the TRD pro skid?
Mike

The first part of your question: You could place longer bolts from the top. Doing so exposes something to hang up on stuff plus possible damage to threads, then you will have to cut the nits/ bolts to remove the plate.
Second: Sure, you could cut the plate, drill holes, make a cover plate and fasten plate to to the skid.
Haven’t seen anyone do this with the TRD Plate yet.

Hey, give it a try, you may be on to something.....